mobil 1 full synthetic high mileage gasoline in diesel?

A "score of dispersants"? I guess that's not surprising if you're trying to read the tea leaves of typical PDS values and YouTube videos instead of picking an oil for a diesel engine by the diesel license or specification. You don't know the difference between viscosity and viscosity index, yet you are ranking oils by their dispersant score.
viscosity equals 0w40 number and vi equals 180 in m1 0w40 fs ecf
 
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Yeah I know those charts. That isn’t what I meant, I couldn’t understand your post or question.
What I asked equaled basically that if m1 0w40 fs ecf with hths 3.6 would suit a diesel engine?
also how come some oils have high VI of 180 such as m1 0w40 fs ecf yet some lower VI oils with a VI of 165 such as lucas tech 0w16 have a lower viscosity?
 
What I asked equaled basically that if m1 0w40 fs ecf with hths 3.6 would suit a diesel engine?
also how come some oils have high VI of 180 such as m1 0w40 fs ecf yet some lower VI oils with a VI of 165 such as lucas tech 0w16 have a lower viscosity?
Because you don't understand what viscosity index means. High VI is not always a good thing.
 
Because you don't understand what viscosity index means. High VI is not always a good thing.
I wonder which would go better with a 1990 toyota corolla 1.8 diesel
m1 0w40 fs ecf ; 40 percent PAO, 3.6 hths, 1700 pm ZDDP, usd 25 5 quart jug, VI 180
m1 15w50 fs; 10 percent PAO, VI 160, usd 25 5 quart jug
m1 10w40 high mileage; 5 percent PAO, 50 percent GTL, VI 160, usd 25 5 quart jug, hths 3.9
 
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I wonder which would go better with a 1990 toyota corolla 1.8 diesel
m1 0w40 fs ecf ; 40 percent PAO, 3.6 hths, 1700 pm ZDDP, usd 25 5 quart jug, VI 180
m1 15w50 fs; 10 percent PAO, VI 160, usd 25 5 quart jug
m1 10w40 high mileage; 5 percent PAO, 50 percent GTL, VI 160, usd 25 5 quart jug, hths 3.9
An oil of adequate HT/HS that carries a proper diesel rating for the engine.
 
An oil of adequate HT/HS that carries a proper diesel rating for the engine.
These 3 M1 oils are diesel CF rated at least if not higher and the owners manual calls for diesel CD as shown in a previous post in this thread.

General information found on the internets recommends an HTHS of 3.5 at least for diesel engine. M1 Ow40 and the M1 HM and the m1 15w50 fs comply with this; m1 15w50 having the highest HTHS of 4.5.
So all three of these would comply with and adequate HT HS and diesel rating.

For leak prevention i suppose the m1 high mileage and m1 15w50 fs would fare better than the m1 fs ecf 0w40 with VI 180.
 
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What I asked equaled basically that if m1 0w40 fs ecf with hths 3.6 would suit a diesel engine?
also how come some oils have high VI of 180 such as m1 0w40 fs ecf yet some lower VI oils with a VI of 165 such as lucas tech 0w16 have a lower viscosity?
VI (Viscosity Index) is a calculated value based on the difference between the 40C and 100C viscosities. It's designed to portray the rate of change of viscosity with temperature. Different base oils have different natural VI's, so for example Group II has a VI below 120.

To increase VI of a finished lubricant, Viscosity Index Improvers (VII) are added to the base oil blend, which increases the 100C visc, pushing it up, while having less effect on the 40C visc, changing that slope and thus increasing the VI. Years ago there was a brief period where oils with extremely high VI's were in vogue. These would be blended with extremely light base oils and with a tremendous amount of VII in them. Presently, there's a crowd on here that likes the opposite approach, oils with a low VI, and thus little VII.

A 0W-40, because it has to meet both the requirements for the 0W-xx Winter rating and the 40 grade at 100C, will have more VII in it than a 0W-16, which has a narrower spread between the Winter rating and the grade. While PAO can do a lot of work in reducing the VII requirements in an oil of this type, ultimately you are still limited by CCS and MRV so your base oil blend will likely be lighter than a 5W-40 for example (not always the case, cost cutting can change that).

If you look at Ravenol's 0W-16, it has a VI of 156, pointing to less VII than Lucas.
 
VI (Viscosity Index) is a calculated value based on the difference between the 40C and 100C viscosities. It's designed to portray the rate of change of viscosity with temperature. Different base oils have different natural VI's, so for example Group II has a VI below 120.

To increase VI of a finished lubricant, Viscosity Index Improvers (VII) are added to the base oil blend, which increases the 100C visc, pushing it up, while having less effect on the 40C visc, changing that slope and thus increasing the VI. Years ago there was a brief period where oils with extremely high VI's were in vogue. These would be blended with extremely light base oils and with a tremendous amount of VII in them. Presently, there's a crowd on here that likes the opposite approach, oils with a low VI, and thus little VII.

A 0W-40, because it has to meet both the requirements for the 0W-xx Winter rating and the 40 grade at 100C, will have more VII in it than a 0W-16, which has a narrower spread between the Winter rating and the grade. While PAO can do a lot of work in reducing the VII requirements in an oil of this type, ultimately you are still limited by CCS and MRV so your base oil blend will likely be lighter than a 5W-40 for example (not always the case, cost cutting can change that).

If you look at Ravenol's 0W-16, it has a VI of 156, pointing to less VII than Lucas.
found at wikipedia entry for base oil: "Group IV base oils have a viscosity index range of 125 - 200. Poly-alpha-olefins (PAO) oils have a higher oxidative stability in extreme temperatures, and also have exceptionally low pour points, which makes them much more suitable for use in very cold weather (as found in northern Europe), as well as in very hot weather (as in Middle East)."

Here in Nicaragua weather gets relatively hot.
 
The majority of wear does not occur at startup. MOFT is high when the oil is cold and that’s what protects the engine. Besides if I’m not mistaken the OP lives somewhere warm and in that case the winter rating and/or the base stock composition is irrelevant for startup.
This is debatable depending upon the use of the correct viscosity and lubricant additives, engine wear, and ambient temperature. If too thick of an oil is used in cold weather, without a sufficient lower viscosity range, there will be no MOFT on all the bearing surfaces until it warms up enough for the oil pump to pump it thoroughly through and around, compared to a light weight oil that will flow easier and faster at start ups so as to reach all friction surfaces immediately. There will be more metal to metal pounding at cold temperatures with a thick oil because of a lack of MOFT until it warms up enough to circulate through to protect all surfaces.
 
This is debatable depending upon the use of the correct viscosity and lubricant additives, engine wear, and ambient temperature. If too thick of an oil is used in cold weather, without a sufficient lower viscosity range, there will be no MOFT on all the bearing surfaces until it warms up enough for the oil pump to pump it thoroughly through and around, compared to a light weight oil that will flow easier and faster at start ups so as to reach all friction surfaces immediately. There will be more metal to metal pounding at cold temperatures with a thick oil because of a lack of MOFT until it warms up enough to circulate through to protect all surfaces.
No way. There is always a film in the bearing surfaces. Plus if the winter rating is appropriate for the starting temperature the oil will pump, and it will flow.
 
Mobil claims up to 70% of wear "may" occur at startup. FWIW
I would think so. I am no expert on this, which is why I read these forums, but it has been suggested here by many that if you don't drive your vehicle that much then it's better to go with a heavier weight oil (temps permitting) so that it more easily stays on the bearing services rather than a than a thin oil that runs off. If oil "always" stays on the bearing surfaces then they would never wear. This is why start ups so important, to get a sufficient amount of oil to all friction surfaces as fast as possible.

On a related note, I was reading about bypass valves on oil filters. One guy had a lifter noise but when he took off the Fram filter and put on an AC filter it went away.. He states, "I didn't change the oil or anything else (didn't even add any oil to top off). The noise never happened again, starting with that first cold crank with the new filter the noise never came back. This is a classic case of the backflow valve at the filter allowing oil to leak down from the cam and lifter galleries, which have to be refilled upon startup. A filter with a functioning backflow valve makes the problem go away...." In other words, he saying that a functioning backflow valve will prevent the oil from leaking off from the cam and lifter galleries when the motor is not running.
 
I would think so. I am no expert on this, which is why I read these forums, but it has been suggested here by many that if you don't drive your vehicle that much then it's better to go with a heavier weight oil (temps permitting) so that it more easily stays on the bearing services rather than a than a thin oil that runs off. If oil "always" stays on the bearing surfaces then they would never wear. This is why start ups so important, to get a sufficient amount of oil to all friction surfaces as fast as possible.

On a related note, I was reading about bypass valves on oil filters. One guy had a lifter noise but when he took off the Fram filter and put on an AC filter it went away.. He states, "I didn't change the oil or anything else (didn't even add any oil to top off). The noise never happened again, starting with that first cold crank with the new filter the noise never came back. This is a classic case of the backflow valve at the filter allowing oil to leak down from the cam and lifter galleries, which have to be refilled upon startup. A filter with a functioning backflow valve makes the problem go away...." In other words, he saying that a functioning backflow valve will prevent the oil from leaking off from the cam and lifter galleries when the motor is not running.
There is always wear even with sufficient MOFT.

And what does a Fram filter have to do with your other statement?
 
I have rebuilt enough to know how persistent the oil film is. Even in 20+ year old junkyard engines the film is there.
I guess you go to different junk yards then I do, but no oil on the bearings in 20* year old cars here in Arizona. Perhaps up North maybe?

Wear "even with sufficient MOFT," then the MOFT isn't sufficient. I have two Blazers with 250,000 miles on them with friend that put 600,000 miles, still running, no oil leaks, compression okay, no apparent wear. Good MOFT I guess, but where is the wear?

So you're saying Mobil is wrong?
 
Exxon Mobil says “up to” with no qualifiers. Anything can contribute to that claim, right?

And yes there is always wear regardless of the film thickness, for multiple reasons.
 
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