Mobil 1 EP vs Castrol (gold) EP

cheesepuffs2 said:
What's Mobil 1 X2?

Also if Edge basically has better cleaning properties for use in small turbo diesel engines, then why wouldn't it also be better in a Hemi 5.7?
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Mobil 1 ESP X2 0w20. It carries the same specs as edge ep 0w20 but the detergent package is different. It uses calcium instead of both calcium and magnesium like edge ep does. Its PAO/GTL/POE
 
travis8352 said:
PAOs benefit is cold flow
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So let's say we have a 0W-20 that's PAO based, and another 0W-20 that'd Group III based. Both oils meet the same API standard, but the PAO will allow for faster flow at the same temps than the Group III will, across the board at any temp? Or are they basically the same until the temperatures drop to the certain super low point, like -50 or something where PAO takes the lead?
 
cheesepuffs2 said:
Not to derail this thread, but is PAO even really a benefit these days over Group III with the advancement in ad packs?
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PAO is never a benefit, other than cold flow. It always needs helpers to work properly in a fully formulated lubricant.

Big_kahuna said:
anyone know what base oil castrol use ? group III or IV ?
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Why does it matter to you? What advantages to you expect to gain from group IV other than better cold flow at some stupid low temperatures, like -40C?
 
cheesepuffs2 said:
like -50
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Do you really want to start your vehicle at -50C?

cheesepuffs2 said:
So let's say we have a 0W-20 that's PAO based, and another 0W-20 that'd Group III based. Both oils meet the same API standard, but the PAO will allow for faster flow at the same temps than the Group III will, across the board at any temp?
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The only obligation these two oils have in respect to cold flow is to meet the 0W pumpability requirement.

cheesepuffs2 said:
What's the general rule of thumb for cold flow of PAO versus GTL? Is PAO still better?
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PAO doesn't need PPDs, Group III does, in order to achieve similar cold flow. Again, it's about pumpability. PAO will still flow like gelow where Group III will crystalize. But at those temperatures, you wouldn't want to start your vehicle anyway. It's only relevant if you live in a cold climate.
 
Rod Knock said:
Why does it matter to you? What advantages to you expect to gain from group IV other than better cold flow at some stupid low temperatures, like -40C?
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OP asks which oil brand, but I believe he is more knowledgeable than some us here including me. 🙃
 
Rod Knock said:
Do you really want to start your vehicle at -50C?


The only obligation these two oils have in respect to cold flow is to meet the 0W pumpability requirement.


PAO doesn't need PPDs, Group III does, in order to achieve similar cold flow. Again, it's about pumpability. PAO will still flow like gelow where Group III will crystalize. But at those temperatures, you wouldn't want to start your vehicle anyway. It's only relevant if you live in a cold climate.
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That's what I'm getting at is that why do we all even talk about PAO here then if it doesn't even affect us, practically speaking. I live in a cold climate but it still doesn't get below where the regular 0W standard wouldn't be enough. So PAO isn't even something I should care about then, right?
 
cheesepuffs2 said:
That's what I'm getting at is that why do we all even talk about PAO here then if it doesn't even affect us, practically speaking. I live in a cold climate but it still doesn't get below where the regular 0W standard wouldn't be enough. So PAO isn't even something I should care about then, right?
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Because thats how people get interested in oil in the first place. New people get a new vehicle and make an account or do some googling something along the lines of "is mobil 1 good for (insert new car here)??? I always used mobil 1 but just want the best for my new ride!" Then someone says "any oil that meets the spec will work. I used to use mobil 1 but its just a group 3 oil now so i just use whats cheapest! Mobil 1 will work great for you!" Then they think what the hell is group 3? So they begin to search and they find old mobil 1 PAO discussion from bitog circa 2002 and eventually find that mobil 1 switched to group 3 around 2006 and that its not a "true synthetic" anymore along with others saying no one knows. Now the quest is find out if mobil 1 is a PAO oil or not and if its not, then what is? Is amsoil? Is redline? Esters whats esters? Then they order up mobil 1 anyways because it contains some PAO depending on viscosities. The cycle repeats and will repeat forever
 
cheesepuffs2 said:
That's what I'm getting at is that why do we all even talk about PAO here then if it doesn't even affect us, practically speaking. I live in a cold climate but it still doesn't get below where the regular 0W standard wouldn't be enough. So PAO isn't even something I should care about then, right?
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People always get hung up on base oils. Something that's not talked enough about is the other goodies that go into a lubricant, besides the base oils and some basics about the additive package. Just because it's PAO doesn't mean it will keep your engine clean or protect it better against wear. On the contrary, it will bust your seals if it's not formulated properly.

travis8352 said:
Because thats how people get interested in oil in the first place. New people get a new vehicle and make an account or do some googling something along the lines of "is mobil 1 good for (insert new car here)??? I always used mobil 1 but just want the best for my new ride!" Then someone says "any oil that meets the spec will work. I used to use mobil 1 but its just a group 3 oil now so i just use whats cheapest! Mobil 1 will work great for you!" Then they think what the hell is group 3? So they begin to search and they find old mobil 1 PAO discussion from bitog circa 2002 and eventually find that mobil 1 switched to group 3 around 2006 and that its not a "true synthetic" anymore along with others saying no one knows. Now the quest is find out if mobil 1 is a PAO oil or not and if its not, then what is? Is amsoil? Is redline? Esters whats esters? Then they order up mobil 1 anyways because it contains some PAO depending on viscosities. The cycle repeats and will repeat forever
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That's a very good post and it's pretty much how it is, sadly. The bulk of us are not petrochemical engineers, so we shouldn't end up pulling our hair out over what oil to use.
 
cheesepuffs2 said:
Yeah, I used a jug of the Triple Action before I read about the change and was disappointed that it didn't have PAO anymore. Now that Mobil 1 uses GTL, why not just use Pennzoil, which right now is six dollars cheaper at Walmart? Takes the shine off of M1 for me a bit, even though I still like them overall.
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I just did the same thing, but with two quarts of the old PAO formula mixed in that I had left over. Was planning on running it 10,000 miles. Not sure what I may try next.
 
Triple action sounds like something some dishwasher soap would say

I would use whichever is cheaper but also I wouldn’t use either unless I was actually doing a 15k+ OCI. Otherwise just use the regular one.
 
wpod said:
One oil is a 5W the other is a 0W, Both are extended life oils, are you going to run the oils for extended oil change intervals? The question should be which oil would produce less wear and or keep the engine cleaner . I am positive there are differences, they are both oils by quality oil companies . I doubt you will during the ownership of your vehicle all things equal not see any difference in engine life with either of those oils. Just because the oil is a long life oil doesn't mean it will protect the engine from wear better that an oil without the long life additives. I would go out on a limb and say the regular M1 or Quakerstate oil, would have less wear. What ever oil from the majors you chose will allow engine life beyond your ownership .
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what allows oils to be dictated as "extended drain" oils?

Does it retain its viscosity/grade longer? Are the additives more stout? Does it resist exposure/oxidation better, longer?

Depending on your answer, it could contradict your questioning of use of the EP oils for the OP's situation.
 
Rod Knock said:
What's the logic behind your conclusion?
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I think his logic is...between choosing let’s say...Mobil1 AFE 0W20 (rated for 10,000 miles), or Mobil1 EP 0W20 (rated for 20,000 miles)...if you’re going to only run the oil 5,000-10,000 miles?? There isn’t much (if any) benefit of going with the Mobil1 EP, and paying the extra cost, unless you plan to extend the drain interval.

I think that’s what he’s saying.
 
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