Mobil 1 15/w50 in Ford 4.6 V8 12,706 Mile OCI

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Originally Posted By: Doktor_Bert
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Hahahhah! Awesome! I did the fronts on the M5 about a month ago
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Wife is now bugging me to do the ones on the Charger, LOL!


My rear brakes were overdue for replacement, so I decided to try and find a spray can engine enamel that would be a close match to the Glasurit 90-A-323 High Intensity Red used on the rocker stripe. Although I have plenty of the BC/CC, I don't think it would hold up well on a brake component.

After some experimentation, I found that Dupli-Color #DE1632 Chrysler Red (center) was as close as I could get.



Before:



And after:


How does it look???


Looks freakin' great!!
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Originally Posted By: Doktor_Bert
Noticed your sig...

My high school car and my first paint job - 1982

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First ticket in the Dodge - Northbound State Route 99 near Tipton, California

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Does that speeding ticket say they clocked you going 133mph?? Haha that's AWESOME!!
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133mph in a 55 has me beat. Back in the early 70's they got me for 114 in a 55 in my 70 Camaro. I was coming back from Watkins Glen on my way to Virginia. Got caught in PA - $10 ticket plus $5 court costs - total $15. And he let me go on my way, nice cop, it was 1 AM and going to jail would not have been fun. The check was in the mail to PA the next day. When I started racing my Olds with a 310 (4.030 w 3.040 crank) it used a front oil block - the Bowtie block w Weaver dry sump. The dry sump helped cure most oil problems on SBC road race cars - the 310s turned a lot more RPM than the 355s in my Camaro race car.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
No where have I ever said,written nor implied that any engine is built for a specific grade of oil.


Clevy,

I cannot recall who used the phrase "built for a 20w oil" but it has appeared a few times in these threads.

Our approach has always been to run a heavier oil. Having a dyno in-house allowed me to test many theories that others simply dispelled. When we ran heavier oils and saw no change in HP/TQ then we ran them. We generally choose our viscosity by our ambient temps; a low of about 50°F in the winter and as high as 120°F+ in the summer.

We proved this in race cars, tow vehicles, wind machines (yes we built many 391 Ford Industrial and Chrysler Industrial Hemi's) and entire fleets of police and public works vehicles with 4.6 Fords. When we were asked to take over a fleet, it was usually due to problems or failures associated with a given unit. In those applications, we found that a 15/w40 or 15/w50 worked best in our climate and subsequently, the bearing problems etc., stopped.


So in general, I defer to dyno testing when it comes to verifying a particular course of action.

I apologize if it appeared that I put 'words in your mouth.' We simply have a different approach, based largely on Dad's work with NASCAR teams in the 1960's and over 50 years of competition engine building.

Your results may vary...

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Originally Posted By: bigt61
133mph in a 55 has me beat. Back in the early 70's they got me for 114 in a 55 in my 70 Camaro. I was coming back from Watkins Glen on my way to Virginia. Got caught in PA - $10 ticket plus $5 court costs - total $15. And he let me go on my way, nice cop, it was 1 AM and going to jail would not have been fun. The check was in the mail to PA the next day. When I started racing my Olds with a 310 (4.030 w 3.040 crank) it used a front oil block - the Bowtie block w Weaver dry sump. The dry sump helped cure most oil problems on SBC road race cars - the 310s turned a lot more RPM than the 355s in my Camaro race car.


And I walked away without paying any fines...want to hear the story????
 
Originally Posted By: Doktor_Bert
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Doktor_Bert

That engine was tested with 5/w30 and hot oil pressure was exactly the same on a mechanical gauge as it was with 20/w50.

Of course a 5W-30 will have a considerably lower operational viscosity that a 20W-50. One function of a properly operating OP gauge is as a viscosity meter. If the gauge is reading the same OP at the same oil temp' and the same high engine rpm, the oil pump would appear to still be in by-pass mode on the 5W-30 oil.




One other thing....

In an engine, the pump is always 'on' so to speak, maintaining pressure against a very slow bleed through the lifters, pushrods, connecting rod and bearing clearances. It is impossible to run any oil pump without running in a bypass mode. This is how the system functions...

There is plenty of data available on this topic...


Your exactly correct. A gm ls stock pump and spring begins to bypass around 12 psi.
 
Originally Posted By: Doktor_Bert
Originally Posted By: Clevy
No where have I ever said,written nor implied that any engine is built for a specific grade of oil.


Clevy,

I cannot recall who used the phrase "built for a 20w oil" but it has appeared a few times in these threads.

Our approach has always been to run a heavier oil. Having a dyno in-house allowed me to test many theories that others simply dispelled. When we ran heavier oils and saw no change in HP/TQ then we ran them. We generally choose our viscosity by our ambient temps; a low of about 50°F in the winter and as high as 120°F+ in the summer.

We proved this in race cars, tow vehicles, wind machines (yes we built many 391 Ford Industrial and Chrysler Industrial Hemi's) and entire fleets of police and public works vehicles with 4.6 Fords. When we were asked to take over a fleet, it was usually due to problems or failures associated with a given unit. In those applications, we found that a 15/w40 or 15/w50 worked best in our climate and subsequently, the bearing problems etc., stopped.


So in general, I defer to dyno testing when it comes to verifying a particular course of action.

I apologize if it appeared that I put 'words in your mouth.' We simply have a different approach, based largely on Dad's work with NASCAR teams in the 1960's and over 50 years of competition engine building.

Your results may vary...

RHRELogo1980_zps6fc54e7e.jpg

VelsParnelliJonesTeamPatch_zps578727ab.jpg




I won't disagreee that at full throttle on a dyno that max power output would be the same regardless of the viscosity used however I know for a fact that in my experience with the 4.6 engine it was more sluggish with thicker oil.
My charger is the same way. With the prescribed 20 grade it's much more free revving at part throttle but I felt not diffences between the 20 grade and 40 grade at full throttle.


You've got one heck of a fantastic portfolio so I'm not going to argue minutia with you. I'm just stating my experience with that particular engine.
I easily ran in excess of 500+ pounds of nitrous through that 4.6 and even at 280000kms it consumed no oil between changes. My disdain for them is only dye to spitting plugs. Other than that the 4.6/5.4 is easily as durable as the windsors they replaced.
Again at full throttle I believe that on the dyno power output wouldn't be affected but at part throttle I know my car was sluggish. Not that it bothered me though. Because of how I drove it I was/am a thicker is better guy and I feel a person should make a choice based on how the vehicle is driven as well as ambient temps,which is why my charger gets a 40 grade in the summer,because I beat on it.
I'm slowly coming around though as far as thinner oils are concerned. Obviously for engines that aren't pushed to the limit thinner grades are more than adequate,but I'm not sedate when behind the wheel. I'm not an animal either,well unless I've got 3 lanes and no cops,then my charger stretches it's legs.
You've got a fantastic shop. I'd love to hang out just to see what comes in.

I appreciate the apology though it's not required. We are gear heads and not that sensitive.

Post more pics please.
 
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Originally Posted By: Clevy
I won't disagreee that at full throttle on a dyno that max power output would be the same regardless of the viscosity used however I know for a fact that in my experience with the 4.6 engine it was more sluggish with thicker oil.

My charger is the same way. With the prescribed 20 grade it's much more free revving at part throttle but I felt not diffences between the 20 grade and 40 grade at full throttle...


That's an amazing phenomenon!!!!

Just as an FYI, we have dyno'd some 5.4's and 4.6's both Supercharged as well as 2JZ Toyotas making over 1,000 RWHP and we never saw a measurable gain anywhere with a thinner oil, all the way across the RPM spectrum. Perhaps our hot climate has the most to do with that????

Note the oil recommendation on the GT40 Oil Tank in the photo below: 5/w50 Full Synthetic

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Originally Posted By: Clevy
I appreciate the apology though it's not required. We are gear heads and not that sensitive. Post more pics please.


A healthy debate shares knowledge!!!!

I agree with you. Dad always told me this, "Son, when results trump your theory, believe results and adjust theory..." I am so puzzled by your account of 4.6 'sluggishness,' but I, without a doubt, believe you 100% and then some....

We did have a Mustang Terminator that knocked and some shops diagnosed it as a rod bearing. The [censored] thin was a quart over full on oil and the pistons were 'slapping' the oil!!!!!

I was shocked by that revelation!!!!!
 
The 1974 Cub Scout's Pinewood Derby Car that Dad and I carved from a solid block of wood. We took the 'Best Workmanship' trophy.

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The hard rubber tire/wheel literally rotted away over the years. Later Pinewood Derby cars had hard plastic wheel/tire assemblies.

Sure would like to find 5 of them...we used a spare mounted on the right side of the car to make the minimum weight limit.

Dad got me started in hot rodding in 1968 - handing him tools in the shop in Torrance...
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I'm slowly coming around though as far as thinner oils are concerned. Obviously for engines that aren't pushed to the limit thinner grades are more than adequate,but I'm not sedate when behind the wheel. I'm not an animal either,well unless I've got 3 lanes and no cops,then my charger stretches it's legs....


Me too in some respects. I think that here in our area, 5/w50 is a great all season formulation...FWIW

I drive this Mustang pretty hard sometimes...lot's of hot idling with the A/C on too.
 
Thanks, Ledslinger...

It's not easy to keep a car looking nice...Here is a pic with the paint about 8 months old, driven everyday...

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Old thread, but.....I will say this- the non-PI 4.6 crown vics got over 200K easy in police service. Some agencies used 15w-40 in them. I drove them with 15w-40 and with 5w-30, and they ran better with 5w-30. It is nonsensical to say there is no performance advantage to lighter oil. The oil is pumped by the oil pump. Thicker oil is harder to pump. FACT. I have seen 15w-40 in 15 degree weather be almost impossible to pump out of a drum by hand-pump. I will also say this, the 2V modular engine does not really care what grade of oil you run in it that I can tell. I have run everything from 5w30 to 10w30 to 15w40 in them, and they all lasted a LONG time. Just my 2 cents.
 
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