Mobil 1 10/40 racing oil vs Mobil 1 20/50 V twin ?

ZeeOSix

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Mercy Zee when is the last time you looked 1950??? because once our current oils reache operating temperature analysis shows no significant differences in WEAR between the grades...
LoL, what "analysis"? Basic Blackstone UOAs aren't the real tool for such conclusions.

Go read some controlled testing research papers that use sophisticated test methods. You do realize that there is a direct correlation between viscosity, MOFT and wear. More MOFT gives better wear protection headroom, that's basic Tribology.
 

daz

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LOL. I shoulda known better then to ask an oil question ! Well, gonna try 10w40 this time. My riding temps are 99% between 75 and 90 degrees so i guess it shouldn't matter and i may as well see how the bike runs on it and the MPG. Might be worth it. If not, back to V twin next time. Plus the 10w at startup sounds like it might be a worthy difference.
 

daz

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Well, i did the 4T racing 10w40 and took it for about a 30 mile ride ending in 97 degrees, so i assume it was a degree or 3 cooler when i started. I'll have to wait to see how my MPG is but it ran nice and quiet and throttle felt a tad more responsive and quicker when overtaking. So far so good. Certainly not huge difference of course but unless over time i find the engine noisier or something i'll probably stick with it, especially if i notice a bit better MPG.
 
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I did... and what I found supports the 40 over the 50 because start up before warm up is where a large part of an engine’s wear occurs... advantage free flowing 40... Once the oil reaches operating temperature analysis shows no significant differences in WEAR between the grades...

Quote Yamaha

Yamalube 5W30 is designed from synthetic and mineral base stocks to provide the best
extreme cold-weather performance possible for all Yamaha Snowmobiles.

Gives extra protection during the critical cold-start period where a
large part of an engine’s wear could occur.
Mercy, snowmobile info? LOL Supposedly irrelevant at times, yet an argument clincher here, lol All over the map, as usual...
 
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LoL, what "analysis"? Basic Blackstone UOAs aren't the real tool for such conclusions.

Go read some controlled testing research papers that use sophisticated test methods. You do realize that there is a direct correlation between viscosity, MOFT and wear. More MOFT gives better wear protection headroom, that's basic Tribology.
 
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I'm in the 10W-40 camp too. That's a really robust oil and will provide all the protection any oil can for your engine.

One thing to note, UOA results really don't track engine wear. It's nice to believe that UOA results indicate "wear metals", but they don't correspond to what you are thinking. I can cite example after example. Fe (iron) can come from a large number of sources, including some very unlikely places (such as an oil pump bypass valve or a high pressure fuel pump). High Fe does not indicate your cylinder is wearing faster. It only indicates that a tiny fraction of microscopic Fe is suspended in the oil.

I've seen small block Chevy engines with stupidly high Fe numbers and near zero wear at 350,000 miles, using M1 oils.

UOA is a great tool for trends. It is not useful to compare wear rates.
 
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I have used both of the oils in the title of this thread and both perform superb in a shared sump engine for 5,000 mi oil change intervals. There are three or four motorcycle used oil analysis threads that I have posted with these oils compared.
 

ELS

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Either one is fine.

I personally prefer the 15w50 Mobil One in motorcycles. I buy the 5 quart jugs and it's a lot cheaper per quart.
 
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Wow so much info my head just exploded. Let me give you my redneck version without using words i have no idea what they mean. I have been riding for over 45 years and have had many different model bikes. My take on this whole oil debate is if you run a good quality oil and the correct weight the manufactor calls for and change it regularly you’re not going to have any problems. I have never had an oil related failure in any bike ive ever had. By the way i run Mobil 1 Racing 10W/40 full synthetic in my 2008 Kawasaki ZX14 with 80,000 miles and have had 0 issues and i live in Texas where it’s HOT.
 
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Does a change of grade = a change of wear???

Blackstone's 35 years worth of racing and street motorcycle oil
analysis shows no significant differences in WEAR between the grades
or brands... potentially the 40 or 50 motorcycle specific oils are the right
stuff to meet and exceed your mileage expectations... View attachment 113231
15 years ago, those base oils used to have a 100 degree higher flash point. , like 497 to 518 degrees

Mobil 1 has done a great job profit wise
 
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I'm in the 10W-40 camp too. That's a really robust oil and will provide all the protection any oil can for your engine.

One thing to note, UOA results really don't track engine wear. It's nice to believe that UOA results indicate "wear metals", but they don't correspond to what you are thinking. I can cite example after example. Fe (iron) can come from a large number of sources, including some very unlikely places (such as an oil pump bypass valve or a high pressure fuel pump). High Fe does not indicate your cylinder is wearing faster. It only indicates that a tiny fraction of microscopic Fe is suspended in the oil.

I've seen small block Chevy engines with stupidly high Fe numbers and near zero wear at 350,000 miles, using M1 oils.

UOA is a great tool for trends. It is not useful to compare wear rates.
A $30 UOA is a fantastic bargain, with the limitations you stated.

A relative used to test at a facility with basically unlimited funding... with high end GC Mass Spec and HPLC. Wear from piston rings and/or cylinders could usually be narrowed down by the exact metallurgic composition of the metal alloys. But you're not going to get that without (a. sampling those metals, and b.) spending stupid money on a full up chemistry lab, with ongoing calibrations and highly trained staff.
 
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Wow so much info my head just exploded. Let me give you my redneck version without using words i have no idea what they mean. I have been riding for over 45 years and have had many different model bikes. My take on this whole oil debate is if you run a good quality oil and the correct weight the manufactor calls for and change it regularly you’re not going to have any problems. I have never had an oil related failure in any bike ive ever had. By the way i run Mobil 1 Racing 10W/40 full synthetic in my 2008 Kawasaki ZX14 with 80,000 miles and have had 0 issues and i live in Texas where it’s HOT.
The voice of reason and common sense.

However, that's not how we do it, here are BITOG.
 
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The voice of reason and common sense.

However, that's not how we do it, here are BITOG.

True...

No shortage of riders who claim reason and common sense but BITOG is
home to real scientist who employ the Scientific Method which is the
real process of objectively establishing facts through testing and
experimentation. The basic process involves making an observation,
forming a hypothesis, making a prediction, conducting an experiment
and finally analyzing the results.

scimethod1-jpg.98794
 

ZeeOSix

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This part is done with a sensor and an analyzing computer, called the left foot and the brain. Some people have better sensors and analzing computers than others. 😄

1669677705433.jpg
 
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True...

No shortage of riders who claim reason and common sense but BITOG is
home to real scientist who employ the Scientific Method which is the
real process of objectively establishing facts through testing and
experimentation. The basic process involves making an observation,
forming a hypothesis, making a prediction, conducting an experiment
and finally analyzing the results.

scimethod1-jpg.98794
Pretty rich give the source, lol
 

ZeeOSix

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It only takes half a brain to realize they are easily fooled...
LoL ... maybe the unexperienced that are not mind melded with their machines. Some people are too numb to sense and realize much in changes, and nobody has ever claimed that everyone has the same level of senses going on.
 
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I have found Mobil 20w50 holds up better for shift quality in my Victory Cross Country. Bikes are all very different in how hard they are on oil. Whether it's because of it's design, how the bike is ridden or ambient temps it's ridden in. My bike happens to be somewhat hard on oil and looses shift quality quickly on 10w40 but with 20w50 it goes quite a bit longer. My manual specs 20w40 semi-syn or 10w60 synthetic FWIW.
 
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