Mobil 1 0w20 or TGMO 0w20?

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Next OCI in the Accord will be at 120k. I was planning on running TGMO again but it can be pricey. So I thought about trying Mobil 1 0w20, then I checked out some VOA,s of it and saw some really low additives compaired to every other oil I've seen. Low calcium for cleaning, and low zinc and phosphorus for wear. What say you? Safe to use for extreme short tripping or stick with TGMO with higher levels of additives? Here is the VOA on Mobil 1 0w20.....
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2243763
 
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Quaker State Advanced Durability 5W-20

M1 will work well... tig1 loves it and 2010_FX4 has ran it was great results!
 
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Originally Posted By: gregk24
Next OCI in the Accord will be at 120k. I was planning on running TGMO again but it can be pricey. So I thought about trying Mobil 1 0w20, then I checked out some VOA,s of it and saw some really low additives compaired to every other oil I've seen. Low calcium for cleaning, and low zinc and phosphorus for wear. What say you? Safe to use for extreme short tripping or stick with TGMO with higher levels of additives? Here is the VOA on Mobil 1 0w20.....
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2243763


Honestly I wouldn't base a $25 VOA on anything. There's a lot to be said about things a simple VOA can't detect, which has been discussed several times on Bitog over the years. Look how well Mobil 1 0w20 does in actual UOA reports. JMO
 
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Just use your favorite dino. I have an extreme short tripper too and theres nothing wrong with Pennzoil Conventional or similar. I'm using it for sub-two mile trips in zero degree mornings right now. It'll be just fine for your mild Florida mornings and I wouldn't worry about the add pack. Today's conventionals are excellent.
 
Tenderloin just posted about Pennzoil platinum with bosch filter for $15 after MIR from Oreillys if you want a synthetic oil
 
Unless you are planning to run either of them until 10K or more, you should be looking at another choice, but I digress.

If I had to choose between the two, it would be M1 hands down. Why? Two reasons--price and availability. Both will have your engine lasting longer than you want to keep the car, but M1 can do all that TGMO can for less cost. Why spend more when there is no need to do so?
 
Valvoline always showed 'weak' additive packages and yet it shows great used oil analysis...in other words there is more to an oil than additives.

PS: If I had a vehicle that spec'd 0w20 I'd probably run NAPA syn. (Valvoline) since it's regularly on sale for $3.49 a quart.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Next OCI in the Accord will be at 120k. I was planning on running TGMO again but it can be pricey. So I thought about trying Mobil 1 0w20, then I checked out some VOA,s of it and saw some really low additives compaired to every other oil I've seen. Low calcium for cleaning, and low zinc and phosphorus for wear. What say you? Safe to use for extreme short tripping or stick with TGMO with higher levels of additives? Here is the VOA on Mobil 1 0w20.....
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2243763


Honestly I wouldn't base a $25 VOA on anything. There's a lot to be said about things a simple VOA can't detect, which has been discussed several times on Bitog over the years. Look how well Mobil 1 0w20 does in actual UOA reports. JMO


Exactly.
I'm no Mobil fan but I've gotta admit they make a great product.
And a voa doesn't tell the whole story. There's organic adds it can't see.
If you aren't gonna run it out to 10k buy a conventional. It will be more than you need for a short interval.
 
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I am sure TGMO 0-20 is a fine oil. Afterall it's made by XM. But Mobil 1 0w20 is an outstanding oil as well. It has performed very well in both of my Duratechs. It doesn't get as hot in Florida as it does here in Illinois, so have no fear, Mobil 1 0w20 will hold up very well in the 90 F temps you get.
 
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Greg, you live in FL and change your oil for fun when you get bored. You could put SuperTec 20W-50 in that beast and never wear it out. Just buy what's easy and cheap, save your money for more important things - like food.
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Greg, you live in FL and change your oil for fun when you get bored. You could put SuperTec 20W-50 in that beast and never wear it out. Just buy what's easy and cheap, save your money for more important things - like food.


Im working on extending my OCI, this one will be around 5K miles which is LONG for me. Thats 5K worth of super short trips to and from work and around town. If I went conventional is would be Pennzoil conventional, which I might try out is the summer, might. Also, I thought Zinc was needed for the cam lobes and valve train, which Mobil 1 does not have much of. Many others have stated that the "wear" section of the UOA isnt an accurate indication of true engine wear anyway, so how do you know if its actually doing a good job at protecting? Sure the oil might hold up but who knows how well it protected...we'll see. I want to give Mobil 1 0w20 a shot, really do, the low add pack on paper is whats holding me back.
 
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Originally Posted By: bigt61
Greg, you live in FL and change your oil for fun when you get bored. You could put SuperTec 20W-50 in that beast and never wear it out. Just buy what's easy and cheap, save your money for more important things - like food.


Lol i agree I spend most of my money on food, everything else I look for deals
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Greg, you live in FL and change your oil for fun when you get bored. You could put SuperTec 20W-50 in that beast and never wear it out. Just buy what's easy and cheap, save your money for more important things - like food.


Im working on extending my OCI, this one will be around 5K miles which is LONG for me. Thats 5K worth of super short trips to and from work and around town. If I went conventional is would be Pennzoil conventional, which I might try out is the summer, might. Also, I thought Zinc was needed for the cam lobes and valve train, which Mobil 1 does not have much of. Many others have stated that the "wear" section of the UOA isnt an accurate indication of true engine wear anyway, so how do you know if its actually doing a good job at protecting? Sure the oil might hold up but who knows how well it protected...we'll see. I want to give Mobil 1 0w20 a shot, really do, the low add pack on paper is whats holding me back.


It's an Accord LX - not exactly a high stress engine where lack of any additive in a modern oil would be a concern unless you're trying to stretch your intervals past 15k. Tig goes 10k on his Fords using Mobil 1 0W-20 and I bet he has a bunch of short trips in there - in a much colder location than where you are. Does your engine even fully cool off between your trips? Likely the Pennzoil Conventional 5w20 that PQIA just tested would be all you need year round. Even at 5000 mile OCI, the actual money saved is chump change. But you could afford a steak every now and then.
 
TGMO is the ideal lubricant for extremely short trip like yours.
If cost is the concern take note that Toyota is supplying TGMO 0W-20 in bulk to it's dealers.
See if that is the case with your local Toyota or Lexus dealer and try and negotiate a deal on filling up a couple of 5 qt jugs for you. Some members have gotten an incredible that way, at least 20% off.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
TGMO is the ideal lubricant for extremely short trip like yours.
If cost is the concern take note that Toyota is supplying TGMO 0W-20 in bulk to it's dealers.
See if that is the case with your local Toyota or Lexus dealer and try and negotiate a deal on filling up a couple of 5 qt jugs for you. Some members have gotten an incredible that way, at least 20% off.


Ideal because of the VI?
 
Ideal because it is simply so much lighter than most other 0W-20s with 2 or 3 exceptions on start-up.
Yes it's 216 V.I. is an indication of that as it's KV40 spec' of 37.4cSt. Mobil 1 0W-20 by comparison has a 173 V.I. and a KV40 of 45.8cSt.
 
In Florida with short drain intervals?
You could use whatever conventional 5W-20 you can find on sale and call it a day.
I probably wouldn't, but that's just me.
If you want a 0W-20 synthetic with a VI of around 175, Mobil 1, Quaker State Ultimate Durability and Pennzoil Platinum are all good choices.
All have been shown to hold up well in used oil analysis and used oil analysis are all about how an oil holds up in a given engine as it's been used.
May or may not tell you much about wear, but any of these oils will show low wear numbers in a used oil analysis.
If you want a higher VI oil, it's pretty common to see TGMO 0W-20 for around the same price, although you'd have to look a little harder than you would for Quaker State Ultimate Durability, PP or M1 on the shelf at Walmart.
Your Honda engine isn't all that picky about oil anyway.
It would likely exceed 200K in your use with 7.5K drains on any oil.
Instead of spending money on oil, maybe you should do three OCIs of an oil you'd like to use and then used oil analysis it just to see how it looks.
You could adjust drain intervals from there.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Ideal because it is simply so much lighter than most other 0W-20s with 2 or 3 exceptions on start-up.
Yes it's 216 V.I. is an indication of that as it's KV40 spec' of 37.4cSt. Mobil 1 0W-20 by comparison has a 173 V.I. and a KV40 of 45.8cSt.

And a lighter oil in a climate like Florida helps how? I would be willing to bet most anything that two engines (one with TGMO and one with Mobil 1) would not have any appreciable difference in longevity provided they were both maintained accordingly. The only difference would be the cost savings of Mobil 1 over TGMO. I am not a Mobil 1 fanboy by any stretch of the imagination, but you would need to quantify what TGMO brings to the table that Mobil 1 cannot to give me a justification to accept that TGMO is somehow "better" in his application. Like others have posted a conventional would work just fine much less a synthetic...
 
Caterham makes a perfectly valid point in that any oil is too thick at startup at any ambient temperature you'll find on this planet.
You make a valid point as well in that it's doubtfull that the OP will notice any difference in engine life either way.
It's also not as though the OP is operating a particularly demanding engine.
At the end of the day, the OP can choose the theoretical best, something pretty good in between or the cheapest.
His Accord will likely be retired with a reasonably healthy engine whichever option he selects.
You can always find TGMO for the same bucks as M1 if you look, incidentally, or at least I always can, although I'm using the higher moly HGMO API SM.
 
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