MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION OIL QUESTION?

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Wow the MOTUL is pricy. Thought about mixing the 10W-30 with the 15W-50. I need to do some searches to see if mixing will upset the chemistry. I did not think that you could do that. I was even under the impression that additives sometimes mess with the chemistry.

BTW I was wrong about the Max life Valovline SYN. it is not GF-3.
 
Mobil techs consider it fine to mix different weights of Mobil 1. I however would not recommend mixing 5w-40 Truck & SUV with anything because of its' unique chemistry.
Mobil tech line: 1 800 662-4525
 
All this engine needs is what it calls for- M1 10w-30. M1 SUV IMO, is not a good choice for this engine. Smaller engines do better on the 30wt oils. I know when I used D1 in my 1.8L Toyo, it felt sluggish.
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M1 10w-30 is their best grade on the shelf.
 
I agree with busters' post. If the factory recomends 10w30 synthetic (M1?) then that's what the engineers prefer. Too much self appointed experts saying too thick or too thin without ANY data to back up the statement. Go with your manufactures recomendation (owner manual is your unbiased friend)
 
I think mobil1 10w-30 will do fine. No one has mentioned Mobil1 0w-40 which is A3 rated, as is Castrol 0w-30 GC if you really need that rating.

Run an interval on mobil1 10w-30 and have it sampled at 3000 miles and then go from there. The Mobil1 10w-30 worked quite well on my turbo motor as per my UOA, but I did dump in one quart of Redline 10w-30 as a brew mixture.
 
quote:

Too much self appointed experts saying too thick or too thin without ANY data to back up the statement. Go with your manufactures recomendation (owner manual is your unbiased friend)

Totally agree.
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buster said:
quote:

I know when I used D1 in my 1.8L Toyo, it felt sluggish. M1 10w-30 is their best grade on the shelf. [/QUOTE ]

Buster, you're actually trying to equate a 1.8L Toyo to a high performance turbo engine ran in high ambient temperatures? Are you kidding?
And maybe you can explain your scientific method for proving that 10w-30 is Mobils best weight of oil.

Eddie said:
If the factory recomends 10w30 synthetic (M1?) then that's what the engineers prefer. Too much self appointed experts saying too thick or too thin without ANY data to back up the statement. Go with your manufactures recomendation (owner manual is your unbiased friend)

Eddie, I highly doubt the factory engineers ran consecutive simulated engine tests with different weights of synthetic oil to find which provided the best overall protection (lowest wear of all internal moving components under all possible operating conditions). I think simply the 10w-30 being of a relatively thin weight helped the car/company meet CAFE standards. I personally would prefer a little more film thickness with a turbo engine; especially in desert heat under hard driving conditions; that's all. That's why I thought A 50-50 mix of M1 10w-30 & 15w-50 might be a good idea; especially with the 15w-50 having more anti-wear additives.
True, I don't have any data to prove I'm right just like you don't have any data to prove I'm wrong. I'm just stating my opinion based on gut feel.
And I never claimed to be an expert!



I stole this from another post; I beleive the info was provided by MolaKule.

quote:

What vicosity would be required at 100C (212F), 5.25 cSt SAE 5-20

125C (257F), 5.25 cSt SAE 30


150C (302F) respectively? 5.25 cSt SAE 40


The above are considered minimum viscosities at the temperature specified as per an SAE/GM paper on minimum lubricant films in engines.


Notice it says MINIMUM lubricant film. I personally rather not be on the low end of the viscosity range. 5.25 cSt seems awfully thin.

Steve

Edit: somehow my quote bars got messed up.

[ June 27, 2004, 04:15 PM: Message edited by: 69 Riv GS ]
 
I would run Mobil 1 10W-30 in this one. There are many reasons Mitsu recommended this, that aren't fuel economy related.

More viscosity won't help here. There are other 10W-30 that meet spec., but I'd go with the M1 for warranty.

A3 isn't better than A5, just thicker initially, at least, that's all.
 
quote:

Buster, you're actually trying to equate a 1.8L Toyo to a high performance turbo engine ran in high ambient temperatures? Are you kidding?
And maybe you can explain your scientific method for proving that 10w-30 is Mobils best weight of oil.

69 Riv, I understand the Evo is a high performance engine, but it's still a 4banger and I still think a 10w-30 is the best choice, period. The manual calls for it and it's obviously been tested for that viscosity. Delvac 1 for what ever reason made my car slower. It might not have the friction modifieing abilities as a gas engine oil. This has been talked about before. Scientific proof is no where to be found on here. M1 10w-30 has had the reputation of being the most shear stable as it uses no VII. Show me your scientific proof it needs anything other then a 10w-30. I think I'm done arguing the viscosity debate. It's really getting old now and most have already made up their mind.
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[ June 27, 2004, 06:10 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
You want the engine and turbo to run as cool as possible - the way to do that is with a low viscosity synthetic. I'd personally run the Amsoil Series 2000, 0w-30 in this application. There are several large Amsoil dealers in the Lancaster/Palmdale area....

If you want to run something else, the Mobil 1, 10w-30, Redline 10w-30 or Royal Purple 10w-30 - available at NAPA stores - should all work fine.

I would not run a 5w-40 or 10w-40 under these conditions, as it will simply make the engine run hotter ....

Tooslick
www.lubedealer.com/Dixie_Synthetics
 
quote:

Originally posted by zmeli:
I am new to this board. I bought a Turbo car and the manual says to use fully synthetic 10w-30wt. I live in the desert and have always used M1 15w-50wt in hondas in the past with good results. I am tempted to use the 15w-15wt in this car after break in. or maybe use another brand of oil. not to sure about M1 10w-30wt. any suggestions?

Most EVO owners in Singapore(hot) use very thick oil like 50 weight engine oils... Get Mobil 1 5W50!
 
quote:

Originally posted by Drew99GT:
Just be sure and stay in vacuum for the last couple minutes of every drive, especially if you've been boosting hard prior. That way, you'll cool of the turbo and not cook the oil when you shut down.

Or Turbo timer.
(Mine is set at 3 minutes, in my S13 with SR20DET running 14 PSI.)

Fred..
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going off on a tangent here,
but a friend just picked up a lancer evolution, silver, with all the bells and whistles. He's already got a boost guage mounted on the steering column- car's less than a month old. He told me last weekend that mitsu. is black flagging people they catch at any type of racing event with this car and voiding their warranty. FYI for you if you've hadn't heard yet.

my understanding for the reason to use a lower viscosity oil (ie 30wt not 40 or 50) in a turbo car is to reduce turbo lag. Other than that, I don't think you'll gain anything by going to a 40 or 50wt oil in terms of wear.
What are the specifics or differences of ratings SL vs. GF-3 vs ACEA?
 
After reading all the different replys. I would like to let you know what I have found out.

I finally got two oil companys to admit that the GF-3 oils are geared for fuel economy and not maximum protection. Motul and Torco.

Both of these companys make motorcycle oils and told me they are restricted by the GF-3 EPA regs. Torco told me to use their 10w-40. Motul told me my car required their most expensive Ester 300v oil.

I did a search on a EVO club site and discovered that the EVO runs some high oil temps up to 280 Deg/f when pushed hard. A UOA at 2500 miles with M1 10w-30 came back with very high oxidation indicating that the oil overheated. a non A3 rated oil cooks at 280 deg/f.

I stumbled accross a EVO club ITALY site and they suggested the following oils,

Castrol RS 10w-60
Mobil 1 Tri-synthetic 15w-50
Motul 300v Competition 10w-50
Shell Super Competition 25W-60
Shell Helix Ultra- Racing 10w-60
Valvoline SynPower 5w-40 or 20w-50

Wow thick stuff. I really need to learn about oil vis/heat relationships and Turbo chargers. I know that you should choose the lightest oil possible but cant seem to stomach a 10w-30 unless it is very good oil. my over the counter or easily obtainable (in the U.S) options are

1 Royal purple $5.99
2. Torco $4.75
3. Redline $7.50
4. Amsoil ?
5. Mobil 1 $4.00 (5 qt jug)
6. Valvoline SynPower. $4.75

My question is are the above oils better than the M1 in a 10w-30. When and how do I build a case to step up to a 5w-40, 10w-40.

I am sending my oil off to Blackstone labs first. then getting a oil temp guage.

The Torco seems like a great deal if it is as good as Red line. Dont know much about Royal Purple. They stock it at Pep Boys now.
 
quote:

Originally posted by zmeli:

I stumbled accross a EVO club ITALY site and they suggested the following oils,

Castrol RS 10w-60
Mobil 1 Tri-synthetic 15w-50
Motul 300v Competition 10w-50
Shell Super Competition 25W-60
Shell Helix Ultra- Racing 10w-60
Valvoline SynPower 5w-40 or 20w-50


These are old spec grades. There is no 300v 10w-50, it is a 15w-50. The grades speced above are SJ rating as well.
 
quote:

I finally got two oil companys to admit that the GF-3 oils are geared for fuel economy and not maximum protection. Motul and Torco.

They provide good protection for daily drivers. There are other ways around ZDDP as we've seen with many good oils on here such as M1/GC/MC. For your car though, an oil such as Amsoil 0w-30, Mobil 1 R 0w-30 and Redline 5w-30 would be your best bet. These oils are loaded with ZDDP and would provide the best protection and flow of all the oils out their. They have added levels of ZDDP for racing if need be. You should not run a 50wt oil in that car. If you read some of the testements on Amsoil/Mobil 1's webpage, you'll see people using 0w-30 oils pushing 600 + HP. I think the highest I'd go in that car is with a 5w-40. Mobil, Amsoil and Redline all make good 5w-40 oils. I still think though that Mobil 1 10w-30 or Amsoil ATM 10w-30 are excellent choices.

[ July 04, 2004, 02:22 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
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