Maybe I’ll switch it up next oil change. If it looks this bad again (or worse) I may trade it while it still has good resale value. Time will tell.
Metal in oil at 25k - 2023 Tacoma
- Thread starter 23tacoma
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There's probably more in the bottom of the oil sump.
That's just what got sucked up by the oil pump.
I personally wouldn’t lose sleep over that with 25k on the clock. Try a different filter, maybe a shorter OCI for a change or two and see how things look.
That is a good idea. Make it some other poor saps problem.
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- Jan 20, 2025
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I’m not familiar as to how this site/forum works but I have a 2023 Tacoma with less than 10,000 miles and it has fine metal slivers on the dipstick when you check the oil. The oil has been changed twice and the dealer AND Toyota is trying to convince me that it’s normal. I do not believe it one bit. To make matters worse this is my 2nd 2023 Tacoma that has done this. The 1st one got a lot worse by 6,000 miles as it was having chunks on the dipstick and using oil at that time. I traded it off and got the 2nd one as I was fighting cancer and I needed a vehicle and I didn’t feel like arguing.
Any advice or maybe we need to get a class action lawsuit started if there are enough of us out there.
Not that it would necessarily force Toyota to take action, I would at a minimum get a oil analysis done to at least have some data in hand and not opinions and go from there.
As to a class action lawsuit, that would be a years down the road thing if at all.
I would take a look at the oil and filter yourself next time you need to do a change. Also, get an oil analysis. The shavings you’re talking about on the dipstick may be from the dipstick scraping the sides of the tube as you remove and replace it to check your oil level. Do you happen to have any pictures of the metal shavings?
Just wanted to update anyone who may be interested:
I ran new oil in my truck for about 4200 miles (25k-29.2k) before changing it again. I sent some off to blackstone for analysis and took a close look at the filter media and what was at the bottom of the drain pan.
I found no larger chunks of metal, but my glitter problem persists. I noticed that the oil drained from the filter housing was more glittery than the rest of the oil (makes sense because the filter was doing its job and removing it from circulation). Analysis showed elevated Iron. I did not test this sample with a magnet but I DID test the oil I originally posted about and nothing stuck. I really don’t like going to the dealer but I’m going to call and bring this up. Hopefully things work out.
I ran new oil in my truck for about 4200 miles (25k-29.2k) before changing it again. I sent some off to blackstone for analysis and took a close look at the filter media and what was at the bottom of the drain pan.
I found no larger chunks of metal, but my glitter problem persists. I noticed that the oil drained from the filter housing was more glittery than the rest of the oil (makes sense because the filter was doing its job and removing it from circulation). Analysis showed elevated Iron. I did not test this sample with a magnet but I DID test the oil I originally posted about and nothing stuck. I really don’t like going to the dealer but I’m going to call and bring this up. Hopefully things work out.
Surprised nobody had any comments on your updated results. Do you still the vehicle ?
What filter are you using? Visible glitter should be filtered out. If it’s not, and the filter is a good one, it means the glitter is being generated faster than the oil filter can remove.
Switch to finer filtration like an Ultra or similar and bump way up in viscosity, I’d consider 15w50 m1. If you don’t see any improvement after that, I’d consider bailing on the truck.
Add Ceratec or Moly (swepco 502 or Liqui Moly MOS2). Or Toyota motor oil assuming Moly is still high in the blend (see your first factory fill uoa - Moly at 620) and higher viscosity as noted by several.
If you search my UOA posts you can see the bump in boron and moly from the ceratec and swepco in a couple UOAs where I used it in my vehicles.
Boutique oil like Redline, Gibbs, HPL maybe, but may not have factory recommended API approval - not sure.
If you search my UOA posts you can see the bump in boron and moly from the ceratec and swepco in a couple UOAs where I used it in my vehicles.
Boutique oil like Redline, Gibbs, HPL maybe, but may not have factory recommended API approval - not sure.
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This isn’t going to fix anything, but would definitely give the dealer an easy street to blaming it on the additive.
A bump in moly and boron isn’t going to do squat to stop particle generation; additional film thickness may (but still doubtful). OP would be better to try M1 FS 0w40 or other fully-formulated oil in a heavier grade than creating a witches’ brew with various unapproved, uncertified additives.
Except the glitter started b4 the additive - already documented by OP. Ceratec used boron b4 it was being mixed into the very oils we buy today. Albeit at a lower level in the SN to SP off the shelf brands. It’s my understanding it forms a protective barrier reducing wear. Moly - same concept which is why I assume it’s in Toyota branded oil by Mobil.
But, I don’t disagree with the concept of pre blended boutique or Mobil oil with stronger ad packs already formulated. DT40 is one such example for the Porsche 996 - developed in consultation with FlatSix and Lake Speed Jr at the time working for Gibbs. Look at the UOAs of DT40 vs Mobil 1 0w40 to compare ad pack and particularly ZDDP for known 996 wear issues. The new mobil 1 5w50 supercar has high levels of protection. Not sure 0w40 mobil 1 is as good given the amount of glitter in his oil. But, couldn’t hurt to try it.
And the OP had a tuned engine right? So, maybe needs additional additives. Not an off the shelf SP with lower levels of everything including ZDDP.
A knee slapper for sure…
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Oil or additional witchcraft can't fix a flaw .
Agree, but may slow wear. If it’s a defect then Toyota should replace the engine. Just difficult to get that type of fix until a lot of engines start blowing. And a tuned engine won’t be a good test case to run up the chain in Toyota for that replacement engine,
The 996 has intermediate shaft issues and bore scoring, among other failure modes documented by FlatSix and other good rebuild shops. Class action ultimately helped some owners. Porsche tried multiple redesigns over time and finally did away with IMS in 2009MY and later.
FlatSix designed new parts and procedures to replace the IMS and worked with Joe Gibbs in testing formulations of DT40 for engine/bore scoring wear issues iirc.
I have no doubt that my 996 might get bore scoring eventually due to design issues. But, I will use DT40, Mobil 5w50, and used Ceratec and Swepco products b4 these were available to get as much use b4 a $15,000 to $25,000 engine rebuild. And my IMS was replaced years ago with the IMS Solution. So, not worried about blown engine from failing IMS and its ball bearings.
Here is a little more background on DT40 development. I’m sure this will make sense and is laid out in a very articulate manner by Charles Navaro of LN Engineering who worked closely with Lake Speed Jr @ Gibbs, and Jake Raby of FlatSix (and likely still does on many engine development issues).
https://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
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DT40 turned out so great that LSJr ended up running an off-the-shelf Pennzoil in his 996, right? Boron doesn’t have any limits in API standards, so there goes your “less capable” argument for oils that choose to use less of it.
M1 0w40 carries more actual certifications and manufacturers’ approvals than literally any other single oil I’m aware of. It’s laughable to think it wouldn’t be an upgrade in protection on many levels.
Also, you do realize that because the 0w40 carries all those manufacturer certifications and still meets or exceeds the requirements of API SP, that it’s not the metallic additives that are holding back the performance of API SP?
It’s a simple, undeniable fact that M1 0w40 has a higher HTHS than any 20 grade, and if OP’s glitter is caused by a lack of load-carrying capability that it is an inexpensive, terrific oil that is available at almost any store that sells motor oil.
I used Mobil 0w40 (and Castrol 5w40, PP 5w40) in my 996, until something more protective came along. It will shear to a 30wt in the 996 though. It was recommended by Porsche as factory fill in the 996. Porsche now recommends it’s 5w50 classic though Mobil 5w50 was A40 approved all along.
I think there are better oils though. Read the LN Engineering link above. It’s a fact that newer specs have less protection (or maybe lower levels of certain additives) now due to CAFE and emissions control. Do you disagree? Read Navaro’s article. I think it’s correct. I recognize also that engine materials and new coatings may make it less necessary for the higher ad packs of old. But, glitter in my oil? Definitely would upgrade the oil and ofc seek a remedy with dealer.
Don’t know about Lake’s 996. Is it stock? Is the oil he uses now similar in ad pack to DT40? Maybe he replaced the pistons and has new bores from LN… doesn’t really matter though cause mine doesn’t. My current fill is Mobil 5w50. Next fill back to DT40 that I purchased on sale.
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And ofc 0w40 has better hths than a 20wt. I’m not stuck on using the 0w20 in my Lexus GX. I’ve used 5w30, and even frankenblend w/5w40 when I had extra in the garage. I’d use Mobil 0w40 in the GX too. But, lately ST Advanced. UOAs due next week from Cat Lab. $18-20 bucks per 5 qts ST Advanced. Kirkland is $15 on sale. I’m not wed to a brand or weight.
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OVERKILL
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xW-40's are not subject to the phosphorous restriction alluded to in that article (reduced ZDDP), so that's a red herring.
What’s the zddp level in DT40 (5w40)? And Mobil 1 0w40? One is higher. It’s not Mobil 0w40. So what is the red herring? Mobil 1 0w40 UOAs in the 996 show shearing to 30wt. Dt40 remains in grade.
Tested and validated by FlatSix and Gibbs on hundreds if not thousands of UOAs on the 996 engine. And other boutique oils may follow suit.
Buy what you like. I’ll do the same.
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