Mercedes Diesel Misfire After HG Replacement

JHZR2

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I have talked about my two almost identical 1991 MB 350SD cars for a while. The first one I bought, low mileage, nice car:

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The engine used in these cars is known for bent rods. They also tend to damage head gaskets due to being a larger bore (3.5L) than the original design of the engine family (3.0L), and being a mixed metal engine with iron block, aluminum head.

Years ago, like 2018-2019, I noticed a little bit of diesel oil in the coolant. I knew that to be proactive I needed to get the HG done. I had a mechanic I had used 15 years earlier, very knowledgeable, that I trusted, so I took the car to him.

He did the job, there was some issue that turned out being a leaking oil line. He did the job again. Then there was a misfire. I didn’t follow up proactively. The car was at the shop, locked there behind a gate, and I had kids, activities, work, more cars, new hobbies, etc.

Fast forward to Friday… I get a call. Was really hoping it would be notice that the car was done… nope. He has to retire for health reasons. Needs me to pick up the car… still misfiring.

Ugh.

So I consulted a bit with @Trav and today was the day… in 100 degree heat, to go get it. I knew the battery was flat, so I got a new EP Napa battery. Installed it, had my wife crank it while I held the stop lever to shut off fuel. It built oil pressure. So then we glowed it and cranked it. Fired right up. But with a worse misfire than I had imagined.



In that video, it’s idling slow, then I had my wife take it up to 750, then 1000. It smoothed out a bit but not great.

Idle shows low.

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Oil was about a quart low, and it took about a half gallon of water. But otherwise, it ran, idled, and I could drive it. Despite sitting a while and having yellowjackets under the hood…

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The belt is squeaky, brakes had some rust, but otherwise it was ok. Original R-12 system still has charge and the compressor came right on.

The mechanic told me it was compression. I thought it sounded like injectors or fuel. But he said a cylinder was low. He had done a lot. He always talked about doing timing chains as a maintenance item in higher mileage diesels. I don’t know that it needed it, but he put one on. Changed the oil pan as the old one had a small crack from the PO, had the head redone with new guides and seals.

But it misfires. When I gave it to him it ran perfectly, I just saw the oil. Now it doesn’t work.

I did drive it, for better or worse, about ten miles from the shop to my garage.

I looked at the fuel cap and filller. Yikes. I’ve seen this sort of thing on these MB cars but never this bad. I can add a racor to filter. I’ve done that before…

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Lesson learned. I should have cared much more and been much more proactive. I should have taken the car back years ago.

But now I have a car that has some real high points despite this, but that I have to figure out. And I have three kids, a lot of work in a job with rapidly increasing responsibilities, and no time. But I’m not sure that well qualified folks exist. My mechanic said part of his issue has been the inability to find good help.

I don’t know that I have much recourse. What am I going to do, sue for the proceeds of his shop sale? Take some tools? One of the old cars he has out front? So im not really interested in discussing that side of it much. It’s just the way ahead. Repair or junk it.

Since I gave him the car, I’ve also learned a ton and taken on increasingly complex jobs on these engines. I’m not really set up or inclined to pull an engine, but I think I could pull a head if need be.


So this is the start of that story…

I wanted to get to the bottom of what was misfiring. He said low compression but I didn’t want to believe it. He thought it was cylinder #2. I wanted to see just how bad it was.

Well it’s not #2, but it is bad…

I checked them hot today, and got the following:

Cyl 1: 370
Cyl 2: 350
Cyl 3: 370
Cyl 4: 400
Cyl 5: 370
Cyl 6: 120

I had the car parked outside and a thunder storm rolled through, and it was getting late, so I didn’t do a leak down. I think that cylinder 1&6 are both at TDC at the same time. So I’m hoping that I can easily get the engine there, and then do a leak down test. I should have at least checked for blowby when the engine was hot and running. It had zero when I gave it to the shop.

The mechanic indicated that he used white lithium in the bores when the head was off to protect from corrosion. I don’t know if that’s part of the issue?

What o know is that I found this on the #6 injector:

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I have no idea if this would be white lithium or something else.

So far I don’t see oil in the coolant, not that it has been driven much at all. The cooling system holds temperature very consistently in 100 degree weather.

At hot restart, twice it almost sounded like there was a brief pause or halt partway through cranking. Not sure if this means something is possibly leaking through into the cylinder.

My wife drove behind me and said there was no smoke, soot, etc. However, she was standing there when one time I was cranking it and it did that ”pause”. She said there was a bit of black and white smoke just during that.

So that’s what I know. I’m fearing the worst. Hoping for the best.

Hoping that anyone has any thoughts about diagnosis, the injectors, etc, and can start to take part in resolving this. I’d like the car to be operational once again…

Thoughts? Suggestions? Ideas?
 
Proceed with a leakdown test. Maybe stick a borescope down the injector bore. See if you can measure that number 6 piston comes to full TDC. Either way, not looking good.
 
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What is that stuff on the gas cap and fill hole? You should post this on BenzWorld and MBWorld in the diesel sections.
 
Proceed with a leakdown test. Maybe stick a borescope down the injector bore. See if you can measure that number 6 piston comes to full TDC. Either way, not looking good.
Leak down is the plan… a borescope in the injector bore won’t work without hammering out the prechamber. I have the tools to do it, so that would be the next plan. Not a huge time consumer, but I do need to find the time…

I know the deal about these engines bending rods and whatnot. Thing is, it ran perfect and smooth before I sent it in for a HG. So it’s not like the rods were bent or bores worn oval in a matter of the minutes of operations… so when it doesn’t look good, what I am trying to get my head around is what went wrong or could have happened…

I didn’t get the use of white lithium to protect the bores part. I can see that catching grit or clogging something up.

Maybe this is a dumb question, but could grease cause a ring to get stuck, and would a stuck ring be the cause of such low compression? Any idea what the white on the injector might be? I’m fearful thst white grease was in the cylinder and made a real mess. Whether it’s repairable enough is the next question…

Thanks!
 
What is that stuff on the gas cap and fill hole? You should post this on BenzWorld and MBWorld in the diesel sections.
Rust. The cap was very tight, but sitting outside so long apparently created a moisture entry.

It’s not the cause of the misfire afaik, and doesn’t seem to be a water in fuel issue. I’ll be removing all the fuel out of caution anyway.

I’m on Peachparts. Have been for decades. I’m also on the other sites. Peachparts diesel discussion used to be the best and most lively. Are the others better now?
 
Most likely stuck rings. But the real issue is "stuck because of what?"

If it's carbon/sludge build up, then a regime of HPL EC (or ARX) and then HPL oil would most likely dissolve the material and improve the compression. (I had this happen to me; many years ago I had stuck rings on a 3.0L Vulcan in a Taurus. The ARX fixed the problem over a few OCIs. Documented here on BITOG over a decade ago.)

If it's rust holding the rings in place, well, that's not something easily solved. A couple of short OCIs and then a UOA might help you find out if the Fe and Cr elevated?
 
Leak down is the plan… a borescope in the injector bore won’t work without hammering out the prechamber. I have the tools to do it, so that would be the next plan. Not a huge time consumer, but I do need to find the time…

I know the deal about these engines bending rods and whatnot. Thing is, it ran perfect and smooth before I sent it in for a HG. So it’s not like the rods were bent or bores worn oval in a matter of the minutes of operations… so when it doesn’t look good, what I am trying to get my head around is what went wrong or could have happened…

I didn’t get the use of white lithium to protect the bores part. I can see that catching grit or clogging something up.

Maybe this is a dumb question, but could grease cause a ring to get stuck, and would a stuck ring be the cause of such low compression? Any idea what the white on the injector might be? I’m fearful thst white grease was in the cylinder and made a real mess. Whether it’s repairable enough is the next question…

Thanks!
I would also check the timing marks.
 
It’s just the way ahead. Repair or junk it.
Why do people see two extremes when faced a major problem? Why would you junk what otherwise looks like a nice old Mercedes? If you don't want to deal with it, list it on Ebay or maybe even on Bring a Trailer. A junkyard will only give a few hundred in scrap value.

You already narrowed down the issue to cylinder #6. Leakdown test wont tell you anything about a bent rod. You need a dial indicator to measure and compare the stroke between 6 and a good cylinder.
 
Pull the head, investigate further. I dont think theres much to gleam from that ugly injector. Your narrative basically tells me that the mechanic's work is likely sketch and he probably didnt do the HG correctly.
 
So, how certain are you of those compression numbers? Did he take them years ago? I would re-run the compression test, and run it both dry, and then with a squirt of oil in each cylinder. Big improvement = stuck rings.

Engines that sit for a long time often get stuck rings, white lithium grease in the bores or not. They don’t just stick to the cylinder wall, they can stick in the grooves as well.

Also, that is a breathtaking amount of rust in the tank, and I wouldn’t be surprised if your number six injector is completely plugged on the backside with rust. So it’s misfiring, not because of compression, but because of a lack of fuel.

Compression test first - verify the numbers.
 
Most likely stuck rings. But the real issue is "stuck because of what?"

If it's carbon/sludge build up, then a regime of HPL EC (or ARX) and then HPL oil would most likely dissolve the material and improve the compression. (I had this happen to me; many years ago I had stuck rings on a 3.0L Vulcan in a Taurus. The ARX fixed the problem over a few OCIs. Documented here on BITOG over a decade ago.)

If it's rust holding the rings in place, well, that's not something easily solved. A couple of short OCIs and then a UOA might help you find out if the Fe and Cr elevated?

Agreed, that’s the mystery. What happened to it when in the shop’s custody? And was it even that, vs a botched head job? I feel like it would be better if it’s a valve issue, though none of it would be fun.

If it was because they coated the bores with grease, it would seem to me that it could pack up in the rings. But would that be enough to essentially give no compression.

I would also check the timing marks.
Yes I agree. I mentioned about timing when I went to get my key back. He knew all about how to time it right. But seeing it myself is key now. Thing is, off timing couldn’t cause low compression.

Why do people see two extremes when faced a major problem? Why would you junk what otherwise looks like a nice old Mercedes? If you don't want to deal with it, list it on Ebay or maybe even on Bring a Trailer. A junkyard will only give a few hundred in scrap value.

You already narrowed down the issue to cylinder #6. Leakdown test wont tell you anything about a bent rod. You need a dial indicator to measure and compare the stroke between 6 and a good cylinder.

Junking it was just coloquialism. A low mileage rust free w126 body with working original r12 ac is worth something in its own right…
 
So, how certain are you of those compression numbers? Did he take them years ago? I would re-run the compression test, and run it both dry, and then with a squirt of oil in each cylinder. Big improvement = stuck rings.

Engines that sit for a long time often get stuck rings, white lithium grease in the bores or not. They don’t just stick to the cylinder wall, they can stick in the grooves as well.

Also, that is a breathtaking amount of rust in the tank, and I wouldn’t be surprised if your number six injector is completely plugged on the backside with rust. So it’s misfiring, not because of compression, but because of a lack of fuel.

Compression test first - verify the numbers.
I took them yesterday. They’re my numbers. I was surprised by the #6 value. I didn’t add oil because it wasn’t a straightforward thing to do - I’d have to add it through the injector hole and it would have to seep through the holes in the prechamber. No direct access to the piston. But obviously digging in more is in the cards.
 
He checked compression. #6 is dead.

I would suspect the work that was done and start by removing the rocker cover and looking at #6.
It’s going to look something like this:

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That’s just the 5cyl version.

So I don’t know that there’s much to see…
 
If it were mine, and I had done the compression numbers (I thought the mechanic had done that, and stated that they were low), I would pull the head. It’s a pain, but can be done in a day.

The fact that this car:

1. Ran OK when you brought it in.
2. Then sat for years.
3. Has rust on the #6 injector

Leads me to believe that you had water get in to #6. Which can rust the rings to the pistons as well as to the bores.

But oh, that fuel tank and cap. I would remove the fuel tank (not easy on this car if it’s like the ones I have owned) and have it cleaned and coated inside, or just replaced with a good one. Then replace the filter and clean the lines.

Even if you solve the running issue - that fuel tank is going to continue to be a problem with all that rust.
 
You would think you would have more exhaust smoke from a totally dead hole. Like said, could be a valve not seating.

I assume you paid this guy a lot of money, thus the legal recourse?
 
Yes I agree. I mentioned about timing when I went to get my key back. He knew all about how to time it right. But seeing it myself is key now. Thing is, off timing couldn’t cause low compression.
Ignition on a gas engine or pump timing on a diesel cannot effect compression but cam timing sure can but it would probably effect more than one cylinder. Is this the engine you were doing lifters on? It still has some noise that sounds like it is coming from the top end.
A collapsed lifter, broken or weak valve spring or bad cam lobe can cause not only noise but lower compression on one cylinder, you cannot go on looks alone camshaft lobes need to be measured.
You need to check everything carefully and thoroughly before tearing the head off or condemning the engine.
 
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