Hi again everyone,
I was amongst those who took advantage of the PureOne rebate promos and got 4 air filters and 6 oil filters (PL24651) for my Grand Marquis. I still have a couple Motorcraft oil filters leftover (the tried and true FL820s). With the winter coming up, I was wondering which of the two would have the bigger advantage in dry startup protection. I do know the ADBVs for both are in the base end. (Didn't the old PureOne blues have them in the dome?) Plus, I will be using QSUD 0w20 from the $4 Big Lots sale to go along with the filter that is recommended. This could be a good one for the Ford modular V8 folks. Thanks again everybody.
MC FL820s vs gold PureOne PL24651 for winter
- Thread starter mercuryblues
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820S 
nough said
nough said
Originally Posted By: mercuryblues
I do know the ADBVs for both are in the base end. (Didn't the old PureOne blues have them in the dome?)
I don't believe the new Pureones have a thread end bypass either? I could be wrong though as i haven't used a P1 in over 2 years as i hate the paint.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Smokefan1977
I don't believe the new Pureones have a thread end bypass either? I could be wrong though as i haven't used a P1 in over 2 years as i hate the paint.
I hate the bypass valve design in the PL24651. I much prefer the FL820s for year-round use. I experience less startup rattle with the FL820s also.
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Of course, both are made by Purolator (820s made by Purolator to Ford specification). After I bought my FX4, I also bought a P1 and compared it to the 820s. In the end, I chose the 820s over the Purolator for a few reasons:
- Warranty - I did not want Ford to have a reason not to honor it
- Price - without a special deal, the 820s is cheaper than the P1
- Difference in construction (do not know if it matters) - not sure how to describe it, but the 820s has a "nozzle" that is about 1" long starting at the threads and going into the filter. The P1 is "open" past the threads
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
[*]Difference in construction (do not know if it matters) - not sure how to describe it, but the 820s has a "nozzle" that is about 1" long starting at the threads and going into the filter. The P1 is "open" past the threads[/list] Hope this helps!
MC FL820s all the way on the 4.6L!
Originally Posted By: mercuryblues
Hi again everyone,
I was amongst those who took advantage of the PureOne rebate promos and got 4 air filters and 6 oil filters (PL24651) for my Grand Marquis. I still have a couple Motorcraft oil filters leftover (the tried and true FL820s). With the winter coming up, I was wondering which of the two would have the bigger advantage in dry startup protection. I do know the ADBVs for both are in the base end. (Didn't the old PureOne blues have them in the dome?) Plus, I will be using QSUD 0w20 from the $4 Big Lots sale to go along with the filter that is recommended. This could be a good one for the Ford modular V8 folks. Thanks again everybody.
Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: mercuryblues
Hi again everyone,
I was amongst those who took advantage of the PureOne rebate promos and got 4 air filters and 6 oil filters (PL24651) for my Grand Marquis. I still have a couple Motorcraft oil filters leftover (the tried and true FL820s). With the winter coming up, I was wondering which of the two would have the bigger advantage in dry startup protection. I do know the ADBVs for both are in the base end. (Didn't the old PureOne blues have them in the dome?) Plus, I will be using QSUD 0w20 from the $4 Big Lots sale to go along with the filter that is recommended. This could be a good one for the Ford modular V8 folks. Thanks again everybody.
Another good one on my part for mixing up the ADBV for the bypass, guess that's what I get for being a bit of a noob. 
Oh well, nothing wrong with a little self-depreciating comic relief anyway. So unless I got it wrong, I'm guessing the best strategy would be to use the Motorcrafts for winter and my PureOne supply for summer? After that I'll stick with the MC year-round. Thanks as always everyone for all your input. Very well appreciated.Originally Posted By: steve20
Is there such a thing as Ford Modular V8 folks?
There are a number of us "Ford Modular V8 folks" here at BITOG. Welcome to the fold!
My opinion as one of that crowd is that as far as winter performance goes, like the post above, I don't see a difference... both have silicon ADBV valves and that's the major winter design feature.
FWIW, I am now running a P1 on my 5.4L in preference to a FL820S because of the higher level of filtration. The base end bypass is indeed a preferable construction element but somewhat overvalued IMO. In valuing and weighing each of those characteristics, my conclusion is that finer filtration is a benefit that pays every day. The base end bypass is harder to value. Yes, in theory, if a bypass event occurs it's less likely contaminants on the dirty side of the filter will be flushed into the system. The questions to ask are:
1) How often do bypass events occur?
2) Under what circumstances is a bypass event likely to occur.
3) Why do almost every other filter manufactuer (included the very top end,best, most whizbang and highly rated) filters still use a dome end bypass?
My answers:
1) Almost never.
2) Most likely on a cold start, or first startup after an oil change, and in either case, the event is momentary. In such an event, the likelihood of much contamination being flushed off the filter is minimal.
3) Because they don't see it as a necessary feature... for the reasons above and likely others.
In my perfect world, you would be able to get an filter with a base end bypass and the general high construction quality of an FL820S,but with the media of an P1 at the cost of a P1. Since I have to choose between features, again, I choose the feature that pays daily, the better filtration.
PS and FYI- I finally have all the pieces now to install a Racor ABS bypass system on my 5.4L. It will have a 3um absolute filter in it. I have one more P1 in my stash to use and after that, I will probably switch back to FL820S.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
There are a number of us "Ford Modular V8 folks" here at BITOG. Welcome to the fold!
My opinion as one of that crowd is that as far as winter performance goes, like the post above, I don't see a difference... both have silicon ADBV valves and that's the major winter design feature.
FWIW, I am now running a P1 on my 5.4L in preference to a FL820S because of the higher level of filtration. The base end bypass is indeed a preferable construction element but somewhat overvalued IMO. In valuing and weighing each of those characteristics, my conclusion is that finer filtration is a benefit that pays every day. The base end bypass is harder to value. Yes, in theory, if a bypass event occurs it's less likely contaminants on the dirty side of the filter will be flushed into the system. The questions to ask are:
1) How often do bypass events occur?
2) Under what circumstances is a bypass event likely to occur.
3) Why do almost every other filter manufactuer (included the very top end,best, most whizbang and highly rated) filters still use a dome end bypass?
My answers:
1) Almost never.
2) Most likely on a cold start, or first startup after an oil change, and in either case, the event is momentary. In such an event, the likelihood of much contamination being flushed off the filter is minimal.
3) Because they don't see it as a necessary feature... for the reasons above and likely others.
In my perfect world, you would be able to get an filter with a base end bypass and the general high construction quality of an FL820S,but with the media of an P1 at the cost of a P1. Since I have to choose between features, again, I choose the feature that pays daily, the better filtration.
PS and FYI- I finally have all the pieces now to install a Racor ABS bypass system on my 5.4L. It will have a 3um absolute filter in it. I have one more P1 in my stash to use and after that, I will probably switch back to FL820S.
modV8- Interesting info. More desired... specifically info on any published info on the frequency of bypass (if it's public domain) and the Fram references. Would really like to update my knowledge and fill up my files with more stuff. Are there studies available that show how much in the way of contamination is likely to go into the lubrication system during a bypass event? Finally, relating to why the FL820S is "better" is it just because of he bypass location or some other reason?
Originally Posted By: modularv8
You'd be better off with the FL820s year round. As for the frequency of oil filter bypass mode,
1. It happens far more often than people realize. From charts I have analyzed from my work at SWRI, most filters will go into bypass pressure relief mode when the temperature drops below 40F @ 2 - 3 gpm (5w-30) with a clean/fresh oil filter.
Originally Posted By: modularv8
2. According to Fram, the pressure relief valve is expected to open anywhere from 20k to 30k per OCI, mostly from cold start-up.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Both have a silicone ADBV, so either would be good in cold weather use IMO.
I have to believe that Ford does in fact think the threaded-end bypass makes a difference, at least in their own engines, otherwise why would they continue to spec it in the Motorcraft line? AMSOIL needs to sell their filters for many different makes of cars and I doubt they (or anyone else) are going to make a special version just for Ford products.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
modV8- Interesting info. More desired... specifically info on any published info on the frequency of bypass (if it's public domain) and the Fram references. Would really like to update my knowledge and fill up my files with more stuff. Are there studies available that show how much in the way of contamination is likely to go into the lubrication system during a bypass event? Finally, relating to why the FL820S is "better" is it just because of he bypass location or some other reason?
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