^lol, I'm in pure sponge absorption mode, so it's all good I can wait.
MC FL820s vs gold PureOne PL24651 for winter
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Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
modV8- Interesting info. More desired... specifically info on any published info on the frequency of bypass (if it's public domain) and the Fram references. Would really like to update my knowledge and fill up my files with more stuff. Are there studies available that show how much in the way of contamination is likely to go into the lubrication system during a bypass event? Finally, relating to why the FL820S is "better" is it just because of he bypass location or some other reason?
The Fram reference is from the video that was posted. As for the frequency of oil filter bypass, this information is within SAE/lubrication journals and other cataloged studies located at the SWRI library. I am no longer a research scientist working at SWRI, so I don't have access. I can not provide the charts and citations that the inquisitive minds would want to see. But I do recall simulations performed in the lab that modeled start-up pressure spikes. These almost always lead to the pressure relief valve opening; even with hot oil. By the way, the oil filters and oil samples were almost always coded and packaged in generic containers so their manufacturer/identity were unknown. As for the FL820s, yes I believe it is better primarily because of the bypass valve location. I also believe Ford has put alot thought into a balanced design in terms of flow rate/ efficiency, PRVOP, etc. Ford has invested a large amount of research into engine filtration and has been adamant about the location of the bypass valve.
I wish I could provide you guys more in this area. There are still some publications on the Internet (Google books), that speak about Ford's approach to filtration in years past. Some talk about Ford's view about contaminant sedimentation within oil filters and the need for the threaded-in bypass location.
modV8- Interesting info. More desired... specifically info on any published info on the frequency of bypass (if it's public domain) and the Fram references. Would really like to update my knowledge and fill up my files with more stuff. Are there studies available that show how much in the way of contamination is likely to go into the lubrication system during a bypass event? Finally, relating to why the FL820S is "better" is it just because of he bypass location or some other reason?
The Fram reference is from the video that was posted. As for the frequency of oil filter bypass, this information is within SAE/lubrication journals and other cataloged studies located at the SWRI library. I am no longer a research scientist working at SWRI, so I don't have access. I can not provide the charts and citations that the inquisitive minds would want to see. But I do recall simulations performed in the lab that modeled start-up pressure spikes. These almost always lead to the pressure relief valve opening; even with hot oil. By the way, the oil filters and oil samples were almost always coded and packaged in generic containers so their manufacturer/identity were unknown. As for the FL820s, yes I believe it is better primarily because of the bypass valve location. I also believe Ford has put alot thought into a balanced design in terms of flow rate/ efficiency, PRVOP, etc. Ford has invested a large amount of research into engine filtration and has been adamant about the location of the bypass valve.
I wish I could provide you guys more in this area. There are still some publications on the Internet (Google books), that speak about Ford's approach to filtration in years past. Some talk about Ford's view about contaminant sedimentation within oil filters and the need for the threaded-in bypass location.
Well, I've got feelers out. It's just that all the info I had indicated that bypass events were relatively infrequent in the general scheme of things. The late, great Gary Allan (may he RIP) had some documentation on some of this stuff, so I will go back and reread some of his posts. If you run across anything in the meantime, would appreciate a heads up, ModV8, thanks.
Looks like the gurus are leaning towards FL820S for Ford. I presume it w'd be the same for my '96 Continental. Can somebody confirm it please? And is it just the problem in winters or year round?
And I also got the pureones for '05 Town & Country, are the pureone okay on Town & Country?
Thanks,
And I also got the pureones for '05 Town & Country, are the pureone okay on Town & Country?
Thanks,
Purolator filters used to be base end bypass valves. There must be something beneficial by switching to dome end... just like many other filter manufacturers are currently.
With the deals Purolator slings around... it is cheaper to get a P1 than a Motorcraft filter.
With the deals Purolator slings around... it is cheaper to get a P1 than a Motorcraft filter.
Originally Posted By: kemo
Purolator filters used to be base end bypass valves. There must be something beneficial by switching to dome end... just like many other filter manufacturers are currently.
there are 2 big advantages for manufacturers:
1.threaded end bypasses are more expensive to manufacture
2. there are patent issues/licensing agreements to be paid with some of the threaded-end configurations.
Neither of those really have much to do with a filter's ability to provide filtration....
Originally Posted By: kemo
With the deals Purolator slings around... it is cheaper to get a P1 than a Motorcraft filter.
If you watch for them, you can get some crazy deals on Motorcraft filters as well. When I bought my car, I picked up 2 12 packs of 820S filters, for $2.80 a pop, free shipping! I still have a couple of the old tall 820's still laying around.
Purolator filters used to be base end bypass valves. There must be something beneficial by switching to dome end... just like many other filter manufacturers are currently.
there are 2 big advantages for manufacturers:
1.threaded end bypasses are more expensive to manufacture
2. there are patent issues/licensing agreements to be paid with some of the threaded-end configurations.
Neither of those really have much to do with a filter's ability to provide filtration....
Originally Posted By: kemo
With the deals Purolator slings around... it is cheaper to get a P1 than a Motorcraft filter.
If you watch for them, you can get some crazy deals on Motorcraft filters as well. When I bought my car, I picked up 2 12 packs of 820S filters, for $2.80 a pop, free shipping! I still have a couple of the old tall 820's still laying around.
i like the mc for the flow the price and the quality
Hi all,
I'm a novice in this subject and don't understand techincals, can somebody answer in non-technical language for the following questions please?
1. '96 Lincoln continental -
FL820S - good for both summer and winter
Pureone - is it okay for any of the season?
2. 05 Town & Country - is Pureone any good?
Thanks much!
Originally Posted By: youngking21
Looks like the gurus are leaning towards FL820S for Ford. I presume it w'd be the same for my '96 Continental. Can somebody confirm it please? And is it just the problem in winters or year round?
And I also got the pureones for '05 Town & Country, are the pureone okay on Town & Country?
Thanks,
I'm a novice in this subject and don't understand techincals, can somebody answer in non-technical language for the following questions please?
1. '96 Lincoln continental -
FL820S - good for both summer and winter
Pureone - is it okay for any of the season?
2. 05 Town & Country - is Pureone any good?
Thanks much!
Originally Posted By: youngking21
Looks like the gurus are leaning towards FL820S for Ford. I presume it w'd be the same for my '96 Continental. Can somebody confirm it please? And is it just the problem in winters or year round?
And I also got the pureones for '05 Town & Country, are the pureone okay on Town & Country?
Thanks,
Originally Posted By: youngking21
1. '96 Lincoln continental -
FL820S - good for both summer and winter
Pureone - is it okay for any of the season?
2. 05 Town & Country - is Pureone any good?
The FL820S or a PureOne should be OK for all year round use. Both have silicone anti-drain back valves (ADBVs).
1. '96 Lincoln continental -
FL820S - good for both summer and winter
Pureone - is it okay for any of the season?
2. 05 Town & Country - is Pureone any good?
The FL820S or a PureOne should be OK for all year round use. Both have silicone anti-drain back valves (ADBVs).
Thank you much for clarifying!
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: youngking21
1. '96 Lincoln continental -
FL820S - good for both summer and winter
Pureone - is it okay for any of the season?
2. 05 Town & Country - is Pureone any good?
The FL820S or a PureOne should be OK for all year round use. Both have silicone anti-drain back valves (ADBVs).
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: youngking21
1. '96 Lincoln continental -
FL820S - good for both summer and winter
Pureone - is it okay for any of the season?
2. 05 Town & Country - is Pureone any good?
The FL820S or a PureOne should be OK for all year round use. Both have silicone anti-drain back valves (ADBVs).
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