Mazda 6 rust starting
- Thread starter carguy996
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My daughters Mazda3 is starting to rust in places that you wouldn't beleive! And for no appearant reason as there are no chips or scratches in those areas. Such as ontop of the hood, trunk lid, window pillars. I'm starting to see paint bubbles on flat surfaces that see the least elements.
Mazda builds a nice car that is lots of fun to drive but they cut corners terrably when it came time to treat their metal. Now that she owns this mazda, I have done some searching in different sites for information about the vehicle itself and how to proberly maintain the car, what proper fluids to use etc.
I am finding alot of owners very dissatisfied with how/where their mazda3 & mazda6 are rusting and how soon!
Each vehicle has their quirks, mishaps and issues. This may be one of mazda's problems. This is a great little car but, it's going to need a great deal of attention in the washing/waxing dept. in order to keep it in good condition.
Mazda, wake up. This is unacceptable!
Mazda builds a nice car that is lots of fun to drive but they cut corners terrably when it came time to treat their metal. Now that she owns this mazda, I have done some searching in different sites for information about the vehicle itself and how to proberly maintain the car, what proper fluids to use etc.
I am finding alot of owners very dissatisfied with how/where their mazda3 & mazda6 are rusting and how soon!
Each vehicle has their quirks, mishaps and issues. This may be one of mazda's problems. This is a great little car but, it's going to need a great deal of attention in the washing/waxing dept. in order to keep it in good condition.
Mazda, wake up. This is unacceptable!
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Those rust issues might be why there are zero Mazda3's and a single Mazda6 around me. Everything rusts very rapidly.
My brother has his heart set on a Mazda3 hatchback. I'll let him know to expect a short, fun-filled life with it before it's a junker.
My brother has his heart set on a Mazda3 hatchback. I'll let him know to expect a short, fun-filled life with it before it's a junker.
5th generation Maxima (200-2004), you can NOT find one without rusted rear wheel well in New England. Radiator support bracket is a huge under body part which is completely corroded with huge gaping holes. The 4th generation (pre-2000) Maxima had the exact same problem.
- Vikas
- Vikas
I rustproof my Mazda annually and do touchups just before winter in the wheel wells and other areas just for that reason.
So far, no rust and I hope it stays that way.
Now for carguy's problem.
I really do not think he wants to start tearing into metal at this point, especially since the car is well taken care of (I wouldn't either). You have to deal with a mismatched paint, body parts removal and fitment issues etc.
Too much hassle for something that is in a very early stage of development and is not an eye sore yet.
Here is what I did on my 95 Accord (try finding one without rust in the wheel wells) and it works. Better yet I got a chance to compare this to an identical car (my father had a 95 Accord at the time too), so I know my (I should say my uncle’s) method works.
Little back story:
I had a 95 Accord that I purchased early in 2004, my dad had his Accord since 2000 at the time. Of course the car had the rear wheel wells all rusted through, so did my dad's car. So, early summer we decided to fix the rust on both cars. We cut out the rusted sheet metal and patched it with aluminum sheet metal (I know it was a horrible choice), put the bondo and paint. Cars were 9 years old, so we were not looking at a superb job anyway, but the result were not bad at all.
My uncle was helping us as well and he recommended using a rustproofing oil in a spray can to treat the repaired areas. I bought a can of the stuff and was treading the area every few months and gave it an extra dose just before winter, my dad declared that it was too much hassle and that the patch would hold anyway, so he did nothing at all beyond the repair.
Guess who had to do the repair all over again next summer? While my car only had a small blister or two in the repaired area, my dad's car had rust going through the paint.
I kept up with the rustproofing of that area and I still had the same minor bubbling in 2006 when my car got totaled, my dad in the mean time had to fix the rust twice (he’s stubborn
).
I do the same with my Mazda, on top of annual rust treatments that cover the whole car.
I recommend Rust Check green can, or Fluid Film, forget motor oil, it won't stay on the metal. Just spray the inner area, behind the plastic liner twice a year and the rust should not progress any further.
So far, no rust and I hope it stays that way.
Now for carguy's problem.
I really do not think he wants to start tearing into metal at this point, especially since the car is well taken care of (I wouldn't either). You have to deal with a mismatched paint, body parts removal and fitment issues etc.
Too much hassle for something that is in a very early stage of development and is not an eye sore yet.
Here is what I did on my 95 Accord (try finding one without rust in the wheel wells) and it works. Better yet I got a chance to compare this to an identical car (my father had a 95 Accord at the time too), so I know my (I should say my uncle’s) method works.
Little back story:
I had a 95 Accord that I purchased early in 2004, my dad had his Accord since 2000 at the time. Of course the car had the rear wheel wells all rusted through, so did my dad's car. So, early summer we decided to fix the rust on both cars. We cut out the rusted sheet metal and patched it with aluminum sheet metal (I know it was a horrible choice), put the bondo and paint. Cars were 9 years old, so we were not looking at a superb job anyway, but the result were not bad at all.
My uncle was helping us as well and he recommended using a rustproofing oil in a spray can to treat the repaired areas. I bought a can of the stuff and was treading the area every few months and gave it an extra dose just before winter, my dad declared that it was too much hassle and that the patch would hold anyway, so he did nothing at all beyond the repair.
Guess who had to do the repair all over again next summer? While my car only had a small blister or two in the repaired area, my dad's car had rust going through the paint.
I kept up with the rustproofing of that area and I still had the same minor bubbling in 2006 when my car got totaled, my dad in the mean time had to fix the rust twice (he’s stubborn
I do the same with my Mazda, on top of annual rust treatments that cover the whole car.
I recommend Rust Check green can, or Fluid Film, forget motor oil, it won't stay on the metal. Just spray the inner area, behind the plastic liner twice a year and the rust should not progress any further.
=1 Kastas. Waraanty is for rust through. Wire brush off the rust and buy a can of rustolium rust proof stuff and spray it.
I own a 2004 Mazda 3, bought brand new. After the winter of 2008 there was very slight rust on the rear wheel wells, as I've seen on many cars, except the start only took 4 years. I was disappointed for sure, as I've always been told rust will spread like wild-fire once it develops. This initial rust was so small mind you, you'd literally have to get on your knees and look up the wheel-well to see the rust, so it certainly wasn't some huge dealer breaker for me. I wasn't looking forward the the next winter though.
3 brutal Chicago winters later, I'm actually very pleased. The rust has gone from specks on the wheel wells, to small patches that might be the size of half a finger nail. Once again, the rust is not visible unless you get on your knees and make an effort to look for it. Besides the rear wheel-wells, the rest of the car is just fine.
Every spring detail it gets slightly worse, but I'm actually glad the rate of rust taking over is very slow. Based on the rust progress every year, the car will be 10-11 years old before the rust becomes noticeable to the point of being a general eye-sore, it's still nowhere near that.
Just my experiences, but if I can get 5 winters before specks of rust appear in a hidden place, and 8 winters for a few millimeter size patches show up in that area, that's fine with me. I'd rather put miles on my car and enjoy the great ride rather than worry over some wheel-well rust.
3 brutal Chicago winters later, I'm actually very pleased. The rust has gone from specks on the wheel wells, to small patches that might be the size of half a finger nail. Once again, the rust is not visible unless you get on your knees and make an effort to look for it. Besides the rear wheel-wells, the rest of the car is just fine.
Every spring detail it gets slightly worse, but I'm actually glad the rate of rust taking over is very slow. Based on the rust progress every year, the car will be 10-11 years old before the rust becomes noticeable to the point of being a general eye-sore, it's still nowhere near that.
Just my experiences, but if I can get 5 winters before specks of rust appear in a hidden place, and 8 winters for a few millimeter size patches show up in that area, that's fine with me. I'd rather put miles on my car and enjoy the great ride rather than worry over some wheel-well rust.
It's too bad as these cars(especially the 3) have quite a high resale value in my area.
I also rust proof my cars annually and have never had a problem with rust on any on my previous Mazdas and my current 08 Mazda5. Living in a rust belt it only makes sense. I use Krown rust proofing and have been for years. I see rust on many types of vehicles around here. Nissans, Chevys, VWs are pretty notorious for rust around here. My 97 Saab 900 has no rust and the underbody is mint.
We're trying Fluid Film on the Honda. I didn't get it its first winter thanks to being far away, but I did it this past winter with 4 cans sprayed in every nook/cranny on the underside and the doors. It will show if it works by the lack of rust in a few years.
I went to a body shop today to see what they recommend. For $150, they are going to clean the area of rust, put a rust converter on there and put undercoating in the wheel well. They can almost guarantee it will not come back. Does that seem like a good repair for the money?
For my Mazda3, I started using RustCheck on the inner lip of the rear fenders last spring after noticing the first signs of rust along the inner edges. I cover the brakes with a plastic bag and hose it down pretty good during seasonal tire changes. After applying it in November, the fenders were still wet with oil when I applied it again last week during the tire change. As long as it stays oily, it's not going to rust any further. I can't even see any rust on the edges anymore.
I use the thicker stuff in the green can for fenders, and the thinner stuff in the red can inside the doors.
I use the thicker stuff in the green can for fenders, and the thinner stuff in the red can inside the doors.
Originally Posted By: carguy996
I went to a body shop today to see what they recommend. For $150, they are going to clean the area of rust, put a rust converter on there and put undercoating in the wheel well. They can almost guarantee it will not come back. Does that seem like a good repair for the money?
That is a good price. I take it it does NOT include new touch paint on the panel. If it does, then it is great price.
- Vikas
I went to a body shop today to see what they recommend. For $150, they are going to clean the area of rust, put a rust converter on there and put undercoating in the wheel well. They can almost guarantee it will not come back. Does that seem like a good repair for the money?
That is a good price. I take it it does NOT include new touch paint on the panel. If it does, then it is great price.
- Vikas
Originally Posted By: carguy996
I went to a body shop today to see what they recommend. For $150, they are going to clean the area of rust, put a rust converter on there and put undercoating in the wheel well. They can almost guarantee it will not come back. Does that seem like a good repair for the money?
DO NOT let them spray the undercoating on the fix, it will just mask the rust until it's too late. Let them fix the rust and use Rust Check or Fluid Film to treat the area at least annually.
If you think that the shop will magically stop the rust from spreading, you will be very disappointed.
I went to a body shop today to see what they recommend. For $150, they are going to clean the area of rust, put a rust converter on there and put undercoating in the wheel well. They can almost guarantee it will not come back. Does that seem like a good repair for the money?
DO NOT let them spray the undercoating on the fix, it will just mask the rust until it's too late. Let them fix the rust and use Rust Check or Fluid Film to treat the area at least annually.
If you think that the shop will magically stop the rust from spreading, you will be very disappointed.
The paint is not affected, the rust is contained inside the wheel well above the lip, the rust is not visible looking at the car. I discovered it when after a rain there would be rust residue inside the wheel, when I ran a white cloth on the inner wheel well I noticed the rust. The dealer repair includes sanding the rust, putting a rust treatment of some sort on it and then undercoating both wheel wells, the left side only as a preventative since it hasnt started rusting that we can see.
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