Magnetic drain plug failure.

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Sometimes faster cheaper smaller doesn't work out. The oil pans in my Jeeps were junk and wallowed out the plug threads. The threads on my 1st 528e' oil pan had a high spot that would eventually strip the plug threads. All the magnets ever collected was plug thread shavings.
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I got my Dorman at a local Baxter Auto Parts for ~$6

I see on Dorman's site that they have their version of a Fumoto
 
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Originally Posted By: MarcS

that plug is clearly made of anodized aluminum.


Then possibly over-tightened.... but that would STILL be a failure of the person installing it.

Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Right you are Tex. I have been changing oil for over sixty years, and never,never had a drain plug loosen, much less fall out.


I've never seen it either. I smell ground pork....
 
Lets not jump to conclusions.
Thanks vlad for sharing your experience.

Perhaps the 0w20 was on sale and cheaper than anything else and it is possible that the drain plug came loose.
 
Ok, just gotta put in my 2 cents worth. I have never used a torque wrench on a drain plug in my life, and I have been changing my own oil, (and customers) for almost 60 years. Both cars, and OPE. Have mostly reused the gaskets, and never had one fall out. Now I know that plug is aluminum, but there are (or were) lawn mower engines that used plastic drain plugs, and it seems to me that a mower engine runs hotter, and vibrates more than a car engine. Now to be fair I did see a few of those plastic plugs with the head broken, but they didn't fall out. Something seems funny here.
 
Thanks for heads up on that plug - if it's aluminum that's not ideal IMO - and there are far too many passing judgement on you over things we'll never know ... with another driver that engine could have been toasted ...
 
It IS possible to tear the threads of soft aluminum oil plugs and for the plug to fall out.

A steel oil plug is best with or without a magnet.

Aluminum oil plugs are often made with cut threads instead of rolled threads and from
aluminum that is soft when when full hard drawn AL bar stock should be used.

Thread rolling tools for manufacturing an outside thread costs thousands $$ for a thread rolling head
and the expertise to run it right, so cut threads are used instead. Sad!
 
Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian
Yes, I do not use a torque wrench. I always use exactly the same small socket wrench to tighten the plug and know the right force to apply. Never had a plug failure until this cheap plug. All I know is that once I looked under the car - plug was not there and there was oil dripping from all underneath the car behind the drain hole. I'm just glad it did not mess up my oil pan threads. New drain plug went in and felt a lot less fragile during tightening.


That engine uses a replaceable crush washer, that you replace every oil change, correct? Are you replacing the crush washer at every oil change? I work on a similar year Toyota that has a crush washer, perhaps yours is similar?
 
Originally Posted By: Blokey
Get yourself a Gold Plug (http://goldplug.com). Stainless steel, strong magnet and made in Bozeman, MT. I've been using them on my cars for years.


I checked those out but the one for my car shows as using a crush washer while the drain plug on my car has a rubber o-ring washer for the seal. Not sure if I like the change in design with a pan that wasn't really designed for it.
 
I'm still running a Fram Sure Drain System on my F-150. I don't know why they quit making them? No wrenches, no stripped threads, no burnt fingers or hands. No leaks. No mess. I've had mine for over 10 years now. I wish they still made them. I would put one on my new Jeep Grand Cherokee in a heartbeat. I heard they still make them, but I haven't seen them in years. I tried a Fumoto, but I have to use the extension to make it work. Then there is too much hanging out. The Sure Drain was nice and short, and didn't interfere with anything.
 
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Originally Posted By: Blokey
Get yourself a Gold Plug (http://goldplug.com). Stainless steel, strong magnet and made in Bozeman, MT. I've been using them on my cars for years.
or a http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/

If using an aluminum plug, maybe wrap teflon tape around 4 threads nearest the head to seal and snug it.


I would worry about teflon tape ending up in the pick up screen.
 
Says right on the web page "Made of High Quality Aluminum and Magnet". There's your problem, aluminum. (not to be smart) Logically, how are you going to generate enough pressure for an aluminum crush washer using aluminum threads? That's a bad design.

On the other hand, I didn't know they made aluminum drain plugs. That's something to watch out for.

Side story: When I was a young boy, I was with my brother when he lost the drain plug from his Volvo on the Schuylkill Expressway. Not a good place to lose your drain plug. He whittled a new drain plug out of a piece of wood he found and force-screwed it into the drain pan. That and some scrounged up motor oil got us home.
 
I have an aftermarket magnetic drain plug on my car installed now for about 2 years; it is aluminum made along with washer;
I don't know the brand right now unless I do the oil change; I paid about $10 for it; never had a problem with it; the aluminum washer was never replaced; the only thing I noticed is diminishing its magnet power I'd say because it collects fewer particles in comparison when was installed the first time.
 
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