MAG1 Full Synthetic 5w 30. 10k OCI?

[joekingcorvette]

I would look at the dipstick and see how good or bad it really looks. Our new Toyota Rav 4 has about 8,500 on the factory fill and it looks like brand new and has had tons of short stop and starts. I know it's not the best indicator but I go by how clean the oil looks on a piece of white paper towel. Old school for sure but I have not had any big problems with oil but tend to change it prematurely too.

 

[volk06]

Did you mean to say 'Pretty Much Equal To Supertech Advanced 20k Oils'?

Not really. We are talking about Warren/highline full synthetics, didn’t feel the need to specify which one in the ST lineup.

 

[Patman]

Pretty much identical to SuperTech and Kirkland pcmo, among others.

And likely not priced as good as those or as easy to find.

 

[OilStainedNapkin]

Always at 5k OCI. Toyota recommends 5k OCI for 06 Tacoma. V6 Engine is running flawlessly (355 000 miles). Time to get off my butt and have oil analysis done. Am I incorrect to assume oils have significantly improved since 2006? Thank you for the feed back. Grateful.

What did you use prior? I wouldn’t change a thing if it got me to 355k

 

[OilStainedNapkin]

Maybe don't jump straight to a 10k oci if 5k is recommended.
Biggest difference between 2005 and now is you can't get an oil made of all group 1 oils.
The worst PCMO I know of that can still be had is around 70 to 80% group 2 and 20% to 30% group 1. That's Walmart 5,000 mile oil. Having a significant portion of group 1 base is automatically going to make it a 5,000 mile oil.
Maybe do a 6,000 mile oil change and send a sample to get tested.
Or find someone on here that has a Tacoma with that same engine and has posted oil tests.
Maybe you'll find the oil viscosity breaks down in regular oils from shearing because it's got a big old timing chain and to get 10k miles you need something like hpl or amsoil that's immune to shearing.

Curious to know how you found the base oil breakdown for super tech 5k oil?

 

[Vapor Lock]

What did you use prior? I wouldn’t change a thing if it got me to 355k

Pretty much every and any name brand synthetic oil that was on sale. Currently running Valvoline MaxLife.

 

[Vapor Lock]

I guess it's the pursuit of "The Holy Grail of Oil" And you know it doesn't exist. Never has...but I still pursue it.

 

[OilStainedNapkin]

Pretty much every and any name brand synthetic oil that was on sale. Currently running Valvoline MaxLife.

Have your valve cover gaskets leaked/seeped at all?

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Not really. We are talking about Warren/highline full synthetics, didn’t feel the need to specify which one in the ST lineup.

I asked because the pictured oil the thread starter presented is an 20k oil.

 

[02zx9r rev2]

I would look at the dipstick and see how good or bad it really looks. Our new Toyota Rav 4 has about 8,500 on the factory fill and it looks like brand new and has had tons of short stop and starts. I know it's not the best indicator but I go by how clean the oil looks on a piece of white paper towel. Old school for sure but I have not had any big problems with oil but tend to change it prematurely too.

I can look at my dipstick and the oil looks honey colored then drain it and it is black as coal in drain pan

 

[Vapor Lock]

Have your valve cover gaskets leaked/seeped at all?

No leaks or weeping with oil regarding valve covers gaskets.

At appx., 345,000 miles developed small head gasket leak with radiator fluid. Had original head gaskets replaced.
Currently engine is running flawlessly. Recently completed a1,500 mile road trip. No issues. Zero oil consumption with MaxLife. Engine ran smooth and quiet as a church mouse!

My observations: I check oil every 1,000 miles.
I noticed with this engine V6 1GR-FE at 2,000 miles after new oil changes there will be slight oil consumption appx, 8 to 10 oz. After top off I reach the 5,000 mile oil change interval with no continued loss. I can't explain it? Since using MaxLife for two runs, zero oil consumption at all. I will try other synthetic oils and HM oils to see if I get the same results.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I would stick with the Maxlife.

 

[Vapor Lock]

Yeah MaxLife is the OG of high mileage oil!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Oh you drive mostly highway then?
Yeah probably do a 7,500+ miles and test.

I reading here and can't believe all the chatter about "oil capability" without knowing how the vehicle is used

Magic Oil alone can't do a mileage - but maybe the car and the oil can do a mileage depending ...

Short warmups, moderate to hot weather, long highway miles at speed, very little stop-and-go equal the capabilty to go long on oil change intervals.

I agree with @oil pan 4 suggestions

p.s.: Mag 1 been a very serviceable oil in the past using premium boron/moly DP/AW, (unaware of the specific VM polymer)

 

[Vapor Lock]

I reading here and can't believe all the chatter about "oil capability" without knowing how the vehicle is used

Magic Oil alone can't do a mileage - but maybe the car and the oil can do a mileage depending ...

Short warmups, moderate to hot weather, long highway miles at speed, very little stop-and-go equal the capabilty to go long on oil change intervals.

I agree with @oil pan 4 suggestions

p.s.: Mag 1 been a very serviceable oil in the past using premium boron/moly DP/AW, (unaware of the specific VM polymer)

Received. Thanks sir. Grateful for feedback.

 

[oil pan 4]

I reading here and can't believe all the chatter about "oil capability" without knowing how the vehicle is used

Magic Oil alone can't do a mileage - but maybe the car and the oil can do a mileage depending ...

Short warmups, moderate to hot weather, long highway miles at speed, very little stop-and-go equal the capabilty to go long on oil change intervals.

I agree with @oil pan 4 suggestions

p.s.: Mag 1 been a very serviceable oil in the past using premium boron/moly DP/AW, (unaware of the specific VM polymer)

I'm looking for how it's driven number 1 above all else.
Is it a known fuel dilution, engines made by companies that start with the letter h come to mind. Even known fuel dilution engines don't seem to really have fuel dilution when driven on the highway a lot.
Is the engine known for being hard on oil such as a 7.3L power stroke.
Stop and go, short trips and fuel dilution kill the oil in less than 4,000 miles easy. Shearing seems to take longer, usually at least 4,000 miles.
I doubt Mag1 uses styrene polymer VM, based on only looking at the price. Probably uses the cheap stuff.

 

[oil pan 4]

Curious to know how you found the base oil breakdown for super tech 5k oil?

I didn't find it. Someone posted the MSDS on here. The MSDS listed what appears to be group 2 oils for the majority of the oil, group 1 as the minority and then the additives. The price and the short oci are a dead giveaway.

 

[OilStainedNapkin]

I didn't find it. Someone posted the MSDS on here. The MSDS listed what appears to be group 2 oils for the majority of the oil, group 1 as the minority and then the additives. The price and the short oci are a dead giveaway.

Interesting, I was under the assumption that for any oil to meet api SP that a slight amont of syn was needed. If even calls it out as a syn blend on the label

 

[oil pan 4]

Interesting, I was under the assumption that for any oil to meet api SP that a slight amont of syn was needed. If even calls it out as a syn blend on the label

There's 2 dirty tricks oil sales people have been caught doing for a while now. They'll call a group 2 oil a synthetic. Or because there's a little boron ester in the oil as a additive they're calling it a "synthetic blend" because 1% by volume is added in.
Technically they're correct. Is it dishonest? More than technically I would say.

 

[kschachn]

There's 2 dirty tricks oil sales people have been caught doing for a while now. They'll call a group 2 oil a synthetic. Or because there's a little boron ester in the oil as a additive they're calling it a "synthetic blend" because 1% by volume is added in.
Technically they're correct. Is it dishonest? More than technically I would say.

Where have you seen this? I have only seen words such as “synthetic technology” which is correctly applied. Actually you could very well have a Group II synthetic if you really wanted but no one would do that. I could probably synthesize a base stock in my basement that met the performance requirements for a Group II. Group performance targets are not tied to method of manufacture. For example, GTL does not meet the performance requirements for a Group III base without subsequent hydrocracking. It’s a synthetic base stock all day long.

And borate esters? Are you making polymers?