hoping someone here may be able to diagnose my problem as it is driving me nuts. i have (just recently purchased) a 2004 mach 1 w/ DOHC 4.6 engine which has began tapping/ticking when it gets up to operating temp and only at idle. the noise is on the passenger side and is not under the valve cover but its also not in the oil pan. it is somewhwere between. i dont think it is an exhaust leak because the noise happened immediatly after an oil change (went from amsoil 5w20 or 5w30 the original owner didnt recall, and amsoil filter) the noise goes away immediately off idle and returns a few seconds after resuming idle. ive tried from 5w20 - 10w30 oil. all plugs look perfect........any thoughts on a cause and a cure ? thanks.
mach 1 mustang
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I really hope the previous owner didn't fill it with whatever it took to get it quiet so they can get it sold. After you buy it then it is your problem. Seen that all too many times in my experience. Even saw a dodge truck with the valve covered filled with bearing grease to keep the top end quiet to sell it to someone. Really hope this is not the case for you.
wow... people are really messed up...
Check my post in your other thread. It could be worn valve guides, which are more common on the drivers side head, but can also go bad on the passengers side head. Ford sells updated cylinder heads that fix this problem, as just replacing the valve guides will not fix the tick.
dont want to confirm/condemn a "less that honest seller" but the noise did come after i changed whatever oil he had in it. then again he said he ran Amsoil (didnt specify the weight as he said he couldnt remember) and it had an Amsoil oil filter ??? the car runs flawlessly aside from the annoying newfound noise.
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What oil did you put in it?
went with a 5w25 of maxlife (had some 5w20 and 5w30. not enough of each cause it takes 6-7 qts, so i mixed it half and half) w/ motorcraft filter.
heard the tapping so drained 3qts and added 3 qts of 10w40 whick got it up to a 30 something weight i guess, still tapping, maybe a little less
changed it all to 5qts 10w30 + 2qt 10w40 supertech which I suppose is a 10w32 or something and another motorcraft filter
still tapping but a little less.
super quiet and smooth at cold start, but once it gets up in temp, the ticking/tapping starts. the hotter, the louder
heard the tapping so drained 3qts and added 3 qts of 10w40 whick got it up to a 30 something weight i guess, still tapping, maybe a little less
changed it all to 5qts 10w30 + 2qt 10w40 supertech which I suppose is a 10w32 or something and another motorcraft filter
still tapping but a little less.
super quiet and smooth at cold start, but once it gets up in temp, the ticking/tapping starts. the hotter, the louder
How many miles on motor.
The dohc 4.6 had issues with heat on the rear passenger side. No coolant flows there so the rear 2 cylinders get hot.
Was it running the stock tune or was it tuned. If it was tuned some tuners turn off the knock sensors and advance timing which makes the issue worse. I've got the identical motor being installed in a 2000 gt as I write this.
Try thicker oil and hope for the best OR. Google ford 4v head cooling mod and go from there.
The corral has a few write ups of what you need and how to do it. All dohc 4.6 engines have this design defect and potential failure but it seems as though it's the luck of the draw on whether or not it happens.
I think the issue is amplified when thinner oil is used and accelerates the potential problem. Especially if the car was driven like a mustang should be.
The dohc 4.6 had issues with heat on the rear passenger side. No coolant flows there so the rear 2 cylinders get hot.
Was it running the stock tune or was it tuned. If it was tuned some tuners turn off the knock sensors and advance timing which makes the issue worse. I've got the identical motor being installed in a 2000 gt as I write this.
Try thicker oil and hope for the best OR. Google ford 4v head cooling mod and go from there.
The corral has a few write ups of what you need and how to do it. All dohc 4.6 engines have this design defect and potential failure but it seems as though it's the luck of the draw on whether or not it happens.
I think the issue is amplified when thinner oil is used and accelerates the potential problem. Especially if the car was driven like a mustang should be.
Instead of hoping and guessing, your best bet would be to take it to a shop that specializes in Mustangs and let them figure out what is wrong. Will save you a ton of money and frustration.
Sure sounds like a lifter/cam thing.
Oil gets thin when hot, and is low flow at idle. So any faulty or worn parts can tick then.
Oil gets thin when hot, and is low flow at idle. So any faulty or worn parts can tick then.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Sure sounds like a lifter/cam thing.
Oil gets thin when hot, and is low flow at idle. So any faulty or worn parts can tick then.
These engines don't have lifters.
This is a known issue for these engines. Try google op. You will get bombarded with info.
There is a mustang forum called "the corral". It's an incredible site for tech and parts. I suggest checking it out. I've seen hundreds of threads on this topic so if you have a look you will learn more than you need to know.
And nice car. My 2000 is getting basically transformed into a Mach. The shaker is dead sexy.
Sure sounds like a lifter/cam thing.
Oil gets thin when hot, and is low flow at idle. So any faulty or worn parts can tick then.
These engines don't have lifters.
This is a known issue for these engines. Try google op. You will get bombarded with info.
There is a mustang forum called "the corral". It's an incredible site for tech and parts. I suggest checking it out. I've seen hundreds of threads on this topic so if you have a look you will learn more than you need to know.
And nice car. My 2000 is getting basically transformed into a Mach. The shaker is dead sexy.
it has lash adjusters which (i think) work on the same basis as a lifter. The oil is supposed to stay in the LA while running because of oil pressure. if it only makes noise at idle and at only when hot, do you think an oil that has a thicker viscosity at high temp would stay in the adjuster ? it is on 10w30 now, would a Xw40 be worth a try. Would lucas oil stabelizer be effective in keeping the adjuster pumped up ?
thanks.
thanks.
Head tick on 03/04 4Vs is usually caused by excessive EXH-side valve guide clearance.
A set of valve guide inserts on the EXH side will cure the issue long term, I've seen it personally. Trashing an otherwise good set of heads for the last revision castings is excessive and unnecessary.
A decent aftermarket exhaust valve (such as Ferrea Super Alloy) and a nice valve job with bronze guides will prevent the head tick even in the most extreme turbo apps with the non-revised (well 1st revision, as opposed the Jan 05) 4V heads.
For a stock, high mileage car with the head tick, valve guide inserts on the EXH-side are the way to go.
A set of valve guide inserts on the EXH side will cure the issue long term, I've seen it personally. Trashing an otherwise good set of heads for the last revision castings is excessive and unnecessary.
A decent aftermarket exhaust valve (such as Ferrea Super Alloy) and a nice valve job with bronze guides will prevent the head tick even in the most extreme turbo apps with the non-revised (well 1st revision, as opposed the Jan 05) 4V heads.
For a stock, high mileage car with the head tick, valve guide inserts on the EXH-side are the way to go.
Do not use Lucas. Period.
And Ben seems to have a cost effective solution. Try exploring that option.
NO LUCAS
And Ben seems to have a cost effective solution. Try exploring that option.
NO LUCAS
I had a 2003 Mach 1 and used 5W30 Mobil 1 and it was always smooth and quiet. Great engine.
I would try changing out the oil and use a Motorcraft oil filter...
Fuel injectors make noise and maybe a bottle of Redline SL-1 might help clean them up..
I would try changing out the oil and use a Motorcraft oil filter...
Fuel injectors make noise and maybe a bottle of Redline SL-1 might help clean them up..
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