M1 FS 0W40 vs. Castrol Edge 0W40

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Dec 18, 2019
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Metro Detroit Michigan
Since my Coyote Mustang takes 10 quarts and I'm anal about frequent OCI's, I want to stick to 5 quart jugs that I can get in the $25 range at Walmart locally. My car calls for 5W30 but want to up to a 40 weight for a bit better protection during hard driving with similar cold-start protection since it will still be thin to flow well.

I know at one point both M1 FS 0W40 and Edge 0W40 held the same certifications but they have changed since there have been reformulations but I don't know which oil got "cheapened" more. The Coyote is direct injected and not sure if it prefers a certain additive pack among the oils. The factory break-in oil and the Liquimoly Ceratec additive people use to quiet the famous tick has high moly and boron so an oil that's on the higher end of the spectrum may be ideal. I live in Michigan so it gets pretty chilly in the winter so I don't know if I should even consider 5W40 - I think 0W40 gives the best of both worlds.
 
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M1 ESP 0w40 would be another option for a GDI. Between the M1 and Castrol I couldn't say which is better, but I think the M1 has a far greater track record, globally, in multiple street driven and track driven high-performance cars.
 
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5W is from my memory good to -35F.I I doubt you could go wrong with any of the major oil companies offerings. I have M1 oW-40 in my 2018 Ford F350 with the 6.2 gas engine , the Daughters 2010 ,Ford Focus and the sons 2006 Toyota Tacoma 4 cyl . In my 2015 Ford F150 with the 2.7 eco I am running 5W-40 Quaker State Euro.
 
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Oils don't get cheapened. Technology changes as performance requirements become more stringent. In any cause based on your price point and convenience factor I don't think you'll find a difference between either of these oils.

What Ford oil cert does this vehicle take? IIRC it calls for a 20w rather than a 5w30.
 
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Shel_B

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M1 ESP 0w40 would be another option for a GDI but it doesn't make your price point. Between the M1 and Castrol I would opt for the M1, although both, IMHO, would be fine. As noted above, the M1 has a far greater track record, globally, in many situations.
 
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The HT/HS is what protects, not specifically the grade. There are some 30-grade oils that have a similar HT/HS as a 40-grade so that's what you need to look at, not grade.

Cold start protection is oft-worried about but almost never an issue. The winter rating determines whether an oil can be pumped at starting temperature, so if that is appropriate then the oil will be pumped.

If those two oils carry essentially the same approvals and licenses then there is no discernable difference you will ever detect. They both meet the same requirements for wear, engine cleanliness, deposit formation and all the other attributes that are defined and required by the approvals. As noted above, "cheapened" is a bit of a silly worry since the approvals and licenses guarantee performance.
 

FZ1

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Feb 7, 2008
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Texas
Since my Coyote Mustang takes 10 quarts and I'm anal about frequent OCI's, I want to stick to 5 quart jugs that I can get in the $25 range at Walmart locally. My car calls for 5W30 but want to up to a 40 weight for a bit better protection during hard driving with similar cold-start protection since it will still be thin to flow well.

I know at one point both M1 FS 0W40 and Edge 0W40 held the same certifications but they have changed since there have been reformulations but I don't know which oil got "cheapened" more. The Coyote is direct injected and not sure if it prefers a certain additive pack among the oils. The factory break-in oil and the Liquimoly Ceratec additive people use to quiet the famous tick has high moly and boron so an oil that's on the higher end of the spectrum may be ideal. I live in Michigan so it gets pretty chilly in the winter so I don't know if I should even consider 5W40 - I think 0W40 gives the best of both worlds.
You need a 0W for cold climate. Check around for a thick 30w. .02
 
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The HT/HS is what protects, not specifically the grade. There are some 30-grade oils that have a similar HT/HS as a 40-grade so that's what you need to look at, not grade.

Cold start protection is oft-worried about but almost never an issue. The winter rating determines whether an oil can be pumped at starting temperature, so if that is appropriate then the oil will be pumped.

If those two oils carry essentially the same approvals and licenses then there is no discernable difference you will ever detect. They both meet the same requirements for wear, engine cleanliness, deposit formation and all the other attributes that are defined and required by the approvals. As noted above, "cheapened" is a bit of a silly worry since the approvals and licenses guarantee performance.
This.

Any oil that meets Porsche A40 would be a good choice I would think. Mobil 1 0w40, Castrol 0w40, Valvoline Euro 5w40, Liqui-Moly 5w40, 0w40, or 5w30, etc.
 
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