M1 EP 5w30 vs 10w30

[redwolf4k]

My truck's cap calls for 5w30 oil. I run Mobil 1 Ep around 10k-12k a year, and normally fill with M1 EP 5w30.

When going to buy a 5 quart jug at walmart (which is out of my way) all they had was M1 EP 10w30, so I bought that.

Based on this information, 10w30 seems nearly the same as the 5w30 blend:

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 5W-20 10w30
SAE Grade 5w30 5W-20 10w30
Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 10.6 8.9 10.2
Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 59.8 49.6 63.7
Viscosity Index 169 161 147
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 0.8 0.8 0.8
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.0 2.75 3.1
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -40 -42 -39
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230 230 232
Density @15.6 ºC g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.851 0.850 0.856



Safe to assume I can run this for my usual year, enduring NY winters that can reach a couple degrees below 0?

 

[dparm]

Lower viscosity index but I'm sure it's fine. Your truck is probably not air cooled so it won't kill you to run 10w30, though 5w30 is probably the "better" choice.

 

[oggb]

Yep. It'll work just fine.

 

[chubbs1]

It will be thicker but it is a solid oil. You will be absolutely fine. I tend to forget how long 10w30 was the oil of choice for most vehicle manufacturers. You have (and this is only an opinion) the best 10w30 readily available.

 

[CATERHAM]

The truth is the 10w30 is an obsolete grade when it comes to synthetic oil. It simply has no advantage any longer in this day and age over a premium 5w30 like M1.
As has been pointed out, what's uncompetitive is it's 147 VI.
At freezing (32F) it is almost 30% heavier than M1 5w30 and at 0F 50% heavier.

If you haven't installed it yet, return it and get the 5w30.

 

[tig1]

I used M1 10-30 for many years in various engines from the cold temps of the state of Maine to Illinois and never had a cold start issue. You won't or your engine won't tell the differance.

 

[CATERHAM]

At sub zero F your engine will definitely know the difference.
Given the choice, it makes no sense to use the 10w30 when a 5w30 is readily available.

 

[redwolf4k]

Thanks for all the input.

Yeah I am definitely not going 15 miles out of my way again on my commute home to exchange this stuff for 5w30, IF it is even in stock this time.

CATERHAM, I do appreciate your information, but I am pretty positive that conventional 10w30 dino oils are rated to be safe for engine cranking as low as -4 degrees F. Given that Mobil 1 EP is a synthetic and tends to be rather light and free flowing at very cold temperatures, I am pretty sure that the M1 EP 10w30 will flow better then a dino 5w30.

Being realistic, I doubt here in southern NY I will be seeing any temperatures lower then around 0 or 10 degrees F, and thats worst case scenario. Maybe I exagerated saying below zero. The worst of the winter will most likely be the 15f-25f range.

I dont think it would be worth a gallon of gas and 30 minutes of my time to go try to hunt an exchange.

I feel like I run into this problem every year, since 5w30 is probably the most sought after oil weight, walmart is always stripped of it. It is very annoying.

The oil, at $27 for the 5 quart jug will no longer be a good deal if I have to go out of my way again.

I just wanted to check with the passionate pros here at BITOG and you guys never disappoint.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
At sub zero F your engine will definitely know the difference.
Given the choice, it makes no sense to use the 10w30 when a 5w30 is readily available.


Again, mine never did with M1 10-30.

 

[redwolf4k]

Well I made the switch.

All seems fine.

I have to tell you, I had a bit of lifter or valve tick within the first 30 seconds of startup for as long as I can remember that is now completely gone with this oil. (always use a Purolator Classic too, no filter variable.)

Is that silly to think possible? Was the 5w30 possibly too thin at start up? My father thinks so, but he is an old timer who believes that the majority of todays oils are too thin in the name of fuel economy!

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: redwolf4k

I have to tell you, I had a bit of lifter or valve tick within the first 30 seconds of startup for as long as I can remember that is now completely gone with this oil.
Was the 5w30 possibly too thin at start up? My father thinks so, but he is an old timer who believes that the majority of todays oils are too thin in the name of fuel economy!

Fresh clean oil often eliminates lifter noise for a while.
Even the lightest 0W-20 oil is too thick on start-up.
Oil myths are not called myths for nothing.

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The truth is the 10w30 is an obsolete grade when it comes to synthetic oil. It simply has no advantage any longer in this day and age over a premium 5w30 like M1.
As has been pointed out, what's uncompetitive is it's 147 VI.
At freezing (32F) it is almost 30% heavier than M1 5w30 and at 0F 50% heavier.
If you haven't installed it yet, return it and get the 5w30.

And at 212F?


And at 212F? Thanks

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: redwolf4k
Well I made the switch.

All seems fine.

I have to tell you, I had a bit of lifter or valve tick within the first 30 seconds of startup for as long as I can remember that is now completely gone with this oil. (always use a Purolator Classic too, no filter variable.)

Is that silly to think possible? Was the 5w30 possibly too thin at start up? My father thinks so, but he is an old timer who believes that the majority of todays oils are too thin in the name of fuel economy!



Even though textbook, scientific approach to oil as the result of "minimum oil ressure being maitanied, beyond that go as thin as you can" (Thats what Motor Oil 101 says, to some it is bible to some it is questionable at best, im on the fence) would tell you that the answer is NO, they have never seen your car so they cant say. Real-world users in real-world cars that have used Dino 10W-x0 all their life and then go to something "Thinner" (againm debate is furious) say YES the engine didnt make sounds it used to, made new sounds, "Feels different," started leaking (another thing that "shouldnt really happen" and yet does sometimes) - its all relative.

5w30 really has replaced 10w30 yet you can still go out and buy full synth 10w30 motor oil and your engine will like it.

Please keep in mind that even in 10W, synth will "flow better than a 10W dino motor oil."

Oil has come a long way since the 80s, attitude on "what grade to use" has NOT kept up with engine designs, and oil grades should be applied to the technology and capability of the oil they were made to use at the time (meaning if you have a car thats used an inferior 10w30 all its life you MAY be more comfortable sticking with it, though you dont have to.) Its not the same oil its BETTER oil.. but guess what that "old Oil" was still in your engine, so be careful, somewhat.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: 45ACP
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The truth is the 10w30 is an obsolete grade when it comes to synthetic oil. It simply has no advantage any longer in this day and age over a premium 5w30 like M1.
As has been pointed out, what's uncompetitive is it's 147 VI.
At freezing (32F) it is almost 30% heavier than M1 5w30 and at 0F 50% heavier.
If you haven't installed it yet, return it and get the 5w30.
And at 212F?

EP 10w30 is heavier at all temperatures than EP 5w30 including 212F, but 212F is just normal operating temperture.
During the winter I'd be surprised if you see oil temp's as high as 212F let alone above it. As a result it offers no advantage over EP 5w30.

And at 212F? Thanks

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: 45ACP

The truth is the 10w30 is an obsolete grade when it comes to synthetic oil. It simply has no advantage any longer in this day and age over a premium 5w30 like M1.
As has been pointed out, what's uncompetitive is it's 147 VI.
At freezing (32F) it is almost 30% heavier than M1 5w30 and at 0F 50% heavier.
If you haven't installed it yet, return it and get the 5w30.
And at 212F?

EP 10w30 is heavier at all temperatures than EP 5w30 including 212F, but 212F is just normal operating temperture.
During the winter I'd be surprised if you see oil temp's as high as 212F let alone above it. As a result it offers no advantage over EP 5w30.

 

[wiswind]

The old, LONG out of date, story was that the wider spread between the 2 numbers required more Viscosity Index Improvers in order to get there.
That would make the 10w30 a better choice than the 5w30.
The thought was that the VII's would break down over time.

If that was once true, it is no longer true.
Oil base stocks AND VII's have GREATLY improved over the years.
The next time that they are out of the 5w30, you might look for the 0w30 (AFE, Advanced Fuel Economy).

This oil stuff is a moving target, which is why I come here.....to try to stay up to date and out of the oil myth trouble.
Yesterday's best is not today's best......and today's best will not be tomorrow's best.
Our vehicles are changing.....and our oils are changing.

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: wiswind
The old, LONG out of date, story was that the wider spread between the 2 numbers required more Viscosity Index Improvers in order to get there.
That would make the 10w30 a better choice than the 5w30.
The thought was that the VII's would break down over time.

If that was once true, it is no longer true.
Oil base stocks AND VII's have GREATLY improved over the years.
The next time that they are out of the 5w30, you might look for the 0w30 (AFE, Advanced Fuel Economy).

This oil stuff is a moving target, which is why I come here.....to try to stay up to date and out of the oil myth trouble.
Yesterday's best is not today's best......and today's best will not be tomorrow's best.
Our vehicles are changing.....and our oils are changing.


I think you explained that pretty well, thats what i was referring to with the "Oils of the 80s" (and my family used 10W-40 then.)

I will be putting 0W-20, 0W-30, OR 0W-40 in my next vehicles, 1sr choice 0W-20 is Castrol Edge, 1st chice 0w30 is Redline, 1st choice 0W-40 is Royal Purple. Depends on the engine.

And yes there is a 0w50 "Eneos" i am not sure what cars could use that.