M1 EP 10W30 9226 oci 4cyl 97 Toyota Camry 208,000

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Originally Posted By: teddyboy
I've pretty much decided that 7500 is going to be the oci on everything we own: my 08 Volvo S60, wife's 07 Camry, 97 Camry football car and daughter's 98 camry.

+1...7500 is a safe OCI that I use for most SYN oil changes....except for M1 EP oils. With M1 EP, I'll go 10,000 (or one year).
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2003 Ford Focus SE (2.3L) / 88K
M1 5w20EP / 1 YEAR or 10K
M1 EP Filter
 
Originally Posted By: shpankey
So it's below their usual cut off TBN of 1.0 and they say to go 800 more miles? Man, I think 9k is about all I'd go on that for me. I'd like a tad bit of cushion. Pretty nice report though man. Don't get down about the TBN.

I saw that too.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
With 7500 mile OCIs you should have plenty of reserve left.


w/12k he should have plenty left
grin2.gif


Some engines just aren't going to make it long. The oil wouldn't matter in most cases.
 
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Originally Posted By: shpankey
So it's below their usual cut off TBN of 1.0 and they say to go 800 more miles? Man, I think 9k is about all I'd go on that for me. I'd like a tad bit of cushion. Pretty nice report though man. Don't get down about the TBN.

I saw that too.


That said that since there was no apparent evidence of acid etching or high insolubles.
 
So I just bought a 97 camry with the 2.2 and now I'm finding how out how bad they are on oil, I thought it was just the 1mz v6's that were terrible.

Whats the problem with the four banger 5sfe?
 
Originally Posted By: cool_breeze
Whats the problem with the four banger 5sfe?


Likely prone to sludge!
Easily throw a rod at high rpm! IMO, Never above 4k rpm
 
those 2.2's leak from every possible location oil could leak in an engine

I'd get rid of the car immediately unless you either

1) want to lighten up your wallet considerably every couple months

2) want to turn your driveway into a mini replica of the gulf oil spill
 
Originally Posted By: teddyboy
Here are the key elements of their warranty(I edited out parts that don't apply to the present discussion). Clearly they're not warranting the oil to have a TBN above 1.0 for 15k. Moreover, there is a clause regardng severe use. I wonder if that could become a major loophole as almost every user engages in what could be called severe use.

ExxonMobil Lubricants & Petroleum Specialties Company, a division of Exxon Mobil Corporation (“ExxonMobil”), provides this limited warranty to the purchasers who use Mobil 1 Extended Performance lubricant in their vehicles. This limited warranty covers the lubricant and critical engine parts lubricated by the lubricant. ExxonMobil warrants its lubricants to be free from defects and that the lubricant you purchased will protect your vehicle’s critical engine parts from oil related failure.

This limited warranty is valid for 15,000 miles or one (1) year from the date of purchase or installation, whichever is earlier, regardless of the vehicle's mileage.




I would go 8000 miles, the report looked good, and 8000 miles would probably have been a perfect OCI.

I'm sure severe service is the loop-hole for just about every oil companies warranty. They write the warranty the way they do for a reason, they don't want to have to pay out on it.

Still all and all the report looked very good, and that is coming from someone who is not fond of Mobil 1. Stick with the product shorten the OCI a bit and enjoy!
 
I've done #2 when a quick lube cross threaded the drain plug, and the oil started to leak around it at about the 2k mark whenever the engine warmed up. The landlord resurfaces the driveway every year, and I had the plug and oil replaced at the dealer a few days before they did it. Dealer forgot to replace the filter as well (didn't charge me for it, so I called it fair enough), and when I changed it in the driveway I didn't put a drain pan under. Wound up with my ramped car sitting over a nice little oil pond, just as the landlord pulled in (and the day after they had the driveway resurfaced).

My Toyota from the same era has been pretty easy on the wallet over the last 8.5K since I bought it. The only completely non-routine maintenance/repair done, after the inspection, was changing out the original factory PCV valve. Cost about $12.

These old Toyotas are pretty hard to kill and pretty low maintenance. Even the "sludge" models.

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: cool_breeze
So I just bought a 97 camry with the 2.2 and now I'm finding how out how bad they are on oil, I thought it was just the 1mz v6's that were terrible.

Whats the problem with the four banger 5sfe?


We have a 97 Camry 4 Banger also... I thought it was fine.

20.gif
<------ for info on this engine...
 
They are fine. Toyota got wrapped in the knuckles pretty hard when a few owners developed sludge problems. It was a big enough group to attract some attention (and a class action lawsuit), but relative to the number of models sold, a drop in the bucket.

I have both sludge and oil consumption in my 1ZZ-FE from the same era. I look at it as a challenge
wink.gif


The car purrs like a kitten and gets 30 mpg no problem (right in line with what it was rated for the day it left the factory 10 years ago).

The oil consumption in mine is due to a design defect that causes the piston rings to stick. Owners have come up with various creative ways of tackling it that are relatively cheap.

The sludge, in my case and probably true of the "sludge Camry's" too, is due to owner neglect. With standard OCIs on these cars being fairly high, for their time, and most purchasers still likely meeting one or more "severe service" criteria, yet still sticking to the standard OCI interval in the owner manual. Result? Sludge.

Not every Camry developed the sludge problem, and its reversible. Not as a big an issue as some make it out to be, so long as its caught and corrected, anyway. Much ado about nothing IMHO. Almost any used car is going to come with some kinks. At least this one isn't difficult or expensive to correct. And whether they are oil burners or "sludge monsters" they still somehow manage to last almost forever, and by owners who mistreat and neglect them.

Okay I'm going to stop there. I'm starting to sound like a spokesman for the SPCA. :)

-Spyder
 
Thanks for the replies. I feel pretty comfortable with the M1 HM at 7500, although I'll probably do a UOA just to make sure. Plus I must admit that it's sort of fun getting this information.
 
Just do what you can do. Run a good synthetic detergent oil,run an oem air filter,a good oil filter, and a good,top tier,detergent gasoline.
 
We have two 4 cyl camrys from this era. Our "extra" car which I call the football car has 208,000 miles. You can see from the Blackstone report that started this thread what they think of that engine. The other is a 98 that my daughter drives. It has 199,000. I would bet anything that a uoa on her engine would be good as well. Granted, these cars have been obsessively cared for, but if this is a problem engine you would never prove it my our experiences.
 
Originally Posted By: teddyboy
We have two 4 cyl camrys from this era. Our "extra" car which I call the football car has 208,000 miles. You can see from the Blackstone report that started this thread what they think of that engine. The other is a 98 that my daughter drives. It has 199,000. I would bet anything that a uoa on her engine would be good as well. Granted, these cars have been obsessively cared for, but if this is a problem engine you would never prove it my our experiences.


toyoland has a 200,000 mile club. You should add them to its database. Its fun to look through. I haven't looked at the whole list (too big), but there's at least one Corolla on it with half a million miles (a late 70s model I believe). Lots of high mileage Camrys.

That is a goal of mine with this car - 200,000 miles (on the same engine). I won't part with it until it hits 200,000 miles or falls apart - hopefully not the later. :)

-Spyder
 
^ That's what im going to go with, its paranoia stemming form the v6's which actually had the problems. I think the 4's are fine, which i talked to friend of mine about who would buy and sell nothing but the 4cyl camrys of this era and never had one with a sludge problem. All his cars had at least 120-160k miles and still ran like a top. He replaced the valve cover gasket on one and didn't see anything out of the ordinary for a car of that age...wish he would have taken some pics. True the vc gasket starts to leak but lots of cars do at this age.
My Land cruiser vc gasket was replaced around 120k, does that mean its a poor motor? Well its still going at 195k and putting out stellar UOA's so Im gonna keep it and the camry also. What can i say, im a big fan of the 90's toyotas...best years imo.

BTW, I do plan on going syn, what oils/visc's do this engines seem to prefer?
 
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Likewise a big fan of Toyotas of that era. Between proximity to the ocean and heavily salted roads, they are hard to find. They also tend go to the first person who gets there, making them even harder to aquire. I lucked out with this one. And I'd love to find a second Toyota from the 90s or early 2000s as a project car once I've finished the projects I'm doing on this one (in progress or planned).

Mine will be new to syn my next OCI so I don't have the experience base with them yet to recommend one over the other. Same for viscosity - 5W30 works well for me, but my climate is much colder than yours.

Good luck, post an update on what you buy!

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: cool_breeze
great....

can you point me in the direction of the rod problem


A rod gets loose and destroys the engine block. It is not uncommon for the 5S engine, and i know it happens to quite a few people.
I had a 98 camry I4, and it threw a rod before it hits 100,000 miles(under 160,000km) mark . That thing is seriously underpower. You cannot feel anything below 3500rpm
Is it oil problem or toyota problem?
That's one of the reasons I joined BITOG.
 
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