M1 5W30...TBN????

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Hey everyone..i was just wondering if anyone knew what the TBN of Mobil 1 5w30 is?? Or if anyone can lead me to where i can find it, that would be appreciated as well...I tried a search but i couldnt come up with anything..and i couldnt find anything on the Mobil website..alright thanks again..
 
ok so it is 10?? I was just wondering..I currently have it in my car..i thought 7.7 was kinda weak..
 
It boils down to whether you believe the VOA that says it's 7.7. It didn't used to be that low but things change. Consider next time using one of the "manly" M1 grades like 10W-30 HM or 0W-40...assuming they aren't too thick for your application (doubtful). You could thin them down with some 5W-20 if needed but the TBN would go down some.
 
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Hey everyone..i was just wondering if anyone knew what the TBN of Mobil 1 5w30 is?? Or if anyone can lead me to where i can find it, that would be appreciated as well...I tried a search but i couldnt come up with anything..and i couldnt find anything on the Mobil website..alright thanks again..




Don't know. M1 5w-20s TBN is also not listed much to the chagrin of those of use who want to put it to the test. (versus other grades, levels)
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Based on a recent UOA with Mobil 1 the remaining TBN 5+ wasn't neutralizing the acid as it should (that's all I can say about that). It may be an application specific issue, but something to think about. It doesn't matter if the TBN number is high if it isn't performing.

Note: I won't run Mobil 1 again, but I also don't think it will hurt your engine either. If you like Mbbil 1 then enjoy!
 
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Based on a recent UOA with Mobil 1 the remaining TBN 5+ wasn't neutralizing the acid as it should (that's all I can say about that). It may be an application specific issue, but something to think about. It doesn't matter if the TBN number is high if it isn't performing.

Note: I won't run Mobil 1 again, but I also don't think it will hurt your engine either. If you like Mbbil 1 then enjoy!




Whoa, based on that I am glad to be done with M! and well on my way to an actual performer with needless to say better gas mileage (knock on wood but lightly)
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M1 Supersyn grades are different in base oils and additive packages. M1 5w30 is just one grade. If M1 5w30 doesn't cut it, don't blame the brand, blame the M1 5w30.
 
thats cool..thanks for the help..I'll prolly switch back to Pennzoil Platinum..Ive been using it, but my car seems to burn it a little bit quicker than some other oils ive tried..So i figured i'd give Mobil 1 a try again to see if it made any difference..But i guess i'll switch back to the platinum on my next oil change..
 
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Based on a recent UOA with Mobil 1 the remaining TBN 5+ wasn't neutralizing the acid as it should (that's all I can say about that). It may be an application specific issue, but something to think about. It doesn't matter if the TBN number is high if it isn't performing.




So you must have had a TAN result along with the TBN in order to make that statement. How high was the TAN ?
 
Well, if you are referring to the VOA I posted of M1 5w30 I believe it to be fairly accurate, because I had VOA's run on a couple blends of M1 regular and EP that I mixed and the TBN on those was only slightly higher, granted it was pretty diluted (the EP that is, as I only used 1 qt EP with one mix of 3:1 all 5w30 and then 3:2 when I added another quart of EP, albeit a 10W-30 ), if you are are taking it for granted that the EP should have a stronger additive package and probably higher TBN standing alone.

I have to say I was still pretty impressed with the 8.** that the PP 5W-20 had.
 
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If M1 5w30 doesn't cut it, don't blame the brand, blame the M1 5w30.




That's good advice considering M1 5w30 has been the most problematic oil on the board numerous times including high iron wear numbers, strange valve train noise and even increased oil consumption. I've learned enough about this oil from BITOG to know that I'll never buy it.
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That's good advice considering M1 5w30 has been the most problematic oil on the board numerous times including high iron wear numbers, strange valve train noise and even increased oil consumption. I've learned enough about this oil from BITOG to know that I'll never buy it.
wink.gif




Hmmmm.....

have 100,000 miles on M 530 and the bearings are still where GM put 'em.
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That's good advice considering M1 5w30 has been the most problematic oil on the board numerous times including high iron wear numbers, strange valve train noise and even increased oil consumption. I've learned enough about this oil from BITOG to know that I'll never buy it.
wink.gif




Hmmmm.....

have 100,000 miles on M 530 and the bearings are still where GM put 'em.
twocents.gif
smile.gif





hmmm... Have 320k miles on Havoline, Valvoline and Pennzoil conventional oils (API grades SF, SG, SH, SJ, SL and SM) and the bearings are still where VW put them.

And 1996 Chevy truck with over 250k on it. Mostly Halvoline and Pennzoil and the same.

And a 1993 Dodge Caravan with 200k on it.

ETC..

Just wanted to add in that 100k is nothing. I'll have that be the end of the year in my 05 toyota.

Let us know when you get some miles on the engine.
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(then we will talk about how much more $$ you spent)
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Bill
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Quote:


If M1 5w30 doesn't cut it, don't blame the brand, blame the M1 5w30.




That's good advice considering M1 5w30 has been the most problematic oil on the board numerous times including high iron wear numbers, strange valve train noise and even increased oil consumption. I've learned enough about this oil from BITOG to know that I'll never buy it.
wink.gif





You can see why I see M1 in the rear-view mirror and comfortably so.
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If a given oil is really that bad 100k is more then enough to do
'em in.

Oh and that 100k is only on ONE of my rides if i add 'em
up on all it's a wee bit more then that.
grin.gif
 
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