M1 15W-50 good for Heat , as well as in Winter?

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OK. I went Window Shopping today, so i can make THE Most Informed Purchase. Posts about my car indicate 15W50 would be ideal. This we have established. It all comes down to HM Oil vs Non-HM Oil, and sticking with the same brand or not. (Do I make a brew that will yield close-to 15W-50 results, or just Buy the 15W-50 M1?)

Thats really the question, the rest of the post is Details on the matter so i can report my available product opptions vs my application of smoothing out this Probe youve all been getting more familiar with. And even though its a Mazda at heart,
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It says Ford :lol:

Details, Start, Optional: When I went shopping, I eyed up the three candidates, ONE of which (brand-wise) will go in, along with a good Filter:

1) Pennzoil,
2) Castrol, or
3) Valvoline.

The store actually yielded some interesting results..

Firstly, as predicted, NO PP 15W-50. Nope. Not there. 10W-30 PU and PP. $28 and $21 respectively. No thanks. Wrong for the app. So, basically, Pennzoil failed the "Can i actually Buy it" test, and unless NAPA has it, im focusing on the other two.

This is where things get interesting. Mobil 1 seems to win in terms of what is on the shelf, and i wanted to grab All 3 of their Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40, particularly for use in Winter (though I hear 15W-50 can do that too if it is M1,) and thats my point, they had M1 15W-50 in the Old AND New Jug. (Same with Pennzoil they had the Square Jug and the more Angular Jug of that too. Same SM Rating.)

Castrol they had Normal GTX 20W-50, and i learned Castrol is from BP. I would still buy it, however 20W-50 seems a touch thick, as I believe the poster that says 15W-50 will fit like a glove. So Castrol, whilst close, seems out. (They also did not have this in Castrol GTX HM.)

Seems Like M1 is the Winner!
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Unless i just defect and put in Castrol Syntec 5W-50 however im not sure any benefits that would yield if 15W-50 does so well in my 2.5L.

Now I believe, if NAPA does not turn up PP 15W-50, I will get the M1.

Either that, or buy MaxLife Full Synthetic 10W-30 (which they also had, $25 a Jug, thats fine) and mix it with 2 or 3 quart Synthetic Blend 20W-50 to get a perfect balance of Grade and Base Stocks. That would keep it the brand i used for a few OCs since the beginning of the year. Thats also probably why i asked about this in different ways, so i could explore every angle and possibility, until the Oil tells me if the car likes the New Oil or not.

This will conclude my comprehensive research, and i will report back the OC Butt Dyno results.
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Would you mix the MaxLifes, or just use Non-HM M1 and see what it does?
 
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Mobil 1 15w50 sounds downright scary on startup in the winter as would any 15w50 oil. I don't care what the pour point of the 15w50 is why would you use it in the winter?

Why are you using a 50wt oil again? Do you race? Is your engine a flat tappet design? Oil consumption? Worn out beat old engine? High oil temps? Turbo? Vintage engine design? Any why all this talk of mixing again? Have you looked at the VOAs and determined that the oils you are using are lacking in certain additives and you can make them right my being your own blender? Don't get me wrong I mix from time to time but only to use up all the leftovers.

Have you actually gone back and searched and read for a couple weeks to get yourself educated on the topic of motor oil and how to choose a proper motor oil? I like mobil 1 15w50 and use it every so often in my flat tappet V8 land rover but that engine is spec'd for any oil up to 20w60 not sure about your little probe.
 
I tried M1 15w50 in an tired oil-burner once (Mopar 383 v8 with >>200k miles), which you think would be an ideal application. Oil consumption went UP, plug fouling increased, and detonation increased. I went back to 10w30 for the rest of that engine's life- I pulled it from the car at 280,000 miles still running well, although burning oil.

For a Ford Probe, I'd stick with Xw30. If you're just hankerin' for heavier synthetic oil, try Rotella T6 5w40.
 
Hey Harley,I can`t remember if you said she was burning or leaking any oil. If not,grab some Valvoline wb 10W40,a Motorcraft filter,and you`ll be good to go :^)

My gf`s old Probe (leaked like a sieve and smoked like crazy) loved M1 15W50 EP,hated RP (consumed every bit of it),loved Pennzoil and Valvoline dino (in 10W40). She had a bad habit of never checking the oil,so a few times when I`d swing by her place it`d be bone dry,so I`d always fill it up with whatever I happened to have on hand.
 
Valvoline Maxlife 10W-40. Perhaps 5W-30 during winter, depending on how cold it gets there. This has been a great all-around oil for low consumption and leaks. M1 15W-50 is good for well-sealed motors that need the extra Zinc and higher viscosity. Otherwise not a great winter oil for average grocery-getter. Are you trying to extend oci by using a synthetic? I have used Maxlife for 5-7000 mile oci with good results, and the price is right.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Hey Harley,I can`t remember if you said she was burning or leaking any oil. If not,grab some Valvoline wb 10W40,a Motorcraft filter,and you`ll be good to go :^)

My gf`s old Probe (leaked like a sieve and smoked like crazy) loved M1 15W50 EP,hated RP (consumed every bit of it),loved Pennzoil and Valvoline dino (in 10W40). She had a bad habit of never checking the oil,so a few times when I`d swing by her place it`d be bone dry,so I`d always fill it up with whatever I happened to have on hand.


She is!
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All the insight is great. Im tempted to go get Syntec 5W-50, see if it uses any oil, use the Butt Dyno, measure for loss, and go with that 365 days a year. Unless thats a horrible idea, i can see it happening.

No Mixing, No Adding, No MMO, No extra ZDDP, No anything. Keeping an eye on plugs now that you mention it, 440Magnum (Respectfully, the Probe isnt a muscle car. Its a Mazda MX6 that says Ford.)

5W-50 should pass the Winter test and if its a thin 50 hot as well thats fine. Syntec.

lipadj46 was correct I skipped that particular section and i read Threads not the part on the main page. Hence, all the questions. *=(Slight Oil consumption, engine feels like its asking me to do it a favor and it will repay. Not 100% happy on 10W-40 thats where this comes from. Old DOHC, it aint dead yet, far from it.)

Sorry lipadj46.
 
Originally Posted By: HangerHarley

Sorry lipadj46.


No need to apologize I was just trying to figure out exactly why you were asking about mixing all these thick oils together for a probe. Experiment all you like mobil 1 15w50 is a great stout oil.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
15w50 in the winter?
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Seems to be the concensus that M1 15W-50 is a NO GO for Winter. Even though its Pour Point is -30C, higher than that.

This means either ill go 5W-50 in Winter Only (it will be Syntec) OR skip the confusion and use Syntec 5W-50, seeing if the car accepts it or rejects it. Winter will get to basically between 0 degrees and -10 at the deepest coldest point, Maybe. And we are having a heat wave this week, hence, keeping with one Oil. Even if 5W-50 is more like a 40 im sure it will do the trick, with great Flow.

Now you see why i was asking all these questions.

This is surely a documented case of BITOG analysing Every Possibility. Many Thanks.
 
Just because an oil "pours" at -30 doesn't mean that if provides adequate lubrication at that temperature.

Why use a 50wt anything? Most racing engines that burn very hot and do so in scorching heat for hours on end use very thin oils and the engines stand up to it...

Just wondering why you need a 50wt and can't use a 30wt...
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I have M1 15W-50 in both Accords at the moment, and it is a perfectly viable warm weather oil.
Winter?
Unless you live in a place where winter is mainly marked by the calendar, then no.
If you live in a place where a nice fire in the ifreplace might feel good in mid to late October, or earlier, the 15W-50 is not a suitable winter oil for you.
If leaks are your problem, try Maxlife 10W-30 or -40 all year round, and see what happens.
If you have main seal leaks, ARX might help.
I had a small seep in the rear main of the BMW, and after 1500 on ARX, its gone, although the oil itself still looks really clean.
 
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Syntec 20w-50 claims extra zink.


Probably has extra fosforus too
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lol
 
Hey, Harley old pal ..can you change "USA" to something we can relate to geographically beyond just a sizable chunk of the northern/western hemisphere? We don't need GPS precision ..but SW/NE/SE/MW/etc?

When you say "for the winter" I can't figure what it means. For me it means a week or two of teens with most of it just above and below freezing.

It would really help not having to check through all of your posts to see if you mentioned it already.

Rock on
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Originally Posted By: JAG
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Syntec 20w-50 claims extra zink.


Probably has extra fosforus too
wink.gif


lol


Don't forget, 15w-50 is a racing weight. Plenty of velocity index improvers.
 
M1 15W-50 good for Heat , as well as in Winter?

Yes, it is good for heat if your engine can use it.

Good for winter... not real winter like some parts of the US have.


Me, I live in North Carolina and I run it in my ATV year around.

I have cranked it after a snow at around 20° F with no problem.
And this is an engine with a high compression piston and a tiny 75 CCA battery.


Myself, I just said screw it when trying to decide and stuck a quart in the freezer, along with a quart of 10w40.

People have told me that is stupid, but it does give me an idea of how much cold viscosity change there is... And to be honest the dang stuff was more fluid than the dyno 10w40 oil after my redneck freezer test.



I like the stuff in hot weather, for sure, and I do not buy into the thinner is better [censored]. I've seen how fast 5w's and 10w's turn super thin in this engine. They had to be changed in single digit hours... every ride. That's over with the 15w50 Mobil 1.

I would not run it in winter where it is real cold though.
 
Originally Posted By: JAG
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Syntec 20w-50 claims extra zink.


Probably has extra fosforus too
wink.gif


lol


I kid I kid, I think Audie Junkie is either German or takes his German seriously as Zink is German for what we call Zinc.
 
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