M1 0w-30

[Oil Changer]

What's your point? Your nonsensical post is killing me. Pick your poison. ANY synthetic or conventional 5W or 10W is more than acceptable for all but the rarest record-breaking lows that will be found in the state of Illinois. And what will that be? Once, maybe twice in a lifetime? It does not get cold enough in the state of Illinois where using 0W-30 instead of 5W-30 will make a difference.

If you want to start throwing out names and numbers all willy-nilly, the OP should use Redline 0W-20 in the winter. HTHSV of 2.9 compared to M1's 3.0. You know, for those days when the OP will experience those rare mornings when the wind chill is 30 degrees higher than what M1's 5W-30 will flow. Gotta be prepared.

Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
Assuming m1 isn't the only type of motor oil on the planet(sometimes one would wonder if this forum was their only exposure), you could use any # of 0w30. Like Penn or valvoline or qs or amsoil or castrol or redline or you name it. Lol some of you people kill me

 

[Bigdaddyeasy]

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
What's your point? Your nonsensical post is killing me. Pick your poison. ANY synthetic or conventional 5W or 10W is more than acceptable for all but the rarest record-breaking lows that will be found in the state of Illinois. And what will that be? Once, maybe twice in a lifetime? It does not get cold enough in the state of Illinois where using 0W-30 instead of 5W-30 will make a difference.

If you want to start throwing out names and numbers all willy-nilly, the OP should use Redline 0W-20 in the winter. HTHSV of 2.9 compared to M1's 3.0. You know, for those days when the OP will experience those rare mornings when the wind chill is 30 degrees higher than what M1's 5W-30 will flow. Gotta be prepared.

Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
Assuming m1 isn't the only type of motor oil on the planet(sometimes one would wonder if this forum was their only exposure), you could use any # of 0w30. Like Penn or valvoline or qs or amsoil or castrol or redline or you name it. Lol some of you people kill me


I agree, any syn in those grades u mentioned will work. Dino too.
My post was aimed at an over all exclusion of anything not m1 by too many on this forum. Just so happened i attached your quote. Coulda been any number of post but yours was the lucky winner i guess. Not personal to you.

 

[Scott88]

I use 5W-30 in two of my cars and will blend it with a 5W-20 for the winter. I would consider OW-30 instead if I was using a synthetic.

In refernce to the dission above about 5 and 10W oil.I used to use 10W-30 and there was a noticeable cold start improvement switching to a 5W, even in NC's mild winter. All Havoline dino.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Triton_330
I don't wish to impose, but may I ask you to compare the M1 0w-30 to the 50/50 mix of M1 0w-20 and 0w-40 using that calculator (if that's possible)?

I could but it would be better if you did it yourself at this link, so you can see the graphs yourself. Just watch to not extrapolate very cold, as OVERKILL mentioned. Richard also has a mixing calculator on his site there.

Generally speaking, the 0w-30 would be lighter at most temperatures than the 5w-30. But, that's assuming the oils are meeting similar specifications, as in having very similar HTHS. Comparing GC 0w-30 to PP 5w-30 and expecting GC to be lighter at most temperatures won't work. GC will have the better cold cranking numbers, but certainly has a higher HTHS and there will be a crossover at some point.

If a person is using M1 5w-30 and AFE 0w-30 is the same price, there's little reason to not use it. On the other hand, I've been using mostly 5w-XX grades in my cars for years and I've been happy with them, even with our winters.

 

[Triton_330]

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Really? Where did that come from? FACT: Your engine does NOT care about wind chill. FACT: Your average winter temperature is 28.3F. FACT: You asked a question about oil and I answered it. FACT: I had two cups of coffee this morning. FACT: Graph M1 0W-30 and 5W-30 then tell me how 0W-30 will benefit you in the real-life temperatures you experience in Illinois. FACT: You can NOT prove me wrong.

Originally Posted By: Triton_330
You are ridiculous, sir. I wasn't being dramatic in the least bit, nor was I trying to convince myself of needing anything. I asked a question about oil, on BITOG - an oil forums website.

Secondly, we actually DO get cold winters a lot in IL, so please spare the condescending attitude. And, your ignorance in your post humors me greatly, as, 28.3*F is below freezing point. And you're trying to tell me it's not cold... Lol.

If I wanted to only go by what my manual says, I wouldn't be a member here.

Per chance, did you forget to drink your morning coffee?

Fact: You're arrogant.
I'm done with you, after this.

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Is this better?... In the realistic temperatures you will experience where you live? No.

Originally Posted By: Triton_330
So, anyway, I guess my question is, would not M1 0w-30 help make starting easier in cold winters?

Oh okay, so Overkill's example of using PU 5w-30 when it was cold, and it started hard, shows no proof that a 0w-30 would have benefited him?

Please, just stop with the condescension. I'm usually one of the nicest folks here on BITOG and am easy to get along with, but Oil Changer, you might just be an exception.

---

If you can't get it through your thick head that when the cost of 0w-30 and 5w-30 are the same, when winter conditions go below freezing point often, that the 0w-30 is the better option, then please refrain from commenting towards me. I'm not here to argue, I'm here to discuss advantages when applicable.

---

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
I don't wish to impose, but may I ask you to compare the M1 0w-30 to the 50/50 mix of M1 0w-20 and 0w-40 using that calculator (if that's possible)?

I could but it would be better if you did it yourself at this link, so you can see the graphs yourself. Just watch to not extrapolate very cold, as OVERKILL mentioned. Richard also has a mixing calculator on his site there.

Generally speaking, the 0w-30 would be lighter at most temperatures than the 5w-30. But, that's assuming the oils are meeting similar specifications, as in having very similar HTHS. Comparing GC 0w-30 to PP 5w-30 and expecting GC to be lighter at most temperatures won't work. GC will have the better cold cranking numbers, but certainly has a higher HTHS and there will be a crossover at some point.

If a person is using M1 5w-30 and AFE 0w-30 is the same price, there's little reason to not use it. On the other hand, I've been using mostly 5w-XX grades in my cars for years and I've been happy with them, even with our winters.

Thank you Garak

Right now I'm headin' to bed, but I'll take a look at that link tomorrow night.

~ Triton

 

[Oil Changer]

You are ignoring the facts that are smacking you in the face. You live in Illinois not the South Pole. So what if it gets below freezing? M1 5W-30 is good to -40C, a temperature your state has never seen in recorded history! 0W-30 is not a better option, just an option.

Overkill's anecdote means little. There are a number of reasons why a vehicle may crank slower or faster on a cold morning. Oil is one of them. I start cold-soaked diesels unaided with bulk, conventional 15W-40 in winter temperatures that average lower than yours and they start with little gripe. But you will ignore my anecdote and cling to Overkill's because Overkill's story is inline with what you want to hear. So who's got the thick head?


Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Oh okay, so Overkill's example of using PU 5w-30 when it was cold, and it started hard, shows no proof that a 0w-30 would have benefited him?

Please, just stop with the condescension. I'm usually one of the nicest folks here on BITOG and am easy to get along with, but Oil Changer, you might just be an exception.

---

If you can't get it through your thick head that when the cost of 0w-30 and 5w-30 are the same, when winter conditions go below freezing point often, that the 0w-30 is the better option, then please refrain from commenting towards me. I'm not here to argue, I'm here to discuss advantages when applicable.

 

[Turk]

This thread cracks me up.

 

[Shannow]

What I find funny about the M1 0W30/5W30 is the following.

IF lower viscosity leads to better start-up protection (not saying it does), then the 5W30 is clearly a winner down to -10-15C...the 0W is clearly superior at the limits of pumpability, as the old Esso videos show.

IMO, unless you are exploring the extremes of the low temperature pumpability, there's no benefit to the 0W over the 5w30...in the Mobil 1 range.

The 0W30 has a slightly lower HTHS, slightly lower flash point, and lower density, indicating lower viscosity basestocks...pour point would indicate more PAO as has been stated by others.

With the lower VI of the 0W30, I don't even think the claims of lower fuel consumption really stack up either.

 

[Garak]

That's pretty interesting, Shannow. I'm kind of surprised by that, considering M1 5w-30 does have a high HTHS for an ILSAC 5w-30. I was off base in my guess that the M1 0w-30 would be lighter at most, if not all, temperatures. Maybe that's the chance for M1 0w-30 to shine in fuel economy matters, rather than during the warmup cycle.

 

[Shannow]

Garak,
I think that it demonstrates that Mobil knows how to make oils...and what the 0W is for.

It's an unusual situation for sure, with the 0W having a slightly lower VI than the 5W.

 

[Garak]

It certainly wouldn't be the first example of a high PAO content oil having a mediocre VI, but excellent cold weather performance.

 

[Nate1979]

Wow, does this mean that GM actually got their owners manual right when suggesting 0w-30 only in extreme cold temperatures?.....

Amazing what a little data will do....

 

[ccap41]

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
You are ignoring the facts that are smacking you in the face. You live in Illinois not the South Pole. So what if it gets below freezing? M1 5W-30 is good to -40C, a temperature your state has never seen in recorded history! 0W-30 is not a better option, just an option.

Overkill's anecdote means little. There are a number of reasons why a vehicle may crank slower or faster on a cold morning. Oil is one of them. I start cold-soaked diesels unaided with bulk, conventional 15W-40 in winter temperatures that average lower than yours and they start with little gripe. But you will ignore my anecdote and cling to Overkill's because Overkill's story is inline with what you want to hear. So who's got the thick head?


Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Oh okay, so Overkill's example of using PU 5w-30 when it was cold, and it started hard, shows no proof that a 0w-30 would have benefited him?

Please, just stop with the condescension. I'm usually one of the nicest folks here on BITOG and am easy to get along with, but Oil Changer, you might just be an exception.

---

If you can't get it through your thick head that when the cost of 0w-30 and 5w-30 are the same, when winter conditions go below freezing point often, that the 0w-30 is the better option, then please refrain from commenting towards me. I'm not here to argue, I'm here to discuss advantages when applicable.


Good, better, and best are all different things. Just because 5w-30 mobil will do the job at 0*F doesn't mean that 0w-30 won't be better. Even the slightest improvement in flow is still an improvement.

+1 to your arrogance and condescending-ness.

Of course people will ignore your anecdose when you act like a ****.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
You are ignoring the facts that are smacking you in the face. You live in Illinois not the South Pole. So what if it gets below freezing? M1 5W-30 is good to -40C, a temperature your state has never seen in recorded history! 0W-30 is not a better option, just an option.


Actually, no, M1 5w-30 is only "good" to -30C, which is where CCS is measured, below this point it will have an impact on cranking speed. It will pump at -35C as per the MRV test. If it were to be "better" in either of these two categories (and it is usually CCS that poops the bed) then it would qualify for the 0W-xx designation. It obviously doesn't, so it isn't.

At any point below roughly -10C-15C, the 0w-30 will be thinner. This is "better"; it is "less thick". It doesn't mean it will cause less wear. It doesn't mean it will last longer in service, it simply means it will take less effort to pump and will have the pump off the relief, if it is on it, sooner. This also means that it may provide easier unaided starts, which will of course depend on battery size and health, starter capability, engine size...etc.

Regarding diesels, my buddy's 6.0L PSD would start with 15w-40 and 5w-40 in it in the winter. It would romp, far, FAR less with the 5w-40 in it. The difference was massive, yet in both instances it started. Same with my own -30C cold start anecdote, the truck still started, it was just noticeably slower rolling over than with the 0w-30 in it, which, based on the CCS test, makes perfect sense. At temps approaching -20C, it rolled over "the same", which means simply that despite the 5w-30 being thicker, it was not yet viscous enough to affect the rate at which the starter/battery combo could crank the engine.

Also keep in mind that cold temperature performance degrades with use.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
What I find funny about the M1 0W30/5W30 is the following.

IF lower viscosity leads to better start-up protection (not saying it does), then the 5W30 is clearly a winner down to -10-15C...the 0W is clearly superior at the limits of pumpability, as the old Esso videos show.


Yup, which would be nice if it was reflected in the graph, an unfortunate limitation of the calculator.