Becoming loose is not the problem, it is the danger of overtightening. Read the Kestas post carefully. I worked for an aerospace fastener company and we used clamping forces as part of our final quality control. Different thread lubes were used to change clamping forces. Having said that, the number one way to break a threaded fastener in cyclic load, like a rotating wheel assembly, is to under-tighten.
Lug nut and anti-sieze
- Thread starter zimmerDN
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I've seen some lugnuts badly overtightened but it always was from using an air impact gun to tighten. I can see how this can be a problem with breaking studs. In order to tighten the nuts that tight by hand you'd have to know you were overtightening them.
That's exactly the opposite of what you're supposed to do. You want to have the conical faces dry to create friction to keep the nuts from looseing; yet you want to have anti-seize on the threads to keep the nuts from seizing.
Similar to GoldenRod, I use 75W90 on the threads and keep the other surfaces clean. However, I usually under-torque.
I didn't know I doing if for safety (thanks Jimbo, Kestas, et al.) I thought that I was under-torquing because I had twisted too many off when in a hurry.
I didn't know I doing if for safety (thanks Jimbo, Kestas, et al.) I thought that I was under-torquing because I had twisted too many off when in a hurry.
I use Loctite 567 on wheel studs. The 567 is meant to be a thread sealer, it is also a mild thread locker. It hardens a bit and adds about 10 to 20 ft lbs of torque needed to loosen the lug nut. I don't think it lubricates the threads much, so it does not affect clamping loads much. I use it because it locks the threads a bit and keeps the threads rust-free because it fills the voids in the fasteners.
Kestas
Staff member
When I bought my first torque wrench and started using it on wheel bolts, I was amazed how little torque is needed to properly bolt the wheels.
Instead of using anti-sieze, what can I use to clean the bolt and nut so there's less rust on them. Maybe this will help to reduce the seizing.
A 20% or so less reading for an anti seized lug on a torque wrench is not tightened any less. The bolt stretch would be the same [that's the goal].
zimmerDN. To reduce seizing use the Loctite 567. Your threads will stay really clean and rust free.
I've always used Anti Seize on my lug nuts, tighten to 75Ft-lbs and never snapped/stripped a stud in a combined 1/4 million km of travel. Mind you I've never believed in the manuals recommended 100ft-lbs on any lug. Just seems like over kill, and can make for trouble if you get into trouble and need to change a flat in a hurry.
I'll keep this 20% thing in mind though. Good info.
I'll keep this 20% thing in mind though. Good info.
I have winter tires for three vehicles, I typically change out the tires on the cars and prefer having a shop do the tires on the truck. I make sure that there is a light coating of anti-seize on the lugs, and have never seen any problems with a nut getting loose.
I have seen a coworker leave work to help one of their kids change a tire as they couldn't get the lug nuts off, and she had to call her big, starpping husband who also had a hard time breaking them loose, all done in heavy rain on the side of the road.
I have seen a coworker leave work to help one of their kids change a tire as they couldn't get the lug nuts off, and she had to call her big, starpping husband who also had a hard time breaking them loose, all done in heavy rain on the side of the road.
my wife had to change a tire about a month ago on the civic and she had to call in the AAA to save her. the tires plus stire that put the new winter tires on it must have used a 1 inch air ratchet to put the nuts on. i bent the factory lug wrench trying to get one of the suckers off. i went there with the car and had a talk with sparky the manager about it. he redid them. dorks.
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