Lucus red n tacky or Mobil 1?

Well it got to about 75 today and the tub of Mobil 1 full synthetic started to bleed in the tub looked like thick soup. If it does this in the container I’m not sure how it would hold up inside the hub. I ended up going with the Lucas
Better quality grease does separate a bit.
 
When I'm at an auto parts store and have the time, I like to pull the caps off the tubes of grease and see if any are separating.
If they are (in the store), it could be worse in my 90° garage during the Summer.

But to be fair, grease guns are sealed on both ends.
Maybe we need to consider buying new guns.
Mine is 30 years old (made in USA) and has a very long 'seal' on the plunger.
I've never had a problem with it.
 
I’m in the process of repacking trailer wheel bearings. A couple years ago I bought a tub of the Lucas and forgot I did apparently. I went today and bought a tub of the Mobil 1 synthetic. It seems kind of thin compared to the Lucas but it’s synthetic and iv never had much experience with synthetic grease. What’s everyone’s opinion on which one to use?
Either one.
 
They knowingly and purposefully deceive people who buy their Lucas Oil Stabilizer with the gimmicky plastic gears and claims on the bottle. It's just a bottle of viscosity modifier (OCP) with no additives in it. It's not even a good viscosity modifier as the shear stability index is >50.

They also taut their racing oils as having more ZDDP than anyone else despite being fully aware that excessive ZDDP concentrations increase corrosive wear. They don't care though because having the highest amount sells to the "more is better" crowd.

Despite their sponsorships in racing, I refuse to support them based on those issues.

I agree 100%. I also don't like them because they are so gimmicky.

So, I vote M1.
 
So far I've had good luck with the red Mystik JT6, as far as not separating anyway.
Red Mystic JT6 is the grease I used on my P/up's Dana Spicer U-Joint. It held up really well with more than 20K miles and it's still going. I wasn't able to re-grease the U-Joint regularly due to grease fitting is not accessible. The fitting is hidden at all U-Joint's angle on the drive shaft.
 
You can either use both. Just avoid driving in flooded streets. Once the water or any moisture gets inside the bearing the grease will begin to degrade
 
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My utility trailer Is about 17 years old and I packed the bearings when new. It probably has a few thousand miles on it and the bearings still run cool after e hyw run. No bearing failures. Also your better grease's will have separation for better lubrication.
 
Also your better grease's will have separation for better lubrication.

Ehh, no. You do not want grease to separate in service. The oil can flow away from the parts that need it, and ust soap would be left behind.
 
I’ll never buy Mobil 1 grease in a tube again. Stuff quickly separates and leaked all over the place… I,ve been keeping my grease gun with it in a large drip pan.

Have tried and Will use again, the red synth grease from F&T store. Did not have this problem when I used it in the past.
 
Is there any brand of red lithium grease that doesn’t seperate?
I've used Redline for quite a few years now and have never had separation issues with it, and with over a million kms on my 4Runner I still had the original u-joints in it when I sold it, even after years of moderate off-roading and a ton of highway miles to the ski hill and back. The u-joints were still tight, no rattles or movement.
 
a couple of trailer companies recommend either Lucas R&T or the Marine. I used the marine on my trailer wheel bearings, & the gimble bearing and u joints on the boat (I/O power train) it seems to work fine for all 3 applications. The R&T is lithium complex based whereas the Marine (blue) is Calcium Sulfonate based. The I/O powertrain is not really exposed to water directly but in a humid environment all summer, the trailer wheel bearings go in and out of salt water 2-4 times a year. No problems so far and I've been using it for a long time. I started with Pennzoil Marine 20 years ago and when that got discontinued I went with the Lucas. Last year I replaced the axle I used for 17 years and the bearings were still good. Replaced it just because I wanted a safety margin the old axle was a 3500 lb unit this one is a 6000 lb unit with 12" surge brakes.
 

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For wheel bearings, something that isn’t tenaciously tacky(like Lucas Red & Tacky or most of Schaeffer’s greases), or loaded down with black MO2S(which rules out CRC Molygraph, Valvoline SynPower/Palladium and most parts store grease) would be my pick. I’ve packed wheel bearings in Red Line CV2 that uses a similar “synthetic” moly as Schaeffer’s 219 that plays nice with roller and ball bearings. Recently, the only thing I service with tapered bearings has Chevron Delo ESI #2. It has a Mercedes, Meritor and Dana approval for extended service. Seems to work fine.

Aluminum complex and overbased calcium sulfonate tend to do better with water exposure than lithium complex. Schaeffer’s, Red Line and WD-40 Specialist multi-purpose greases are examples of such.
 
Red Mystic JT6 is the grease I used on my P/up's Dana Spicer U-Joint. It held up really well with more than 20K miles and it's still going. I wasn't able to re-grease the U-Joint regularly due to grease fitting is not accessible. The fitting is hidden at all U-Joint's angle on the drive shaft.






I used to use a lot of Red & Tacky until I tried Mystic JT6, it's easily as good or even better than Red & Tacky and its half the price.
 
They knowingly and purposefully deceive people who buy their Lucas Oil Stabilizer with the gimmicky plastic gears and claims on the bottle. It's just a bottle of viscosity modifier (OCP) with no additives in it. It's not even a good viscosity modifier as the shear stability index is >50.

They also taut their racing oils as having more ZDDP than anyone else despite being fully aware that excessive ZDDP concentrations increase corrosive wear. They don't care though because having the highest amount sells to the "more is better" crowd.

Despite their sponsorships in racing, I refuse to support them based on those issues.
It's part of the Inland Empire (they are in Corona) mentality. Looks first and that gear machine is great.
 
Used M1 in my car hauler trailer - not sure it is protecting well as it bleeds out of the hubs and one bearing went bad. I replaced all the bearings just to be safe with new Timkens and used STP grease that met all the right specs and so far its doing fine and no leakage---and much less expensive.
 
The Lucas Extreme Gun Oil is a very good product. Holds up well in heat and extended shooting sessions. Doesn't readily dry out. That's their only product I use.
 
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