Lube the lugs?

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Problems in the shop are with stuck lugs.
A little anti seize is great.
Reduce torque 10-20%.
And for trucks with exposed lugs, A S is mandatory.
 
These issues make me glad I live in Florida!

All our GM products are equipped with galvanized studs. So they simply never have a problem, even on my 400k mile factory freak.
 
I just took off some lug nuts that have been on a neglected Escort for 4 years. It took some PB blaster soak and a breaker bar to take it off. Other than this incident I never had any problem removing lug nuts with only the tire iron and my leg.
 
I use anti seize on all wheel studs. It makes it much easer to repair the next time a idiot with a impact wrench tries to weld the nut to the stud. Almost any fasteners should be either lubed or lock tited, if you want to be able to remove it in the future.
 
I have seen too many lug nuts which would have been impossible to remove on the side of the road because they were installed dry and seized.
AS others have said reduce the torque when tightening to compensate for the lubricant.
I always use a torque wrench and have never had one loosen nor have I broken or stripped any studs/nuts or caused a warped rotor or damaged an alloy wheel from being over torqued.
If the studs, nuts & wheels are severely rusted the added resistance will result in the stud/nut to actually be under torqued and the very real possibility of the wheel coming loose.
I work on domestic and foreign cars & trucks up to 1 ton and have never had a wheel loosen.
I don’t like neversieze because it gets thrown off & makes a mess.
I’ve been doing this for years, never a problem.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
All our GM products are equipped with galvanized studs. So they simply never have a problem, even on my 400k mile factory freak.


Cool...pre-equipped with it's own antisieze. Pretty much explains why AS isn't a problem.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Anyone ever have wheels seize to the hub? That's not a fun one.


Yes, one wheel on my old Audi used to consistently do that. To make matters more fun, it didn't use studs, it used bolts. A few hits on the tire from the back with a hammer, and it would come off. That's where I put the antiseize - on the contact surface. That saved me later grief.
 
I always put anti-seize on the rear of the wheel before I remount any wheel. I have had a few wheels stuck to the hub and it is a PITA.

Grease everything!
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
^^^It would seem they underestimated the effect of galvanic corrosion...


They certainly did. It was just one wheel though, and every time I had to take it off, it was trouble, until I used the antiseize. I'm guessing the rear face of the wheel had been slightly marred at some point.

Taking wheels off in that vehicle was an adventure. You jack it too high, and three of the four wheels would come off far too easily, as in you'd have to be ready for it. For the other wheel, you had to grab the hammer.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
^^^It would seem they underestimated the effect of galvanic corrosion...


They certainly did. It was just one wheel though, and every time I had to take it off, it was trouble, until I used the antiseize. I'm guessing the rear face of the wheel had been slightly marred at some point.

Taking wheels off in that vehicle was an adventure. You jack it too high, and three of the four wheels would come off far too easily, as in you'd have to be ready for it. For the other wheel, you had to grab the hammer.



Yes, and complicated by that dorky bolt instead of a lug to hang on... the [censored] wheels drop right in your lap!
 
There is supposed to be a factory supplied dowel to assist in putting the wheel on. Of course, since I bought my Audi used, the dowel never made its way into my possession, nor did the jack, but that's another matter. So, I'd have to grab a screwdriver or large awl or something similar and struggle with it.
 
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