Lube new chain before using?

[zzyzzx]

Just replaced my driveline (rear cassette, middle chainring, rear derauiler jockey wheels, and chain). The chain was a SRAM-pc830. The box said that it was already lubed, so I added none (I did have to clean my hands afterwards, so there was something on the chain). On my first ride, for around the first 20 miles it made noise that kind of reminds one of a roller coaster when it's going uphill. It was super annoying, at least when there was no traffic passing by. The noise seemed to be coming from the lower jockey wheel. It's almost as if the lower jockey wheel needed to wear a little first, as the chain has issue dropping into the it, or maybe I should have lubed the chain first.

Did I make a mistake by not lubing the chain before use? Searching the internet suggests conflicting results.

I don't recall having this issue before as I have changed chains many times. The last time I changed a chain was in 2021 and I forget if I lubed that chain before use. If it matters this chain that I just installed was purchased in April 2021, as I keep a spare chain, just in case.

The only thing I did different this time that I can think if is that I used the SRAM PowerLink. I don't think that was an issue here.

 

[Urshurak776]

Maybe add a little lube and take it for a spin. If noise goes away, good to go. If not, then somethings up.....

 

[oil pan 4]

Chains are tough. If it's making noise it's likely the sound of a new chain on a not new sprocket.

 

[zzyzzx]

Chains are tough. If it's making noise it's likely the sound of a new chain on a not new sprocket.

If the noise hadn't stopped my next step would have been to reinstall a worn out jockey wheel, followed by a test ride.
And by worn out I mean one that looks like this:

That is what they typically look like before I replace a chain.

 

[supton]

Anything to do with bicycle chain lube borders on religion. Everyone has an opinion--and they are firmly set on it.

I just run them straight out of the package. I figure, that grease is well packed into the wear places, and me stripping it off in a cleaner then hitting it with regular lube is going to have less of the long lasting grease in there. But... boy is that packing grease a sand magnet! I can see why others would want to strip that off and apply a dry lube of choice, just dealing with that sticky mess.

I wonder if the jockey wheels are noisy, or if the chain is now out of alignment, maybe the cassette is no longer perfectly aligned?

 

[zzyzzx]

I wonder if the jockey wheels are noisy, or if the chain is now out of alignment, maybe the cassette is no longer perfectly aligned?

I wonder if I should have somehow lubed the jockey wheels. I definitely forgot to do that. Seemed to spin freely even without lube.

 

[Pablo]

That is SHARP idler wheel!

 

[MRC01]

Remember that SRAM uses the wide-fat teeth on the chainrings and derailleur jockey wheels. If you didn't align the jockey wheel teeth properly it will make noise and impair the shifting. Make sure the fat teeth go into the wide links!

Incidentally, that's why all the SRAM chainrings & wheels have an even tooth count.

You can remove the jockey wheels and lube the pivots inside, if you do then use a light-medium oil, not grease.

 

[Rand]

I lube my chains* in a bag of 75w90 gear oil or similar overnight.
Does it help any? or hurt any? who knows.



*Chainsaws.. bikes same thing right?

 

[Greenbeforeblue]

The first thing I do to a chain before I install it is clean off the sticky lube that comes from the factory. Then I lube it with one of two things depending on the use (wet or dry conditions). Wet conditions get Remington Rem Oil, dry gets Dupont chain wax. Yeah, I have different bikes for different things and weather conditions

 

[Nessism1]

Anything to do with bicycle chain lube borders on religion. Everyone has an opinion--and they are firmly set on it.

I just run them straight out of the package. I figure, that grease is well packed into the wear places, and me stripping it off in a cleaner then hitting it with regular lube is going to have less of the long lasting grease in there. But... boy is that packing grease a sand magnet! I can see why others would want to strip that off and apply a dry lube of choice, just dealing with that sticky mess.

I wonder if the jockey wheels are noisy, or if the chain is now out of alignment, maybe the cassette is no longer perfectly aligned?

Ha ha! So TRUE!

The quietest chain I've ever experienced, is a brand new one with factory lube! Yes, a grit magnet, though!

I'm using Squirt lube, which is fairly dry and waxy, and the best way to apply that is on a clean and dry chain.

I always install a master link, and when the chain is dirty, I remove it and put it into a shake bottle filled with mineral spirits. Shake, let soak, shake, etc, until the chain is clean. Hang to dry.

Lube with one dollop per roller.

Oh, and be sure to measure chain elongation regularly. When elongation over 10" or so reaches 1/2 of the pin diameter, replace the chain. This will allow you to reuse your cassette for a couple or three chains worth of miles.

 

[zzyzzx]

Remember that SRAM uses the wide-fat teeth on the chainrings and derailleur jockey wheels. If you didn't align the jockey wheel teeth properly it will make noise and impair the shifting. Make sure the fat teeth go into the wide links!

I don't understand this comment. A picture might be helpful. I have been using SRAM chains for a while (vastly superior to Shimano chains which normally break). Or do you mean I might need to rotate the jockey pulley by one tooth? Or are you saying that I should use a KMC or Shimano chain? I'd prefer to not use Shimano chains.

Incidentally, that's why all the SRAM chainrings & wheels have an even tooth count.

My bike has always used 10 tooth pulleys. Shimano Exage 500
Replacement is normally Shimano TY-05

 

[MRC01]

I don't understand this comment. A picture might be helpful. I have been using SRAM chains for a while (vastly superior to Shimano chains which normally break). Or do you mean I might need to rotate the jockey pulley by one tooth? Or are you saying that I should use a KMC or Shimano chain? I'd prefer to not use Shimano chains.

Yep [in bold face]. SRAM chainrings & pulleys do this to fit more snugly into the chain, reducing side to side engagement play. This improves chain retention during chain slap without the need for chain guides or clutches.

PS: if you use Shimano pulleys, this doesn't apply.

 

[zzyzzx]

Yep [in bold face]. SRAM chainrings & pulleys do this to fit more snugly into the chain, reducing side to side engagement play. This improves chain retention during chain slap without the need for chain guides or clutches.

PS: if you use Shimano pulleys, this doesn't apply.

So would you then recommend I used KMC chains in the future?

 

[MRC01]

Your OP mentioned SRAM so my comment was based on their equipment. The teeth on their chainrings and derailleur jockey wheels alternate wide-narrow and must match the chain links. If not, you get the problem you described.

If your bike has Shimano equipment, then the problem must have a different cause.

Either way, the chains aren't the issue. Shimano, SRAM and KMC all have compatible models. IME, the SRAM XX1 chain lasts about 3x longer than Shimano XTR in MTB applications.

 

[ET16]

Was the chain the same width as the old one?

 

[853okg]

Just replaced my driveline (rear cassette, middle chainring, rear derauiler jockey wheels, and chain). The chain was a SRAM-pc830. The box said that it was already lubed, so I added none (I did have to clean my hands afterwards, so there was something on the chain). On my first ride, for around the first 20 miles it made noise that kind of reminds one of a roller coaster when it's going uphill. It was super annoying, at least when there was no traffic passing by. The noise seemed to be coming from the lower jockey wheel. It's almost as if the lower jockey wheel needed to wear a little first, as the chain has issue dropping into the it, or maybe I should have lubed the chain first.

Did I make a mistake by not lubing the chain before use? Searching the internet suggests conflicting results.

I don't recall having this issue before as I have changed chains many times. The last time I changed a chain was in 2021 and I forget if I lubed that chain before use. If it matters this chain that I just installed was purchased in April 2021, as I keep a spare chain, just in case.

The only thing I did different this time that I can think if is that I used the SRAM PowerLink. I don't think that was an issue here.

Your issue is unrelated to chain lube. That’s all I’m sure about.
I’m pretty sure it isn’t a hanger alignment issue either, although it would be a good idea to check.
Almost certainly the noise is related to something you replaced. The chain, middle chainring, cassette, and especially the pulleys should be checked for proper installation. Maybe have a mechanic look at it.

 

[E150GT]

my wife got a new bike not too long ago. That thing was dry as a desert. I added lube to it. Cant hurt. Shifts much better. I cant believe the shop didn't lube it up.

 

[Nessism1]

What is the frequency of the abnormal noise. "sounds like a roller coaster going uphill" suggests it's more often than once per chain revolution? Does the noise occur regardless of what gear the bike is in on the cassette cluster? Try to isolate the noise to once per wheel revolution, once per chain revolution, something. Try different gears in back and see if the noise increases or decreases.

 

[georgemiller]

I wonder if I should have somehow lubed the jockey wheels. I definitely forgot to do that. Seemed to spin freely even without lube.

On my one bike the jockey wheel gets a little chirpy once in a while. I just apply a couple of drops of oil to where it spins and that solves the issue.