"Lube"? ... in a "Lube, Oil and Filter"

Status
Not open for further replies.
B

BigNick

Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Messages
178
Location
Ontario/Michigan
What exactly is "lubed"? What is used? Should I be doing it? (now that I do my own oil changes)

Some people told me "lube" only applies to older cars.. early 90's or older.. but I'm not sure.

I recently brought my car (01 Sebring) to my trusted mechanic for an oil change (was too cold to do it myself) and he made a comment on how he can tell I've been going to the dealer and that "it was dry, they don't lube anything at the dealers anymore", and that he lubed it. I was in a rush, so didn't get ask him about it.

Any info is appreciated...
 
Doors still need lubed. Sunroof (if you have one). Trunk/hatch hinges. Some parts of the brake system slide on metal rods, they need lubed.
 
Grease zerks!

some replacement u-joints need lubed, some suspension parts, drive train, etc..
 
Last edited:
Greasing zerks is the 'main' thing that 'lube' part means. Its from the old days, when you had to add grease to a ton of fittings under the car. Todays cars might have one or two, if any - most are sealed fittings.

Greasing door hinges, etc.....is an 'extra' that came along later.....
 
My 02 Cavalier has one one each strut arm whatever you call them.

My 77 Luv has more than I can count.

I also spray everything that moves with silicone.
 
A "Lubrication" also included checking the diff and the trans/ps/at on top of hitting the zerks. $3 on top of the oil and filter costs.
 
A lithium grease is what I've always used. Lubriplate in years past. Now I use Amsoil's Synthetic Multi-Purpose Spray Grease
 
You might have to go back to early 1970 cars to find ones that used Zerk fittings (e.g. VW Beetles that still used a design from the 1940s). But even back in the 1970s the "lube" part was something of a pretense -- a mysterious thing that increased the perceived value beyond the oil and filter.

The concept was that you pumped a little grease into each fitting. The squeezed the worst of the old, contaminated grease out the end of the bushing, leaving a fresher layer to act as a seal.

A bonus was the greasy mess that accumulated acted as a rust barrier. At least until the grease dissolved the paint, the oil rinses away, and the dirt that was attracted stuck around to hold moisture and encourage rust.
 
I remember this starting with my ford's, they came out with "lubed for life" fittings on the balljoints, and tierod ends.

When the lubricant dries up in the joint, it is the end of the life of the component in short order.

If you pay attention to aftermarket suspension parts, some of them come with zerk fittings. A lot of people who do work themselves think that this is a better way to go, and the part will last longer (assuming you keep grease in the joint).

I think that many of the manufacturers got rid of the zerk fittings to reduce the "total cost of ownership". If they can save 5 minutes per service, over the warranty "life" of the vehicle they can save quite a bit of time.

The last passenger car that I owned that had grease fittings on it was a 96 ford thunderbird. That may have had replacement ball joints on it, I do not remember if they even came like that from the factory.

Today, you aren't going to see grease fittings on most passenger cars. The only applications I can think of would be pickup trucks, or farm equipment. My last F150 (a 1998), had grease fittings on the pitman arm, both tierod ends, and even the driveshaft.

The key to putting grease into a joint is just to get it plump, don't squeeze too much grease out the side of the joint.
 
you can tell their focus by looking for Zerks.

My GMC fleet trucks, all 3500 Savanas and 1/2 ton Silverados, are covered in them. Grease often and you hardly ever need any front end work.

My Chrysler has none.
 
Wow! Never heard of Zerks before! I wonder how many grease points are on my car(s)? Checked the manual, didn't have any information!

Should I really be concerned with these? i.e. go out and buy a grease gun? (I do intend to keep all my cars "forever")
 
Don't use grease on door hinges.
All it does is stay on top and collect dirt.
It only looks like you did something - it's useless.

What you want is something that penetrates, so an oil is best.
Motorcycle chain lube is great. Sprays on thin, then the carrier evaporates to leave a very sticky lube.
 
I use Fluid Film on my hinges. It is lanolin based so it doesn't attract dirt like oil. Lasts a long time too. I drive an auto carrier and I used it on the winches. It lasted at least twice as long as anything else and that's severe service.
 
I have never lubed door hinges on any vehicle I've serviced.

On my Saturn, I installed a set of replacement Moog rear sway bar end links. These end links came with grease fittings.

The Moog Techline told me to grease them at every oil change, or about every 3,000 miles.

Despite their advice, I have only greased them twice in the last 30,000 miles and I have not had any issues. On the two occassions I greased them, the grease did not appear dry.
 
ive always used a old fasioned oil can with 10-40 valvoline for years for my tail gates and hinges.

however near the brakes on my sierra theres a couple of zerks
 
Last edited:
None of your vehicles originally came with grease fittings. I'm not sure about the Intrepid it might have one or two.
 
Originally Posted By: silverrat
None of your vehicles originally came with grease fittings. I'm not sure about the Intrepid it might have one or two.


Thanks for the heads up!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

C
Examples of "low quality" oil?
4 5 6
Replies
103
Views
11K
4WD
M
Kia K900 oil choice?
Replies
19
Views
681
shortyb
wemay
Friend uses Synblend/Conv in his 2024 Chevy Trax
Replies
13
Views
542
wemay
altaylar
Foaming & Ester Oil Concerns in 1990 Ferrari 348 with Cam Seal Leak
Replies
2
Views
262
Jetronic
tired
Help with recommendation for motor oil for Toyota and Nissan daily drivers
2 3
Replies
54
Views
6K
tired
Back
Top Bottom