Lube for drum/parking brake adjuster

[JHZR2]

What’s the right product to use on this?

PB works reasonably well. May adjust another few clicks, but figure it should be lubed before.

This is a parking brake drum inside a rotor hat.

 

[The_Jeff]

Take it apart, clean the (internal) threads, use the anti sieze or dry lube of your choice. What's important is getting rid of the cake of brake dust that invariably forms around and inside the things.

You can get it out easily, just stretch the shoes to expand the pictured spring and it'll fall out.

Is the photo weird or does that shoe not have much lining?

 

[WobblyElvis]

I have a tub of wide temp white lithium grease I use for this application. Works for me.

 

[wings&wheels]

As mentioned, clean then anti-seize. I prefer copper, but others will work.

 

[Nukeman7]

Take it apart, use Brakleen to clean it, dry with compressed air and re-lube with anti-seize paste (preferably nickel based).

 

[Jetronic]

anti-seize. I prefereed my copper based anti-seize because it never dries out, and doesn't swell rubber (the latter not important in this case)

 

[Jetronic]

Take it apart, clean the (internal) threads, use the anti sieze or dry lube of your choice. What's important is getting rid of the cake of brake dust that invariably forms around and inside the things.

You can get it out easily, just stretch the shoes to expand the pictured spring and it'll fall out.

Is the photo weird or does that shoe not have much lining?

parking brake only linings are extremely thin.

 

[JHZR2]

Take it apart, clean the (internal) threads, use the anti sieze or dry lube of your choice. What's important is getting rid of the cake of brake dust that invariably forms around and inside the things.

You can get it out easily, just stretch the shoes to expand the pictured spring and it'll fall out.

Is the photo weird or does that shoe not have much lining?

That’s the metal end of the shoe. The lining starts further on and is a few mm thick.

Cleaned threads, wiped with Krown oil and some c5 antiseize.

 

[D60]

I use the AC Delco silicone paste (shrug). No idea if that's correct but we also tend to get minimal corrosion due to near zero humidity

 

[Kestas]

I call this a high wash area. I usually use antiseize, though I would also consider using silicone grease.

 

[GSCJR]

Just a dab of bearing/chassis lube.

 

[JHZR2]

I’m doing another one today. Same deal.

This is a 1991 300D with 238k miles. I was getting a slight squeak after releasing the parking brake, and driving slow. It would go away after a block or two.

Applying the service brake wouldn’t make it stop, but applying the parking brake hard seemed to. I feel like the parking brake foot pedal goes too far.

But I pulled the rotors, thinks seem to be ok.

Other side was a bit closer to the rotor hat, I guess because it was harder to get the rotor off.

A lot more dust in the rotor hat. Maybe from me diagnosing the sound by actuating it.

Everything will get lubed up and hope for the best!

 

[JDenyer232]

If the parking brake is adjusted correctly but the parking brake pedal travels excessively you need to adjust the parking brake cable. They stretch out after years of use.

 

[JHZR2]

If the parking brake is adjusted correctly but the parking brake pedal travels excessively you need to adjust the parking brake cable. They stretch out after years of use.

I had my wife actuate the brake while I was working on both sides. Came to realize that the passenger side doesn’t actuate at all! So I think I’ll need to do some more work on the whole thing, starting with a new cable for that half. Only about $25 fortunately…

 

[JHZR2]

I call this a high wash area. I usually use antiseize, though I would also consider using silicone grease.

I’ve been thinking about this.

I’ve run CRC silaramic in certain applications for years.

I know permatex now also sells a ceramic silicone.

Is the best bet for high wash, running surfaces to have some solids as the interface (which could be anything from Moly paste to M-77 to silicone ceramic or ptfe grease to anti seize), it is it the actual lubricant media type?

Recently I saw someone using this on the touch points for drum brakes and parking brakes:

But that’s just a grease afaik, it’s not the ceramic fortified petroleum or silicone product. But perhaps it’s the bulk, not the dispersed solids that’s actually the key???

 

[Kestas]

The SDS for this product shows it contains 1% to 5% ethanediol (ethylene glycol), with no mention of the rest of the composition.
The TDS (Technical Data Sheet) only refers to it as a grease.

I personally feel antiseize would be best for this application. It contains metal flakes that are pure, soft metal to act as a solid lubricant should the carrier oil be washed out.

 

[JHZR2]

The SDS for this product shows it contains 1% to 5% ethanediol (ethylene glycol), with no mention of the rest of the composition.
The TDS (Technical Data Sheet) only refers to it as a grease.

I personally feel antiseize would be best for this application. It contains metal flakes that are pure, soft metal to act as a solid lubricant should the carrier oil be washed out.

Right, so point is the left behind solids.

Reason I ask is because I also have moly paste for big acme threads and chains, and marine grade anti seize which I think is a mixture of fluorite, talc, TiO2, etc…. and Honda M-77 which is intended for brakes as a sliding compound. If the desirement is a leave-behind solid lube, moly pasted may be too dry, but M-77 may be superior to anti seize (??).

 

[Kestas]

I suspect the moly is finely divided in the formula, and may not stick around in a washout application. Antiseize, which contains pure aluminum flakes, may gall to the surface and provide solid lubrication.

 

[JHZR2]

I suspect the moly is finely divided in the formula, and may not stick around in a washout application. Antiseize, which contains pure aluminum flakes, may gall to the surface and provide solid lubrication.

Thanks, that’s very interesting.

Based upon your feedback, I looked into antiseize a bit. Apparently there are coarser and finer grades, and copper anti seize products have larger particle sizes than others apparently.

Glock uses the Loctite C5-A I believe on their slides as a factory “lube”, so perhaps that’s the right answer!

 

[CleanSump]

Same rear brakes were on my '92. The cables rusted and stuck on one side, became quite sticky on the other, so replacement was needed. The shoes are a pain to replace as you have no room between the flange and back plate. Luckily, unless you drive with the parking brake on, the shoes last almost forever.