And in a stock, streeted car, it also lets more dirt through.
K&Ns are great for racing and marine applications where all you need a gravel catcher and flame arrestor.
LS430 - Sludge advice
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K&Ns are great for racing and marine applications where all you need a gravel catcher and flame arrestor.
Dirty instantly is a bit of an exaggeration (funnily enough I saw another thread with an LS430 owner that mentioned 'instant dirty oil') - To be clear, I really don't know what the condition of the engine is, other than:
i) Air filter was shockingly dirty;
ii) Spark plugs have seen at least 60k miles (possibly more!)
The concern is huge gaps in the documented (recent) service history.
On my to do list (in about this order):
i) Throttlebody clean
ii) MAF clean
iii) Rocker cover gaskets (will post pics in this thread of under the rocker covers when the gaskets arrive);
iv) Oil drain (shortened interval)
v) Another 'spill and fill' of the trans, most likely with the genuine Toyota ATF - its cheaper than Amsoil and from what I hear, quite good (unsure whether I should pull the pan and do the filter at some point)
vi) spark plugs
Did you decide what oil?
I think most here would suggest M1 0W-40, although that certainly wouldn’t be your only option.
M1 EP 10W-30 would be another fine choice.
Ive heard that the 0W-40 has some ester content, which helps clean. Not sure about the other M1 variants. I think I remember reading here that they all do.
This doesn’t prove Mobil 1 cleans lesser with a 5000 mile oci than five 1000 mile ocis.
I would have used it, but my stash is too big at the moment.
I will Shell Helix Ultra followed by Redline 5w40. How long the intervals are will depend on how the valve covers look when I pull them off
When I was in Australia a long time ago, while I did see a Mobil filling station, my uncle poured Valvoline 20W-50 into his Camry by the 4L jug. He got all his car stuff from Bumpa to Bumpa in the suburbs of Brisbane.
I did recall seeing Penrite and Castrol pushed at the filling stations.
Here's my guess on your situation / plan:
I bet when you remove a valve cover you'll find just the "yellow hue" of an in-service engine. Then you'll be happy.
Because the heads get hot, any real sludging will leave thick goo or 'chunks'. Again, I bet you don't find any.
Since spark plugs are on your proposed maintenance, why not get a compression tester (flexible rubber hose type) and take cold dry and cold wet readings? They always say it's the real check on an engine's health.
Then you can check the coolant's condition and refresh the brake fluid (and maybe even clean and lube the pins).
Vanquishing the "sludge bug" from your skull will free you.
I bet when you remove a valve cover you'll find just the "yellow hue" of an in-service engine. Then you'll be happy.
Because the heads get hot, any real sludging will leave thick goo or 'chunks'. Again, I bet you don't find any.
Since spark plugs are on your proposed maintenance, why not get a compression tester (flexible rubber hose type) and take cold dry and cold wet readings? They always say it's the real check on an engine's health.
Then you can check the coolant's condition and refresh the brake fluid (and maybe even clean and lube the pins).
Vanquishing the "sludge bug" from your skull will free you.
That is what valvoline was pushing to get one tester site to remove their warning. May be a synthetic LV vs a non synthetic HV but not a high end synthetic like TES 295 spec, Redline or Amsoil.
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I bought a used LT1 Trans Am. Had 149K miles on it. I did 500 mile oil change intervals on it for a couple thousand miles using Shell Rotella T 15-40. I drained near pudding out of there for the first 2 oil changes. Took it to 170K miles and sold it, no engine issues at all, and oil drains looked normal at that time.
Also, K&N air filters are terrible. Avoid that.
Also, K&N air filters are terrible. Avoid that.
I'm undecided as to whether I should use an engine flush!
Also recommend using OEM paper filter. The air filter massively affects contaminants in the oil. Otherwise just change the oil and filter at conservative intervals, like 2500 or 3k miles is what I would do initially for the first few rounds. The filter will filter.
Transmission - is there a filter screen? Drop the pan, clean out the gunk (might be a half inch deep), replace the screen or filter, and put in the factory stuff.
Transmission - is there a filter screen? Drop the pan, clean out the gunk (might be a half inch deep), replace the screen or filter, and put in the factory stuff.
This
K&N filters that are oiled can foul the MAF, yep.
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