Lots Of Questions (Lots)

Not open for further replies.
Jan 12, 2003
Ive been reading up here for a lil bit now, and this place is awesome. Tons of Information to be had. But that doesnt mean Im not without my Questions. So, you guys could confirm my Questions, that would be awesome. Here Goes-

From what I've read, It is bad to let your Car Idle in the Winter Time. So, I guess I just wont start my Trans Am in the winter, and Wait for Spring, when I take it out. Im assuming this info is the same with my Daily Driver too, my 4runner. So, I should just start it up, and drive immediatly, but just drive very easy?

In the winter here, its gets pretty cold. So Im running Castrol GTX 5w-30, with a M1 Oil Filter. From what Ive read, this filter is very good, and Castrol is a good Dino Oil. So, In the summer, Should I run 10w-30, or 10w-40. Im not crazy driver in the 4runner, because its not a fast car. So, under normal Driving, Im assuming 10w-30 should be fine. But, If I decide to take it offroading, should I change to something else?

In the summer Also, Im going to be using my Trans Am more. What do you reccomend for Oil Weight in that car? Its a big engine (400ci 6.6L) and it has 67k miles on it. Although Im not going to kick the crap out of this car, since it is in such good condition, chances are, it may make it to the drag strip 1 or 2 times, and driven a little quicker on the High Way. but thats a maybe, depending on how much $ I have for gas in this thing. Should I be ok with 10w-30 or 40, when at the strip? And At the end of the fall, since it wont be drive a whole lot during summer, Would it be ok to keep the oil filter, but just change the oil before I put it away. It wont be anywhere near its max limit.

Also, Ive become convinced that 3k oil changes is stupid. So, I suppose the Castrol and the M1 filter should go for 5k pretty easily , Correct?

This was never really answered in my last Post. I asked "Does Castrol GTX High Mileage contain stuff that swells your seals". Thats a bad thing if it contains it right? Because I was thinking of changing both my cars (4runner at 165k) over to that oil, if it is better than regular GTX.

I think thats all the questions I have, and That should hold me over for a while. I know its a huge post, but you guys are nice people, so i know youll answer it
Thanks a ton
The basic rule for warming an engine is to drive it gently as soon as it will drive. Don't let it idle to warm up any longer than necessary to make it drivable, and, of course, don't drive it hard when cold.

When you say Driveable, What does that mean? Should I let it idle for only a minute? Or just long enough for oil to get to the Valves and stuff.
Let it run for 30 seconds to a minute. Then drive it. Don't stomp it until the temp gauge is normal.
"Don't idle it at all, raw fuel washes cyl walls - not good. Immediately drive reasonably until warm.'

It was my understanding that this was truly mainly for carburated engines.

Fuel Injected engines so precisely meter air/fuel ratios that this problem has been eliminated. That is why back in the Detroit heydays "boring" and "hand-honing" your small blocks was common maintenence work on your ride.

EFI has enabled engine blocks to have very long lives. GM has a target engine life for thier motors at 250,000 miles. (assuming people give a care enough to use a good oil & change intervals)

Cylinder Washing is the least of your concerns on a modern engine. However some posts indicate here that the Forerunner has a sludge problem

I am sure Auto-RX can fix that
Yes the Mobil 1 Oil filter is a good choice and so is the Castrol GTX Dino you are using. A 10W-30 should work fine in your climate. The 10W-30 should also work fine for offroading. I have an 00 Wrangler and I wheel it about every weekend.

I would lean toward the 10W-40 for the summer months and if you are planning to take your Trans Am to the drag strip. It sounds like your storing your car in the winter so I would change both oil and filter before storage and then it will be ready next spring when it's time to take her out again. Although GTX and M1 filter are a good combo I would be leary of pushing them to 5K miles unless your doing mostly highway driving and the car is not sitting for long periods of time.
For the 4 runner that sounds like a good plan, going 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer.

Doing 5k changes is probably doable but do an oil analysis to be sure. If you don't want to do analysis, go with 4k intervals on it.

For the TA you might find the 10w40 will work best, although if you use the GTX 10w30 HM oil, it's a very high 30wt, almost 40, so that should be good.

Like all HM oils it probably contains about 10% esters in it's base oil. This will slightly swell the seals but not by a huge amount so it won't cause any harm. Keep in mind most (if not all) true full synthetics contain some esters.

When it comes to that fall oil change, do the oil filter too, since you don't want to have that 1/2 qt of dirty oil left behind in there, as that will contain acids and other nasty stuff which can attack the metal during the long storage period. You want to have the freshest oil possible before you put the car away. And yes, definitely do NOT start and idle it during winter storage.
hey, thanks alot guys. That helped out alot!

Its kinda weird how you guys are telling me not to let my car Idle, because Growing up, Thats all I saw my parents and other people do. (Keep in mind Im only 17). Mainly, it was done so that we had heat in the winter, when we got into the car. So, I guess if I want heat when I get in, Ill just have to invest in an Oil Heater.

I dont think Ill be doing an Oil Analysis, so I will cut down to 4k oil changes, instead of 5.

Thanks again, you guys (and gals) are great.

Originally posted by PontTransAm1978:
"Does Castrol GTX High Mileage contain stuff that swells your seals".

that's funny.

about the idling question, from what I've gathered it's best to only let it idle a few minutes to guarantee oil is circulating throughout the motor before you drive. Driveability usually means until all idiot lights on the dash turn off, which should be less than 2 seconds after you start it. Still, I prefer a minute or so or until I see the temp guage starting to move (still less than the 100 mark). Just don't romp on it hard till it's fully warmed up. Another thing to think about that I've come across on a diesel truck site that supports the driving immediately but easy theory is that the rest of the drivetrain (tranny and gearboxes) are also oil lubricated and cold. Letting a motor warm up completely and thinking you're good to haul *** is a bad thing because now your putting undue stress on all the other drivetrain parts- best to warm everything up together nice and easy.
to give you an idea I have a 2002 Camaro with a six speed, and with the 20F weather here lately I cannot shift the thing when it's cold into first from neutral when stopped, or from 1st to 2nd. I found idling 3-5 minutes when the car's really cold in neutral with the clutch out helps significantly.

that 400ci 6.6L, is that a oem/factory motor, what does the manual call for? or is it a built up motor? if so then I would ask the builder and see what they recommend, but usually a 40wt oil covers everything especially when it has miles on it, maybe look into mobil 15w40 synthetic or something equivalent.

don't swell your seals man

[ January 17, 2003, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: 1 FMF ]
The TA motor Is Factory, completely Stock. I guess 10w-40 is gunna do it for that engine. I dont think it burns any oil, but im not postive either.

Right now it has SuperTech Oil in it, with a Fram (Ugh) filter. I put this oil in last september. Do you think I should Change the Oil and Filter now, or just wait untill spring time.


Originally posted by PontTransAm1978:
Right now it has SuperTech Oil in it, with a Fram (Ugh) filter. I put this oil in last september. Do you think I should Change the Oil and Filter now, or just wait untill spring time.

I'd change it now if for no other reason than to get that Fram off of there!
Not open for further replies.