Looking for some Turbo car advice!

[Xipher]

Hello,

Yesterday I acquired a very nice, clean 1991 Mazda 626 GT with a 2.2L Turbocharged (intercooled) engine mated to a standard transmission. The car has 206,850 miles on it and says the it requires "API-SF" certified oils in 5w-30 or 10w-30 weights. I also live in Northern California, where the temperature can range from 38F in the morning, to 82F in the evening in one day.

My question is this, its the first turbo car I've ever owned, I picked up a "Mobile 1" filter (made them take the Fram back...)and five quarts of Castrol GTX(10w-30), just the normal standard stuff!! After I purchased it, I noticed that it says nothing about the API-SF standard (it adheres to the API-SM, etc standards though) and this worried me a little, of course it says below that it will work in all passenger vehicles including those that are turbo charged, but is it OK for my vehicle? I don't mind going out and paying $6/qrt to get the right stuff, but I'm weary of putting synthetics in it, last vehicle I switched to synth started leaving *puddles* of oil, no joke, it got out of the engine as fast as could be! The PO of this vehicle mentioned in passing he was using synthetic on it, and its /REALLY/ clean with no leaks that I can find, but I also suspect that it might be using a tad bit of oil although he said he never had to top it up between 5k changes. He had not owned the vehicle very long it seemed, and probably with 5k services had done only 3-4 changes since owning the vehicle I would imagine...

Enlighten me, its very important to me that this vehicle stays in tip top shape, so I'm bowing to the vast knowledge that is the BITOG...

 

[digitalSniperX1]

I'm pretty sure API standards are backwards compatible. SM will make for a better SF for example.

If you're going to go to a lower cost synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum is great and highly popular here. I use it in my wife's Acura RDX and I'm pretty sure I like it better than Mobil 1 of the same viscosity.

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: Xipher
I picked up a "Mobile 1" filter


It's a knock-off of the real thing.

 

[steve20]

Correct-SM is backwards compat with all previous SAE motor oils. I had a turbo Buick (remember the Grand National?)and they can run very hot when the turbo has been working. If it were me, I'd use a synthetic-not really important which one you use,-Mobil 1, PEnnzoil Platinum, Valvoline Synpower Q-Horsepower etc the oils in this group are equals. Look for one on sale.
A word of advice about the turbo- if you've been using the turbo and are about ready to shut the engine down, let it idle for a minute or so- this time allows for the turbo bearing to 'spin down' and cool off. Shutting the car down immediately after a hard turbo run leaves the turbo and bearing still spinning several thousand RPM. In normal use though, you can shut her right doiwn.
Good Luck with your new car

 

[rg200amp]

SF rated oil was back in the early 90's. that at the time of your car being made was the best oil out.

Now we have gone through all the way up to rated SM oils(the newest rated oils out)

I would never use SF oil when the new SM oil is almost 10x better.

with a turbo car, i would use nothing but synthetic oil.

Mobil 1, pennzoil Platnium are what I would recomend to you. I would use Pennzoil Platnium in your motor.


Dont worry about useing synthetic oils, the old"synthetics cause leaks" is a old wives tale. synthetic oil on a extremely rare chance, will leak, but its not the oil causing it, its a problem with the seal, or motor that needs to be addressed.


Nice car, and with timely oil changes with quality synthetic oil, you should do fine.

 

[Xipher]

Thanks for all the advice, I suppose now I should go back and get a full synthetic instead. I wonder if they'll complain about me returning the oil...

The comment on the Mobile 1 Filter, I don't quite understand, I thought that these filters were of high density and good quality elements and construction from the people that had cut them and taken a look... my choices were Fram, Bosch, and the Mobile 1, the Bosch filters seem pretty nice and I ran through probably 6 of them on my old 92 GTI, but I still thought the Mobile 1 filters were considered to be pretty top rate in the retail market, correct me if I'm wrong, I really do want the best for this car!

*whoops, edit!*

Heh! I thought much the same about synthetics and leaks... till I poured full synth in my clean 944, and it literally within a week started pouring oil out of every seal I could see... if you guys say synth for this car, synth it gets, I'm up for suggestions, and I understand that you guys have far greater knowledge of the chemistry and experience on motor oils than I.

 

[OVERKILL]

The poking fun is because of your spelling; you are writing Mobil as "Mobile"

 

[Solo2driver]

^^^^ the comment was directed at your spelling...it's "Mobil 1" not Mobile....like a Rodex watch, or Sorny TV. Just not the same.

Synthetic oil is a must. I just looked at an '88 MX-6 GT (2.2L Turbo), and had to add 2.5 quarts of oil for the poor kid before I turned him away. This stuff is kind of important

 

[rg200amp]

Originally Posted By: Xipher
Thanks for all the advice, I suppose now I should go back and get a full synthetic instead. I wonder if they'll complain about me returning the oil...

The comment on the Mobile 1 Filter, I don't quite understand, I thought that these filters were of high density and good quality elements and construction from the people that had cut them and taken a look... my choices were Fram, Bosch, and the Mobile 1, the Bosch filters seem pretty nice and I ran through probably 6 of them on my old 92 GTI, but I still thought the Mobile 1 filters were considered to be pretty top rate in the retail market, correct me if I'm wrong, I really do want the best for this car!

*whoops, edit!*

Heh! I thought much the same about synthetics and leaks... till I poured full synth in my clean 944, and it literally within a week started pouring oil out of every seal I could see... if you guys say synth for this car, synth it gets, I'm up for suggestions, and I understand that you guys have far greater knowledge of the chemistry and experience on motor oils than I.


The synthetic, with its higher detergent package must of *cleaned away some grime around seals that dino oil caused after it was used past its prime in your 944.
The synthetic oil just showed you the problem.

I would use Synthetic oil in your car with out a worry.


If you want to know exactly whats going on with your ride, get a UOA done.
Its where you send your used motor oil(sample) to a lab, and they will tell you exactly whats up with your motor, and how its wearing.



Have you or the PO changes the tranny fluid?
perhaps a full tune up would do the car some good!


Good luck with your new ride!
and

to BITOG

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: Xipher
I picked up a "Mobile 1" filter


It's a knock-off of the real thing.

Sort`ve like the Alfine car stereos you see at the flea markets

 

[Xipher]

Doh! guess I should pay more attention on brandings... yes a "Mobil 1" filter

The car has new plugs, wires, distro-cap, fresh tranny oil, water pump, timing belt, whole nine yards, I was told the oil was very recently changed, but it IS a used car so I want to change it myself and know when the next change is down to the last mile

 

[Xipher]

Lets see...

Mobil 1

Valvoline Synpower

Pennzoil Platinum

Those are my choices at the local markets for full synth, Mobil 1 being $7/qt, the others being $6.75/qt

What would you go for? Or would you go for a synth blend... this is the life blood of the engine, so really, price should be of no concern, its a factor, but if there IS a benefit, I'm all for it! I don't know if I'll get burned at the stake for this, last time I was here the EXTRA LONG OCI's were all the rage, but this oil /might/ /maybe/ /barely if that/ be in there 3,000mi before I get antsy and change it out, its sure done wonders on other cars I've had, and the 12k intervals on my parents 94' 626 have turned it from a smooth going ride to a ticking mess... not my doing!

People still raving about Auto-RX? I bought like 10 bottles of it a long time ago, used it in every car... seemed to do the trick, but again, last I heard, people were /really/ unsure of putting it in turbo motors, and it also sorta doesn't work at all with synthetics... there goes that idea, engine is shiny bright under the filler cap anyways!

 

[TallPaul]

At the price of off-the-shelf synthetics these days, might as well spend the couple extra dollars for Redline. Much better for the turbo.

So I am losing my keester in the stock market but at least I am sitting on a gold mine of clearance bought oil that has doubled in price.

 

[MI_Roger]

I just clicked over 234,000 miles this morning on my drive to work, and the car still has the original Turbo. Car is a 2000 Saab 9-5 which I bought new.

My engine has only seen synthetic oil since new; primarily Mobil-1, some Shell Rotella-T, and for the past year or more ELF/Total brand. Initially I used 10W/30 as per the manufacturer's recommendation, switched to 0W/40 for a very brief period, but have used 5W/40 for the past 3+ years. I had an oil analysis done in March of this year with no indication of any engine wear.

BTW - I also change the oil at 5,000 mile intervals. I am sure this revelation will cause lots of responses!

 

[Max_Wander]

I'd go with MaxLife 10w30. I've had a couple of those F2T engined Mazdas and they get along fine on almost anything. I used to run anything from 10w30 mineral to 5w50 synthetic, and hever had a problem with lubrication. In fact one of them I bought that had been badly neglected so much that the prev owner let an exhaust lifter collapse, hammer away and eventually cracked the rocker arm. He still continued to drive it with the Cyl #1 Exh. valve NOT opening at all...before I bought it like this, I test drove it. Took a while to spool but it still pulled like a scalded rabbit on 3 cylinders. I just replaced that rocker arm and cleaned out some gunk, and continued to drive that engine for years until I sold it again. It never burned a drop! Those engines are rock solid, man. Good luck and enjoy the torque

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: steve20
Correct-SM is backwards compat with all previous SAE motor oils. I had a turbo Buick (remember the Grand National?)and they can run very hot when the turbo has been working. If it were me, I'd use a synthetic-not really important which one you use,-Mobil 1, PEnnzoil Platinum, Valvoline Synpower Q-Horsepower etc the oils in this group are equals. Look for one on sale.
A word of advice about the turbo- if you've been using the turbo and are about ready to shut the engine down, let it idle for a minute or so- this time allows for the turbo bearing to 'spin down' and cool off. Shutting the car down immediately after a hard turbo run leaves the turbo and bearing still spinning several thousand RPM. In normal use though, you can shut her right doiwn.
Good Luck with your new car


In my GN I wait until I put it in park and then start rolling the windows up before shutting the engine off. This gives me about 2 minutes of cool off time.

 

[Xipher]

I'm taking good care of it I'm giving it time to kick down to low idle before driving it, as I do on every car I've ever owned (yes, even the one that took 5 minutes to do so!) and I'm waiting probably a good 2 minutes of idling to shut the car down too. I try to take very good care of things... a lot

Anyways!

I went back and returned the dino and exchanged it for 10w-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic to use with the Mobil 1 filter, should be able to change the oil tomorrow!

 

[TurboLuver]

I think you made a good decision. I personally would never use anything but synthetic in a turbo application.