First turbo vehicle for me....oil thoughts?

My Kia lives near 40w and it's a 2.0MPI.. The Amsoil 0w30 Euro clocks 12.3cst@100. It's a thickie compared to the Amsoil Signature Series 0w30, which is right around 10.5@100.
If I had the turbo, 0w40 winter and 5w40 summer. Probably Mobil-1 Euro in SP cert.

ZZMan.....
Have that catalytic converter checked out. Odds are a ton of used oil from prior failed engine made a mess in there. It may be near-shot and they're expensive to replace.
 
HPL PCEO 5W-30/40 with a fram endurance filter.
take a sample at 6K and send to wear check to check for fuel dilution. if fuel dilution can be managed i’d say try for 12k OCI’s like i am on the accord.
I like this suggestion, it gives the ole Santa Fe its best chance at a normal life.
 
I've had a few boosted cars. Still have two. Don't drive them hard in cold Wx until they've warmed up. Don't rip on them too much when they're really hot. Never had to replace one. Otherwise,

Keep calm and spool on!
 
We just bought a 2015 Santa Fe with the 2.0 GDI turbo. I have never owned a turbo car before. Of course I find out these engines have issues with oil consumption and bearing failure. The engine has been replaced (Long block).

So I am a full syn, better filter 5,000 mile oci guy on my previous vehicles. The vehicle won't be abused and might see 7,000 miles a year.

I am seriously considering running either Amsoil or HPL in it as an extra cushion of protection. Your oil thoughts please?
Are you in the UP? I’m obviously on board with Amsoil and HPL if you’re good with cost. However, if it’s garaged and not short-tripped, I’d think the upper shelf oils at WM will probably do just fine. If it’s not garaged, and you’re north of Detroit, make sure you go with a 0w. Considering the H/Ks haven’t had the best record on engines, I’d also personally go up a grade.
 
Are you in the UP? I’m obviously on board with Amsoil and HPL if you’re good with cost. However, if it’s garaged and not short-tripped, I’d think the upper shelf oils at WM will probably do just fine. If it’s not garaged, and you’re north of Detroit, make sure you go with a 0w. Considering the H/Ks haven’t had the best record on engines, I’d also personally go up a grade.
Lower Michigan. No garage, it will definitely be mostly short tripped.
I am usually price conscious but being this will need few oil changes a year, is a turbo and GDI, it isn't a deal breaker.
 
My Kia lives near 40w and it's a 2.0MPI.. The Amsoil 0w30 Euro clocks 12.3cst@100. It's a thickie compared to the Amsoil Signature Series 0w30, which is right around 10.5@100.
If I had the turbo, 0w40 winter and 5w40 summer. Probably Mobil-1 Euro in SP cert.

ZZMan.....
Have that catalytic converter checked out. Odds are a ton of used oil from prior failed engine made a mess in there. It may be near-shot and they're expensive to replace.
I hope it was one of the engines that failed suddenly instead of used oil a lot and then failed.
 
Odds are, it died a slow death. Take it to a muffler shop. They have tools for a look-see inside it. They can guesstimate how much (hypothetical) sand is left in it's upper hour-bulb.

if the news is short-term terminal, put it up for sale ASAP.
 
Any synthetic you choose. IF you are a limited mileage traveler,
stay with the recommended weight, if you are a long distance traveler..
bumping up the weight of your chosen synthetic, will not hurt a thing.
 
run any 5w-30,in my chevy trax turbo,i have Royal Purple PCMO, 5w-30 in now ,and also have run Havoline pro-ds both work fine, with Fram Ultra filter.
 
Well then enlighten me? I’ve worked at a whole lot of manufacturer dealerships and Hyundai and Kia are by far the worst engines ever.
They all do. . . that's my point. I represent only 3 data points--I've owned three Hyundais over 15 years, two currently still in my "fleet". All have been reliable and very economical to own. I've had ONE major problem with the 2019 in my signature--an early transmission problem that was addressed with a transmission replacement--no problems since. The 2014 in my signature is powered by the supposedly most-fragile engine in the H/K lineup, the 2.0L GDI-Turbo--that engine currently has over 100,000, mostly short-tripped miles since new--it runs like new, pulls like a freight-train and doesn't burn ANY oil. The only things replaced in that vehicle have been the oil, brakes and tires. Yup, some H/K vehicles have problems out of the gate, just like any other manufacturer, but overall my experience with Hyundai has been very good. I'll likely buy another at some point.
 
When I worked for Peugeot, and when I worked as a Bus mechanic, engine replacements where virtually unheard of. 1 per year, tops.

When I worked for the hyundai dealership (slightly less turnover as the peugeot place) we almost constantly had a car in for engine replacement.
 
I'm also in a similar situation with my first turbocharged car (a Hyundai). I chose HPL NO VII to clean out the deposits in the rings and turbo. At least for the first couple OCIs on a used car I think it's an excellent idea to clean the engine and turbo.
Fred, could you help me and tell me what HPL NO VII means. Got a feelin' I'm going to need it "down the road" a bit. Thank You!
 
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