Looking for opinions on new engine issue

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Good afternoon everyone!

I've started getting a misfire on Cyl-2 on my Fusion. This started abruptly approximately 8-9 days ago. Here are the details:

I use Torque Pro with a bluetooth OBD-II adapter to get engine data.

- The car is still driveable. I still am able to drive it the 110 miles, round trip, to work, about 90-95% of which is highway.
- When the engine is cool, especially when idling, I get the highest misfire percentage. Latest numbers are somewhere around 200-300 misfires in a 5-10 minute drive after the car has been sitting overnight or during a workday.
- On the drive either to or from work, over an approximately 60-90 minute drive (~95%), misfire count reaches between 250 and 350.
- Catalytic converter temperatures do seem somewhat elevated, especially under acceleration.
- Fuel economy does not seem to have dropped a lot. Maybe 5% at most.
- There is no oil in the coolant, and the oil is fairly dark but clear and not in any way cloudy or milky. (~6000 miles on the oil).
- The car drives fine, even with A/C on, at cruising speeds around 70-75MPH.. just a few misfires, roughly in the range of 5-15 per refresh cycle (approximately 4 mins)
.. with the exception of noticeable but fairly minor shudder around 60-65MPH, in the 1600-1800 RPM range under load.
- UOAs have indicated essentially no fuel dilution

I had the car in at the dealership for my airbag recall, and asked them to have a mechanic run a diagnostic to see if he can pinpoint the issue. The service writer called me about 30 minutes ago and told me that the mechanic noted that there was no compression in cylinder 2.

Now, I'm not a professional mechanic, but it seems to me that if there were NO compression in cylinder 2, my misfire counts would be off the charts for that cylinder, and over the course of a 60-90 minute drive home, would be MUCH higher than 250-350. I brought this up to her and asked if the mechanic had even, or could run dry/wet compression tests on the cylinder, as well as a pressure test on it with the piston TDC. She said she would check and call me back.

............

So.. here's where I ask for input.

1 - Based on the above information, would you say that a diagnosis of "No compression" is even remotely accurate, or would you say it's more likely to be "low compression"
2 - Do you have any thoughts as to what the issue could actually be? My gut says that it is not the rings, since ring wear should come on as a more gradual change, and not a sudden increase in misfires along with a sudden drop in compression.
3 - What would your next steps be?
4 - Any additional thoughts?
 
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I would do a Leak Down test......Though it's absolutely amazing how many "Mechanics" have no idea how to perform such a basic task.

Ford Coils are notorious for failure, If you can't get satisfactory service from the mechanic.......
*Swap #2 Plug & Coil with cylinder #4.
#1/#4....&....#2/#3 are companion cylinders, Don't swap suspect coils with a companion cylinder!
 
The converter is going to burn up if you keep driving with a misfire.

The new quick and dirty "compression test" is to disable fuel / ignition so it will crank but not start, then watch the starter current with an oscilloscope (magnetic probe clamped onto battery cable). There should be four roughly equal peaks corresponding to each cylinder reaching TDC. If one of them is low or flat, that means some sort of internal mechanical problem that will almost certainly be expensive.
 
with 273 thou on it it could be many things. no mechanic either but i would question their diagnosis as well + although the stealer has all the right tools etc for your car i would look for a second opinion at a trusted independent shop. if its that bad + you want to keep your car rebuilt engines are likely available.
 
Start the car from cold and feel the exhaust manifold to see if one cylinder stays cold longer than the others. Swap the #2 coil and plug to another cylinder and see if the problem moves.
 
Do you have platinum or iridium spark plugs? I've seen the "pad" on the side electrode fall off, increasing the gap by quite a bit. The engines run "ok" but have similar symptoms to what you are describing.

I also had a cracked piston that behaved a lot like that as well, but as others mentioned a good old fashioned compression check with a gauge and a leak down test will tease that out in a hurry.
 
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Did they do an actual compression check or a relative compression test through the IDS?



Let's hope not....Sure, I get the concept, It can compare crankshaft speed variances to the compression events. I use my ears to do that on Diesel engines all the time, Though I don't know what cylinder it is without the scan tool telling me the low contributing cylinder.
Lets say you have a 6.0L Powerstroke with a #2 low contributing cylinder fault......Then I listen to the sound of the engine cranking.

Young mechanics put to much faith in scan tools, They are there to HELP you, Not do your whole job!
 
Suspect this is an old fashioned mechanical problem and a compression test and leakdown test is where to start. Since no high oil consumption then valves perhaps.
 
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I would want some numbers to go with that techs explanation of "no compression"
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
I would do a Leak Down test......Though it's absolutely amazing how many "Mechanics" have no idea how to perform such a basic task.

Ford Coils are notorious for failure, If you can't get satisfactory service from the mechanic.......
*Swap #2 Plug & Coil with cylinder #4.
#1/#4....&....#2/#3 are companion cylinders, Don't swap suspect coils with a companion cylinder!


+1
 
Originally Posted by The Critic
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...on-on-cylinder-1-taking-bets#Post4346512

When this incident occurred, how was the issue resolved? Was a full valve job performed?

Based on the information so far, I would perform a real compression and leakdown test.

I figured someone would mention that. The dealership sent the head off to a machine shop to have the work done. My instructions for them was to replace the affected valve and then do a full inspection/evaluation of the remaining valves and hardware and replace anything else that they determined was necessary. All I know is that the affected exhaust valve on Cyl 1 was replaced. I was advised nothing else required replacement.

Honestly, I've second guessed myself a couple times as to why I didn't just tell them to do any necessary cleanup of the valve seats and replace all the valves. I'm sure I had my reasons.
Unfortunately, the warranty on the valve/head work was 2 years and 36,000 miles.. and that was just a little over 2 years ago, and 60,000 miles ago, so the warranty has expired on that work anyways.

Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Did they do an actual compression check or a relative compression test through the IDS?

As I understand it, this was just the IDS test (most likely a Mode $06), and did not include any of what I consider to be standard physical diagnostics, including leak-down and wet/dry compression tests. No borescope inspection either, as far as I can tell. I advised her to have him do so if he had not done them already.

Originally Posted by clinebarger
I would do a Leak Down test......Though it's absolutely amazing how many "Mechanics" have no idea how to perform such a basic task.

Agreed. I've advised them I want them to do more testing. I have a feeling I will end up taking the car to a local independent shop for more (proper) diagnostics.

Originally Posted by clinebarger
Ford Coils are notorious for failure, If you can't get satisfactory service from the mechanic.......
*Swap #2 Plug & Coil with cylinder #4.
#1/#4....&....#2/#3 are companion cylinders, Don't swap suspect coils with a companion cylinder!

I actually replaced all 4 coils 2 years ago, just prior to the head/valve work, while I was chasing the Cylinder 1 issue. This past weekend, as part of my troubleshooting the Cylinder 2 issue, I actually did a coil swap, and even swapped back in the old coils (from 2 years ago) for good measure. No change.

Originally Posted by mk378
The converter is going to burn up if you keep driving with a misfire.

I have been monitoring Cat temps with my Torque Pro app as I have been driving. It rarely went over 1450F and has not exceeded 1500 degrees, with the exception of one occasion it went to about 1505 for about 2 or 3 seconds. As I understand it, Cats can get as high as 1600 for short periods without damage.

Originally Posted by mk378
The new quick and dirty "compression test" is to disable fuel / ignition so it will crank but not start, then watch the starter current with an oscilloscope (magnetic probe clamped onto battery cable). There should be four roughly equal peaks corresponding to each cylinder reaching TDC. If one of them is low or flat, that means some sort of internal mechanical problem that will almost certainly be expensive.

Wish I had the equipment for this. I understand the methodology, but I do not have an oscilloscope with which to do the testing.

Originally Posted by MichiganMadMan
Do you have platinum or iridium spark plugs? I've seen the "pad" on the side electrode fall off, increasing the gap by quite a bit. The engines run "ok" but have similar symptoms to what you are describing.

New Motorcraft SP530 Iridium plugs went into the engine this past weekend. Was really hoping this was the case, as the old plugs were NGK 5019 platinum plugs with 60,000 miles on them. They were certainly worn, but changing them did not help.

Originally Posted by MichiganMadMan
I also had a cracked piston that behaved a lot like that as well, but as others mentioned a good old fashioned compression check with a gauge and a leak down test will tease that out in a hurry.

Agreed. We'll see what they say, if they're actually willing to do it. I'm thinking I'll probably end up taking it to the local independent shop for this.
 
Do the compression test yourself, it's super easy. You can rent the tool for free at Auto Zone/O'Reilly's.

I'd recommend renting 2 of them, I rented one and tested my Jeep and it was saying I had like 35-50 psi in all the cylinders... uh, what? Then I got another one and they were more like 150 psi.
 
Okay, update.

Just got a call from the dealership. The mechanic apparently did a wet and dry compression test. Dry was 160psi, wet was 185. Hardly zero compression. Also, for a car with 273,000 miles, I'd expect compression to be a little bit low. They did not, however, run a leak-down test. I have asked the service writer to have him do one, since it won't take long and could point to a valve, which would be far easier and cheaper to repair than rings.
 
If those numbers are in line with the other cylinders, it seems to be in spec and there isn't a compression problem. Thus you would look again at the fuel and ignition systems.
 
I've seen a stretched timing belt show codes like this. Mine had an occasional stumble at idle but ran and drove fine with no mpg hit. Fixed it by accident while replacing the water pump before the 2nd belt was due.
 
Alright, new update. Got them to provide full compression numbers as well as a leakdown. Here is what they said:

Cyl 1 - 189
Cyl 2 - 160 (dry) - 182 (wet)
Cyl 3 - 195
Cyl 4 - 195

"Completed leak-down test, found leak coming through crankcase, as well as cylinder 4 and slightly cyl 3. Recommend Teardown"
 
So.. based on the above information, it would appear that the issue is likely the rings in Cylinder 2. Which begs the question... if this is the case, what is exactly going on with the rings? The obvious would be "caked with carbon".. but I'm not a professional mechanic.

.. So.. show of hands.. who thinks it might be worthwhile to do a piston soak on Cylinder 2? If so, what would you suggest as the best fluid to soak it with?
 
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