Opinion - Warranty Dash Rattle, working with Dealer

[to_oilcheck]

I have a 2024 Infiniti QX60. Since new, it has had a left a pillar/dash rattle: only in warm Temps, after driving for 10 Mins, 95% of the time, the rattle will occur. Only on smooth roads, at the slightest road vibration.

Working with one dealer, they acknowledged the noise on a test drive, as well as a video. Though when I drop it off for a mechanic to troubleshoot, it gets signed off as no faults found.

I appreciate it is under warranty, and it is 'the dealers problem', though a flat rate mechanic on warranty pay may induce issues to become my problem down the road.

I wanted to get opinions from other gear heads.

My plan is to request test drives with mechanics/ Forman rather than the advisors, and drop off the same day. I can replicate the issue during the warm weather on all sunny (hot) days. If the dealer says they can only disassemble / remove the dash to progress on a guess, i will then go to a different dealer. Hoping I come across a mechanic who has experienced the issue.

There are no TSBs, though a handful of reports of the same issue on forums, with no conclusion. I do not believe my dealer contacted their support line.

The good news it is a cosmetic noise, and as bizarre as it sounds, seems to get less and less over the last 2 years.

Please let me know if you have any other suggestions. As much as I want to stop the noise, I have learned to be careful what I wish for, and just leave things alone.

 

[dishdude]

This is one of those things you just learn to live with. Turn the radio up. Tearing into the dash is bound to cause even more rattles and noises.

 

[The_Jeff]

Saturn fixed a similar problem with double sided foam sticky tape stuck in a strategic location listed in a TSB.

But realistically a "creative" mechanic could just go in and do this everywhere. It wouldn't be right, but it would be quiet.

 

[PWMDMD]

I have had mixed results with rattles being fixed.

Good:
I had a 2011 Acura TL SH-AWD that had a rattle/ticking sound that came from the moonroof over hard bumps. I mentioned it when the car was in for something else and to my surprise they called to tell me there was a faulty weld around the moonroof and that they'd like to keep the vehicle and have some engineers come out to look at it. They kept the car for 4 weeks and used it to troubleshoot and come up with a fix that got implemented at the factory.

My current 2019 RX 350 had a horrible passenger side door rattle with audio playing. I thought there was a blown speaker but to my surprise the speaker was fine and this was a known issue. Lexus issued a TSB with a foam kit that the dealership happily installed under warranty and it got rid of the rattles.

Bad:
My 2020 Tundra has roughly 8 distinct rattles at 70k miles - the interior is ⅔ cheap plastic. I've learned to turn the volume up because they come from all different directions and I just don't want them tearing into everything.

That same 2019 RX 350 no longer has the door issue, but it too has about 10 different rattles at 75k miles. Again, not my car and they don't bother my wife so no big deal.

The 2025 Subaru Forester has 2 or 3 rattles with a very loud driver's side door rattle. I don't drive it enough to care at this point, but will mention it next time it goes in.

Out of all my current vehicles, only the 2022 Kia Soul is rattle free - go figure. But every vehicle I've ever owned has developed rattles over the first 1-3 years. It's the nature of plastic on plastic interiors.

 

[Passport1]

Interior rattles are frequently the result of several disparate materials unhappily mated together. They expand/contract at different rates hot/cold and will announce their disagreements causing the issue. Test this theory when the temps change. If correct then agree with the above that the radio volume adjust knob is the seasonal anodyne.

 

[Carmudgeon]

As much as I want to stop the noise, I have learned to be careful what I wish for, and just leave things alone.

This.

Otherwise it's a lottery.

A good, conscientious tech may be able to find and remedy the noise.

A bad one may dirty the parts, and/or make things worse during diagnosis, and still not be able to rectify the problem.

Most interior trim is snapped together, with some threaded fasteners in some critical areas as reinforcement.

Not pieces to be disturbed and disassembled, unless there is a need. At best, clips may serve as sacrificial elements that can be replaced as part of the procoess. At worst, the integral attachment points on the trim itself may become damaged. Dirty hands or other handling can mar the appearance, especially on textile-faced surfaces like headliners and pillars.

I hate rattles and noises, but remediation attempts can be worse.

 

[Dave Hess]

This is one of those things you just learn to live with. Turn the radio up. Tearing into the dash is bound to cause even more rattles and noises.

And scratches to interior.

Mechanic will say all those deep gouges were there before he removed dash.


Turn up the radio
I need the music, gimme some more
Turn up the radio
I wanna feel it, got to gimme some more

 

[The_Jeff]

And the clips, that are supposed to stick to the "male" end of plastic chunks, sometimes come off. Often the plastic gets brittle with age and the "tooth" comes off with the clip.

Fasteners are generally reliable but are used sparingly because of the time invested at assembly. They're often part of a one-two release system, where they're in shear and once removed something moves laterally an inch then pops out.

Points about gouging dashes with tools are accurate and hard to avoid, even with semi-proper tooling. There are also very light colors in things like headliners that stain easily.

Noone will care for your car like you would, sadly. If they break something they're likely to hide it then declare it "already broke" if you come back... at least solving the puzzle, but handing you the bill.

 

[KrisZ]

The pillar cover should be fairly easy to remove. I would remove it and drive around to see if the rattle is still there. That at least could point to or eliminate the cover as the culprit. Maybe something behind the cover rattles?

I do understand that under warranty an owner shouldn’t have to repair stuff on their own, but sometime it’s better to take the initiative yourself. It may help you discover the root cause and get the dealer to fix it.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I am actually surprised there willing to even try. Many dealers / OEM's use the Noise / vibration 12 month clause thats in the fine print.

I would agree that your likely only option is to find its exact location yourself then ask them to fix it. The flat rate guys will just send it back / no fault found and hope you give up. Have you tried using a stethoscope and having someone else drive?

 

[PandaBear]

A 2024 luxury / near luxury car under warranty? I would ask them to keep fixing it till it is fixed. Heck even for a Corolla I would do that. That's the whole point of buying a new / near new under warranty car.

Sometimes that can happen but most likely the better brand like Infiniti would have manufacturer steps in to address it after a few times. They can't just blame it on "flat rate" and it would be between manufacturer and the dealer to sort that out, not you.

 

[PandaBear]

Saturn fixed a similar problem with double sided foam sticky tape stuck in a strategic location listed in a TSB.

But realistically a "creative" mechanic could just go in and do this everywhere. It wouldn't be right, but it would be quiet.

My NUMMI build Corolla had this in a vent keep pointing lower and after 3 returns to the dealer for the same issue, they replace the vent. It was an out of spec plastic or a short and long part for different vent being assembled in the wrong spot in the factory and the first 2 visits dealer just shim it with electrical tape.

A new replacement part fixed it. Either Toyota didn't check the incoming tolerance, the assembly worker being sloppy and just eyeball parts instead of checking part number, or someone's "creative solution" doesn't last.

I would be ok with an out of warranty used car like that, but not a near new luxury / near luxury car being like that.

 

[dfarr67]

These things drive me crazy- needs to be fixed.

 

[D1dad]

Infinity=Nissan. I had that rattle coming from the Pillar that runs between windshield and the roof. I was able to push on it and get it to quiet down, but it would always come back. I unsnapped the pillar and applied some double sided tape and fixed. I'm in a new Ford this week with under 4k and I hear squeaks and rattles but don't care, because it isn't mine

 

[Huskyguy68]

I did many years as an auto glass technician and during those years I pulled off many door panels/rear hatch interior panels/interiors panels, A -pillar moldings , removed rear seats, seatbelts, even parts of the dashtop, etc.

As The_Jeff mentioned above, fasteners degrade and can fall apart, little pieces of plastic drop down into crevices and can rattle...or the actual trim piece will have a rattle/vibrational buzz. Sometimes we had spare fasteners on hand or had to order some from a dealer or Auto parts supplier for the cheaper generic brands. Sometimes I worked for somebody who was a cheap SOB and wanted us to reuse everything/not gonna order something unless absolutely necessary or auto insurance claim is paying for it/customer supplying.

Sometimes the panel gaps/the tolerances so tight (as in many German vehicles) you'd think it was installed in cement and a puzzle how to remove/hidden plugs, screws, etc. Often I had to get creative and use some type of glue/epoxy/windshield urethane/ crazy glue/ 3M tape/dum dum butyl tape...some silicone caulking! Thing is, try to avoid some type of permanent glues, cuz if it is a repeat customer, chances are me or other shop employee will be working on the same vehicle and we will be swearing as we recall we glued the crap outta it the last visit.
On my own vehicle(s) , new or used, I usually will own something ''affordable'' and a certain vintage ( like my current 2006 Nissan Xtrail ). These vehicle interiors are 99% cheap plastic, plastic panels, door panels, dash tops.....the soft touch interiors being used much more in the more expensive vehicles and often much more quieter because of tighter panel fits, better plastic quality , more soft touch materials.
On my own Nissan, it will never be Lexus vault quiet/rattle free, but I have gone thru certain areas and added thick sticky tapes, or removed door panels and added Fr0st King sticky pipe wrap on the back side to maybe decrease outside noises, reduce plastic panels buzzing/rattling. I have three glove boxes (two on the dashtop) and a center console storage. I added felt or the non slip drawer liner , which helps with keeping things like pens, mini flash light, mini fuses from sliding and rattling as I drive. It does help.
When I removed all four car stereo speakers , I added some f that stick Frost King tape to the inside of each door skin, helps with vibration , added some around the speaker holes, added extra screws to bolt in each new speaker.
Actually, a month ago I traced down an annoying buzz coming from my left rear speaker door area. Pulled off the door panel, I seen my mistake. At least one screw was not properly aligning with the factory drill hole in the metal part of the door. I drilled a few new holes , put longer, thicker screws ....tested my car stereo with and without the door panel on...success!...now I have nice sound and no annoying buzzy noises , regardless of my my bass setting. I did the other rear door speaker, just incase.

Same idea under the car or in the engine compartment....with heat shields. Adding new screws/bolts/steel wire to tighten stuff up.
Yesterday I was under my SUV , under the rear bumper looking for anything that might be loose.
Found out my rear muffle heat shield was loose. It was held on by three bolts, all rusted out, the nuts just sheared off with my ten mm socket, heat shield holes were the size of quarters. I tried all sorts of magic to reinstall, all sorts of nuts and washers.

I just left the heat shield off for now. But I may now go remove Everything out of my rear cargo hold, remove the spare tire, might drill a few holes in the floor board where spare tire is, match it up to the heat shield and bolt or screw that shield back on. I might not even bother to reinstall......not in a area where muffler heat can do much damage, but it was there from the factory, so I suppose the Nissan engineers figured it should be there....we see!

 

[RooflessVW]

I have a 2024 Infiniti QX60. Since new, it has had a left a pillar/dash rattle: only in warm Temps, after driving for 10 Mins, 95% of the time, the rattle will occur. Only on smooth roads, at the slightest road vibration.

Working with one dealer, they acknowledged the noise on a test drive, as well as a video. Though when I drop it off for a mechanic to troubleshoot, it gets signed off as no faults found.

I appreciate it is under warranty, and it is 'the dealers problem', though a flat rate mechanic on warranty pay may induce issues to become my problem down the road.

I wanted to get opinions from other gear heads.

My plan is to request test drives with mechanics/ Forman rather than the advisors, and drop off the same day. I can replicate the issue during the warm weather on all sunny (hot) days. If the dealer says they can only disassemble / remove the dash to progress on a guess, i will then go to a different dealer. Hoping I come across a mechanic who has experienced the issue.

There are no TSBs, though a handful of reports of the same issue on forums, with no conclusion. I do not believe my dealer contacted their support line.

The good news it is a cosmetic noise, and as bizarre as it sounds, seems to get less and less over the last 2 years.

Please let me know if you have any other suggestions. As much as I want to stop the noise, I have learned to be careful what I wish for, and just leave things alone.

IMO you're better off just fixing it yourself.

I fixed a rattle in the passenger door of my Defender in less time than the round trip drive to the dealer.

 

[The Critic]

Unless there's a TSB for this exact issue, I would be hesitant to let the average flat-rate tech do exploratory surgery to "try" and fix this.

 

[D60]

Saturn fixed a similar problem with double sided foam sticky tape stuck in a strategic location listed in a TSB.

But realistically a "creative" mechanic could just go in and do this everywhere. It wouldn't be right, but it would be quiet.

I had an '03 Burb I bought used, but with only around 100k mi

Clearly someone was annoyed because they had peeled back every interior panel and put "mastik" at the joints. By the time it got to me it was just messy and doing very little. I removed most of it and didn't notice an increase in noises.

That said, those GMT800s have huge swaths of plastic panels covering the interior walls and as noted, they're just bound to shift and make noise

 

[meep]

I had two early s60 Volvos that were as tight as a glove even when I bought them at over 100k. The third one I bought was an 09 and it was like riding in a box of marbles atop a snare drum. I one by one removed panels, added felt pads or fabric tape as spacers and reassembled. After a couple of weeks of this it was silent as well.

Wire looms can shake up against the ceiling or trim. I’ve seen that a few times, light shakey-ticktick sound. Usually they have foam wrap around them. If not, a piece of felt or such can help. Zip tie it all down. Watch out for A-pillar airbag stuff if it’s there