Looking for advise..

[2010F350]

Hello all a new member here..I have been searching around trying to figure out what the best CJ-4 oil is....I am sure everyone has there favorite but are there bad brands???

I have a 2010 F350 with a 6.4 with 8000kms and want to go with a syn oil but have read it is a good idea to wait for the engine to break in.....I have been using Ford Motorcraft oil but they charge $6.71 per liter, and Walmart does not carry it here...I was thinking of Valvoline Premium Blue, seems to be a great oil but heard that all there additives are higher then most and some of them are bad for the DPF...Not sure if that is true or not...So my question is what is the best CJ-4 oil on the market?

 

[FL_Rob]

Chevron Delo 400LE is very good.

Then again, is break-in really an issue anymore? There are afew threads on this here.In general we've discussed that going right into a 'synthetic' (Rotella T6 subliminal recommendation) is really no problem.


Edit: Just joking on the subliminal recommendation.

 

[JHZR2]

I personally dont think you can get a bad one. Each has seemed to have its round f time when it was newly reformulated, etc., etc. and may have had some level of benefit over the others.

My only issue is that ive tended to (I believe) see a very slight drop in MPGs when using delo. I cant say if this is truly the case though, Ive not statistically proven it.

For a while Rotella was seen as an oil that people thought just was what it was. Since it has been revamped, it has gained a lot of followers, FWIW.

 

[Sonic]

ADVICE

 

[Jim Allen]

"Best" is a very subjective requirement. Any CJ4 oil on the market can meet your truck's basic requirements following the OE maintenance schedule. Yeah, that goes against most people's instinct to make something, "Their-Brand-By Golly," but when you look at UOAs, you won't see much difference in the performance of any of the brand name oils within their classes. That might not apply to some of the low-rent store brand oils, where the quality is a little less consistent or unknown.

Classes? In order of cost:
A) You got your off-the-shelf mineral oils,
B) your off the shelf synthetics (generally Group III base oils),
C) your boutique PAO or Ester oils, sometimes found in stores but often mail ordered.

There are general improvements in performance from one group to the other but once you have a factory recommend viscosity and API classification, it comes down to dollars and sense. The higher end oils make the most financial sense with people that really crank on the miles in short periods because they can take a longer interval or for those people that put a lot of work or high performance stress on their trucks. Or for those that want to run long OCIs and have the backup bypass filtration necessary for really long intervals.

Late model trucks with EGR tend to soot up the oil faster, so the OCI is shorter no matter what oil is in it. In terms of soot handling, I wonder if there is a great deal of difference between any of the oils. AFAIK, there isn't a way to compare that quality.

To me the bottom line comes down to how you operate the truck, how fast the oil builds up soot and fuel dilution and when you change the oil. A high dollar oil will reach a soot condemnation limit about as fast as a moderately priced one, so you are dumping it at the same time. It just how much it costs for the change.

 

[A_Harman]

As long as the oil is CJ4, it will be safe for your DPF. I ran Premium Blue for many years in my 2001 Dodge/Cummins, and it worked just fine. Since you're in Canada, perhaps you would consider Petro Canada's excellent oils. Their Duron 5w40 would give you very good cold start lubrication for those frigid Canadian winters.

 

[2010F350]

I change my oil every 5000kms no matter what. I do tow a 6000lbs trailer in the summer. This truck will get the best maintenance I can give her. I will change to a Syn oil for sure once I get some kms on this old girl, I just thought you were supposed to wait for the engine to break in. If it is ok to put Syn oil in now I would. I am looking to hear from all of you what would be the best, except from Sonic as he has no educational input.

 

[A_Harman]

If you change your oil every 5000 km, you are spending too much on oil, whether it's synthetic or conventional. Even conventional heavy-duty engine oils can go 10,000 kms without a worry. On synthetic's, you could go 20,000 km.

 

[CDX825]

I wouldn't recommend trying to push the OCIs any longer than what Ford specs because of fuel dilution problems caused by regens.

 

[dnewton3]

I echo what Jim said; there is no "best" oil for all situations. But you can certainly find some that will work well for you in your specific situation.

You need to do a lot of thinking and analyzing of your situation, and then you can narrow your choice to a few that will fit your criteria.

Consider the following (and be honest with yourself):
operating conditions
temperature extremes or moderation
loading factors
desired maintenance routine (OCI duration, filters, et)
ease of attainment, cost, etc
length of ownership, expected total mileage, etc

It all needs to be planned as a system to be complimentary and work together. If one portion is out of line with the others, it will not function as well as it could.

There is nothing wrong with using "dino" oils and average filters for OEM OCIs; the OEMs predicate their maintenance on these typically. As long as you use products that meet the OEM specs you'd be fine.

Or, you can choose premium lubes and filters and greatly extend you plans.

Either way works. But you'll get the "best" results by making the whole plan complimentary and not contradictory. It makes no more sense for a person to use cheap oil and filters for 25k miles than it does for him/her to use syns and bypass filters for 5k miles. One is a risk, the other a waste. If you mix and match, you are likely still limited by the "weakest link" in your lube chain, so to speak.

All that in mind, any CJ-4 approved fluid will do just fine, and since you're in Canada and putting it in a 6.4PSD, I'd even suggest that you consider 10w-30 HDEO; you'll be pleasantly suprised how well it works. There are many good Canadian brands to choose from.

 

[m37charlie]

An addition to dnewton's analysis:
The PSD's HPOP and hydraulic injectors are very hard on oil as far as shearing. Extended oil changes aren't often done (successfully) on a 6.4, therefore.
There is only 1 very good reason to use synthetic 5W40 or 0W40: Your climate.
If you live in Canada's "banana belt" (SW BC) then 10W30 will do you well. For much of the rest of the country 5W40 is much safer (as far as lubrication at startup) than 10Wx or especially 15W40. For parts that expect below -30 to -35C on a frequent basis 0W40 is even better. And these latter 2 oils can be safely run in the summer. Both Petro Canada and Co-Op sell excellent products in these viscosities.
A response to this migh be "get an oil pan heater". Will you/can you use it after the truck is parked all day in a windy parking lot at -35C.?

Charlie

 

[steve20]

wouldn't you also want to stick with the Motorcraft Oil Filters-at least while in warranty?

 

[dparm]

We've proven on here time and time again that pretty much every readily-available motor oil is more than adequate for 99% of drivers.

I'd use whichever HDEO is on sale at the time of the change. Plenty of good choices out there: Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac, Castrol Tection, Chevron Delo, etc.

 

[CDX825]

Originally Posted By: steve20
wouldn't you also want to stick with the Motorcraft Oil Filters-at least while in warranty?


Even out of warranty you should stick with the motorcraft filters. There were issues with some of the other manufacturers filters being used on both the 6.0 and 6.4

 

[RogerBacon]

Esso make 2 excellent diesel oils which I believe are only available in Canada. Both 0W30 and 0w40 are available for under $6 a litre at Esso bulk stations. At that price I ran 0w40 in my diesel all year around. This oil gives the best of both worlds-- reasonable cost and all the advantages of a very good synthetic. Roger

 

[dparm]

Agreed, Esso XD 0w30/0w40 is a stellar oil.

 

[Steve S]

Originally Posted By: 2010F350
I change my oil every 5000kms no matter what. I do tow a 6000lbs trailer in the summer. This truck will get the best maintenance I can give her. I will change to a Syn oil for sure once I get some kms on this old girl, I just thought you were supposed to wait for the engine to break in. If it is ok to put Syn oil in now I would. I am looking to hear from all of you what would be the best, except from Sonic as he has no educational input.
Syn oil unless recommended by the MFG has minimal if any advantages other than freezing weather starts ESPECIALLY when changed at MFG recommended intervals.

 

[-SyN-]

2010F350: Alot of good advice above...along with that advice--->My 3cents worth---->Choose your oil from the advice above that best fits your 6.4L needs...

Since your PSD is new, your best bet is to run your oil of choice for at least 3K to 5K miles, then do a UOA... Granted the UOA will not show everything, but it will get you heading in the right direction finding your so called best oil for your 6.4L

It's really tough telling if the oil of choice is doing it's job unless the owner pulls the motor and opens it up and inspects all the moving parts...An UOA will somewhat help do that...

Also listen and feel what is going on inside as you drive...Some say this is not a good way to choose an oil? But I can honestly say---->My 7.3L {not a 6.4L} reacts so differently going from a 15W-40 to a 5W-40 or 10W-30... Mainly in cold weather... Most of all at startups...Which in my mind-->most wear occurs...

This is your truck!!! Your hard earned money!!! Todays oils are very good...You really can't pick a bad diesel oil...{fuel dilution is really a problem}...Either keep your OCI between 5K and 7K miles? or Do a UOA between 3K to 5K miles... If your pocket book can justify synthetic oil-->Use It...If not? Pour in regular dino oil...Your 6.4L will out last you with proper care... It's your truck not ours... Good Luck...