Longest oil change interval on EcoBoost / GTDI engines?

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Originally Posted by Whimsey
Originally Posted by SilverFusion2010
Anyone tried M1 0w-40 in an ecoboost?


I don't believe the Mobil1 0W-40 is LSPI friendly, it has a fairly high calcium level as I recall. Maybe the 3.5 EB is not subject to LSPI, I don't know
21.gif
. Our 2.3 EB is a smaller engine and possibly falls into the LSPI territory so I'll play it safe and use a dexos 1 Gen 2, SN+ oil. I'll stick with "plain vanilla" Mobil 1 5W-30. It meets all the specs for LSPI engines. My UOA's using Mobil 1 5W-30 have been really good for a 6,200 mile winter run and even better for a 7,000 mile summer run. As a bonus with the Mobil 1 rebates I've gotten it cheap and cheap Mobil1 oil filters at the same time.

Whimsey



It is really amazing how the average member here believes they are the guru who has tested the Ecoboost with $20 UOA's thus know what is the best grade and oil to use.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251

It is really amazing how the average member here believes they are the guru who has tested the Ecoboost with $20 UOA's thus know what is the best grade and oil to use.


thumbsup2.gif

We have a neighbor a couple houses down who owns an 2011 Ecoboost Explorer. He tells me they use what ever the cheapest oil they can get from Groupon Coupons for nearby quick lubes and have never used a full synthetic. They always run it until the "car tells them it's time to change" and they've never had an issue. This is the real world. But i guess this is the story of one, only.
 
Originally Posted by josephp732
I use 0w-40 PP Euro in my 2015 Expedition with 3.5L Ecoboost. The engine does run smoother and quieter on the 0w-40 PP Euro than the 5w-30 PUP I ran during the warranty period. I was given a case of Mercedes-Benz Mobil 1 Oil, 0w-40 (a friend sold his MB) and I plan to try this on the next oil change. I am pretty anal about keeping to 5k OCI's.


Prompted me to check my online sales record …
I ran Mobil 1 Formula M 5w40 for two OCI's … 2015 3.5L eb
This went in behind 5w30 PUP and was quieter …
 
Originally Posted by wemay
130K


So many of those lube shops use Citgo oil bulk. If it wasn't serviceable, they wouldn't be stocking it for decades now. I would bet Citgo has kept-up with the specs (SN to SN PLus). It's probably Dexos-approved also. That Explorer might live to a ripe old age.

If I could trust those lube shops to do the job right, I'd use them myself. But because of so many horror stories, I will not go there, or even to a dealer... and I have a free oil change coming from Hyundai and will probably never use it.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by wemay
...and they've never had an issue. This is the real world. But i guess this is the story of one, only.

Too many self-proclaimed "experts" overthink many of these things. They create issues or concerns where none exist.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by Whimsey
Originally Posted by SilverFusion2010
Anyone tried M1 0w-40 in an ecoboost?


I don't believe the Mobil1 0W-40 is LSPI friendly, it has a fairly high calcium level as I recall. Maybe the 3.5 EB is not subject to LSPI, I don't know
21.gif
. Our 2.3 EB is a smaller engine and possibly falls into the LSPI territory so I'll play it safe and use a dexos 1 Gen 2, SN+ oil. I'll stick with "plain vanilla" Mobil 1 5W-30. It meets all the specs for LSPI engines. My UOA's using Mobil 1 5W-30 have been really good for a 6,200 mile winter run and even better for a 7,000 mile summer run. As a bonus with the Mobil 1 rebates I've gotten it cheap and cheap Mobil1 oil filters at the same time.

Whimsey



It is really amazing how the average member here believes they are the guru who has tested the Ecoboost with $20 UOA's thus know what is the best grade and oil to use.


I guess it's safe to assume this insult is meant for me. I'm not a guru, only stated what has been written about LSPI and engine oils. Maybe you should read some more about oils and LSPI and not assume you know best on all matters.

Whimsey
 
From the old UOA's I've seen for EcoBoost engines, the only oils that could reach 10k mile OCI (safe according to Blackstone) were the M1 EP's/AP's and Amsoil SS. I understand that frequent OC's are more important than the type of oil, but for some of us every 5k miles means every few months. I see lots of recommendations for Castrol Edge and Magnetech, but are they better oils than Amsoil Signature Series? Every once in awhile there seems to be some oil highly recommended on the forums (e.g. Castrol German/Green 0W-30) that eventually goes to the wayside, but Amsoil SS is still there.
 
I'm currently at 15k miles on the current fill, amsoil 5w-30 SS, I've topped it off with a fresh qt and will be sending in a UOA when I do my oil change. If the oil comes back as being spent then I may step down to the XL or OE series.
 
Originally Posted by BigShug681
I'm currently at 15k miles on the current fill, amsoil 5w-30 SS, I've topped it off with a fresh qt and will be sending in a UOA when I do my oil change. If the oil comes back as being spent then I may step down to the XL or OE series.

There's more to evaluating TGDI / GDI engines than oil analysis.
If you keep doing 15K OCIs with these-type engines, you might want Blackstone to look and evaluate the condition of your valves and pistons.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by BigShug681
I'm currently at 15k miles on the current fill, amsoil 5w-30 SS, I've topped it off with a fresh qt and will be sending in a UOA when I do my oil change. If the oil comes back as being spent then I may step down to the XL or OE series.

There's more to evaluating TGDI / GDI engines than oil analysis.
If you keep doing 15K OCIs with these-type engines, you might want Blackstone to look and evaluate the condition of your valves and pistons.


How would UOAs for GTDI's be read/used differently from N/A gas engines?
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by BigShug681
I'm currently at 15k miles on the current fill, amsoil 5w-30 SS, I've topped it off with a fresh qt and will be sending in a UOA when I do my oil change. If the oil comes back as being spent then I may step down to the XL or OE series.

There's more to evaluating TGDI / GDI engines than oil analysis.
If you keep doing 15K OCIs with these-type engines, you might want Blackstone to look and evaluate the condition of your valves and pistons.

Please enlighten me on what they should look for
 
It has nothing to do with it really.
It has everything to do with 15k OCI UOA readings that cannot tell light from darkness, how those long OCIs are adding more buildup to your pistons and valves.

Then one day your vehicle starts running like crappola and the money you save running 15k OCIs will now cost you 3-5X more to fix the damage.

Gone are the days of long OCIs with TGDI/GDI engines. It's rare where one lasts a long life with long OCIs. Very few people take care of that engine to have it last, without reaching deep and reaching big inside your wallet for repairs.

So you can see a nice UOA here and your pistons and valves may look like crappola.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
It has nothing to do with it really.
It has everything to do with 15k OCI UOA readings that cannot tell light from darkness, how those long OCIs are adding more buildup to your pistons and valves.

Then one day your vehicle starts running like crappola and the money you save running 15k OCIs will now cost you 3-5X more to fix the damage.

Gone are the days of long OCIs with TGDI/GDI engines. It's rare where one lasts a long life with long OCIs. Very few people take care of that engine to have it last, without reaching deep and reaching big inside your wallet for repairs.

So you can see a nice UOA here and your pistons and valves may look like crappola.

I'm in agreement.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
It has nothing to do with it really.
It has everything to do with 15k OCI UOA readings that cannot tell light from darkness, how those long OCIs are adding more buildup to your pistons and valves.

Then one day your vehicle starts running like crappola and the money you save running 15k OCIs will now cost you 3-5X more to fix the damage.

Gone are the days of long OCIs with TGDI/GDI engines. It's rare where one lasts a long life with long OCIs. Very few people take care of that engine to have it last, without reaching deep and reaching big inside your wallet for repairs.

So you can see a nice UOA here and your pistons and valves may look like crappola.

What proof do you have that 15k mike OCI's are causing more buildup than the 3-5k mile ones? Or that any of these engines self destruct more often going 5k past the OE recommendation compared too the owner who changes it at 1500 miles based purely on paranoia
 
What do you mean by the pistons and valves looking like crapola? Are you talking about the deposits that form on the valves from the valve overlap? Maybe oil deposits in the piston ring areas? Wouldn't a UOA be able to tell you the condition of the oil from flashpoint, TBN, and viscosity?
 
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