Longer Motorcraft FL820S compatible filter?

[chevrofreak]

I called around about some of these mentioned larger filters, and boy are they expensive compared to the $3.48 Motorcraft.

Wix 51087 wasn't available locally, and I think he quoted me something like $14. The Napa Gold 1087 was I believe $17.

That's why I was hoping there was a larger Bosch or Mobil 1 filter that would fit, because I was willing to go as much as $10.

I guess I'll just be laying on the cold, soaking wet concrete to change the Motorcraft filter on my car a couple times this winter

I appreciate the help again

 

[Gary Allan]

L30238 in a purolator

 

[chevrofreak]

I don't know if there is anywhere that sells Purolator around here. I might have to check at Checker tomorrow.

We're pretty limited on auto parts chains.

 

[RWEST]

Quote:
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 355
Max Flow Rate: 11-13 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 24


No ADBV (I think)

Gary - Am I missing something? Not unusual for me...

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: RWEST
Quote:
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 355
Max Flow Rate: 11-13 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 24


No ADBV (I think)

Gary - Am I missing something? Not unusual for me...

The one below it. I put the comment in too high (again, I think) ..and you can take the "I think" as an indicator that it's not unusual for me either

 

[bmwtechguy]

I am curious how the Amsoil EaO11 would work in your vehicle. It is known to flow well and have high contaminant capacity and efficiency, but is higher $ than what you are willing to pay. We are running it in a 93 G.Marquis 4.6L for about 10k miles or one year. Car uses some oil as many of that year do, so we just add to it as needed(no leaks). So far no issues on Maxlife 10W-40, which has been the best at reducing consumption.

 

[chevrofreak]

10W-40 is a pretty thick oil to be running in a 4.6

My car also uses a lot of oil, but since installing an oil separator in the PCV line, my oil consumption has dropped drastically. I have about 300 miles on the car since installing it, and by now I'd normally be about 1/2 quart low, but I can barely see movement on the dipstick.

Using Amsoil filter has been tempting, but I want to wait to use something really high end. I'm going to use PP when my Auto RX rinse phase is over, but the first OCI will be short, probably 4,000 to 5,000 miles to make sure everything is flushed out of it good from the Auto RX. After that I might do 6,000 with a nice filter like the Amsoil Ea, and run it for 2 OCI's before changing.

 

[bmwtechguy]

Where do you get one of these oil separators and how costly? Maybe that would help this car and allow to run a thinner oil like 10w30. I'm sure that it has valve stem seal issues as most early 4.6's had. We rarely see anything below 20 deg F in the winter. Even after 2 ARX cycles which dramatically reduced consumption, it still burns about a quart of Maxlife 10W-40 every 1500 miles. It was using a quart of 5w30 Motorcraft every 300 miles (tank of fuel) before treatment. I am close to convincing owner to use maintenance dose of the stuff, which would help some too I believe. That engine is very smooth and quiet on the ML oil. 180k hard miles.

 

[chevrofreak]

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/well-i-figured-out-where-all-of-my-oil-is-going.94258/

Please forgive how poorly written it is, my sister is the English major and my mother is the author.

 

[cjg1999]

The MC FL1A is the same filter but longer, i know 1st Gen lightnings used the shorter FL820 becauase of the oil cooler, where as a normal 351 motor used the FL1A.

 

[chevrofreak]

The FL-1A uses different threads than the FL-820S. One is inch and one is metric.

I think the threaded bit can be screwed out and changed for another one, but I'm not going to try it.

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak

I think the threaded bit can be screwed out and changed for another one, but I'm not going to try it.


Well, much depends on the engine and the setup. For example, if you have a heat exchanger on 4.0 Explorer, you use a FL820S ..but the engine thread is 3/4-16. If you find an exchanger ..or just the extended bolt for it, you can convert to 3/4-16. If you don't have an exchanger, and have a 4.0, you should be able to just get a 3/4-16x 3/4-16 nipple (if it's using the 820s).

 

[RWEST]

Quote:
The FL-1A uses different threads than the FL-820S. One is inch and one is metric.

And, I remember the first time I discovered that little detail. I'm under there, trying desperately to fit an FL1A on my Expedition, thinking "good grief, why won't this thing go on there like they've been going on my Fords for the past 20 years?". I about wore the threads out trying to make it fit. The one I took off was that factory gray filter they put on with a 4 foot monkey wrench, and had no discernable markings.

So I gave up and called the dealer and found out that the whole stash of FL1A's I had wasn't going to fit, and I needed to stock up on FL820's. I guess that's progress.

 

[easytim]

Originally Posted By: Titan
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
I want to start stretching my OCI's to 5K. I just figure that there's nothing wrong with more filter media, especially since a longer filter will fit with ease.


It won't hurt, but, it won't help. 5000 miles isn't stretching this filter at all. In fact, since filters get MORE EFFICIENT as they are used longer, simply adding more and more filter media isn't "better", unless there is some problem you are battling...such as loosening a lot of gunk with an Auto RX treatment. Otherwise, worry about a meteorite hitting your car...it's more likely to occur, compared to the standard FL820S being somehow related to the engine lasting less than about 300,000 miles. B-)


I wish a meteorite would hit my car