LM Engine Flush + Ceratec. My review.

Joined
Nov 22, 2005
Messages
666
Location
Charlotte, NC
Last month I posted positive results for relieving the cold start chatter - quite literally sounding like 'marbles in a can' - in my 2012 LS460 with 200k. Upon posting I had added LM hydraulic lifter additive with positive results, that only lasted for about 1000 miles, and then the marbles started to chatter, and the car didn't feel right either. Sixth sense told me to dump the 9.2qts of fresh synthetic with a thousand miles on the juice, so I did.

Prior to dumping the oil, I unloaded a can of LM Engine Flush for good measure and let it run for 10 minutes. Even though the oil was practically new, it was pitch black upon drain, and the filter weighed 10x-ish normal OCI weight. This is my anecdotal, unscientific reasoning for the efficacy of LM Engine Flush working as advertised.

Back in goes 9.2qt Castrol HM 0w20($44), and 2 cans of LM Ceratec($60!!!), with Mann drop-in filter.

I'm at 2500mi on this fill and the chatter is gone, my idle is lower and smoother, and my fuel economy has increased by around 8%. I performed the same on my 2017 QX60 with 80k, but I see or feel no benefit after 2500mi, after adding both above LM products.


Should have done these on separate oil changes for a solid control but my impatience got the best of me. My only existential crisis being: to whom do I give credit for these gains? The engine flush or the Ceratec....or both?
 
People who have Ford Coyotes that exhibit the "BBQ tick" report that the ticking goes away almost instantly when they add a bottle (300 ml) of Ceratec to the 8 qt sump. It's a friction modifier, so I'd say in your case that the smoother engine running and increased fuel mileage is mostly from the Ceratec.
 
People who have Ford Coyotes that exhibit the "BBQ tick" report that the ticking goes away almost instantly when they add a bottle (300 ml) of Ceratec to the 8 qt sump. It's a friction modifier, so I'd say in your case that the smoother engine running and increased fuel mileage is mostly from the Ceratec.
You mean that this IS NOT a snake oil....:ROFLMAO:
 
I want to make sure that I understand completely.

*Is your engine rattle(like a can of marbles) only momentarily to a few minutes, such as a cold morning startup ?
*Or is it there all the time even while running/driving?
*Could it be over advanced ignition time rattle(jumped a tooth)?... until the engine warms up then, goes away?
*Does the rattle even go away after driving?
*Could it be your oil filters ADBV?
 
I want to make sure that I understand completely.

*Is your engine rattle(like a can of marbles) only momentarily to a few minutes, such as a cold morning startup ?
*Or is it there all the time even while running/driving?
*Could it be over advanced ignition time rattle(jumped a tooth)?... until the engine warms up then, goes away?
*Does the rattle even go away after driving?
*Could it be your oil filters ADBV?

1) only during cold startup - lasting for 2 minutes, and it's a sudden stop from rattle to smooth. As if the engine management kicks in at a certain temperature. The temp needle has only budged one degree or so when the rattle stopped.
2) Not during operating temperature.
3) good question.
4) see #1
5) what is the ADBV?

After engine flush + ceratec, the rattle is 100% gone at all timeframes and temps. I am curious to see if it will stay this way after the next OCI with no Ceratec in the fill.
 
Last month I posted positive results for relieving the cold start chatter - quite literally sounding like 'marbles in a can' - in my 2012 LS460 with 200k. Upon posting I had added LM hydraulic lifter additive with positive results, that only lasted for about 1000 miles, and then the marbles started to chatter, and the car didn't feel right either. Sixth sense told me to dump the 9.2qts of fresh synthetic with a thousand miles on the juice, so I did.

Prior to dumping the oil, I unloaded a can of LM Engine Flush for good measure and let it run for 10 minutes. Even though the oil was practically new, it was pitch black upon drain, and the filter weighed 10x-ish normal OCI weight. This is my anecdotal, unscientific reasoning for the efficacy of LM Engine Flush working as advertised.

Back in goes 9.2qt Castrol HM 0w20($44), and 2 cans of LM Ceratec($60!!!), with Mann drop-in filter.

I'm at 2500mi on this fill and the chatter is gone, my idle is lower and smoother, and my fuel economy has increased by around 8%. I performed the same on my 2017 QX60 with 80k, but I see or feel no benefit after 2500mi, after adding both above LM products.


Should have done these on separate oil changes for a solid control but my impatience got the best of me. My only existential crisis being: to whom do I give credit for these gains? The engine flush or the Ceratec....or both?
Any pics of the filter? If it increased in weight by 10x, it should have some considerable material in it.
 
Any pics of the filter? If it increased in weight by 10x, it should have some considerable material in it.
And was it 10X a normal oil-filled filter?

And I'm still trying to figure out how "junk" caused a rattle. I often wonder what people are doing to their engines on a regular basis to cause all this buildup they then remove. I've had the oil pan off some of my vehicles at several hundred thousand miles and there really isn't much to see - even in my 1MZ-FE. Of course I didn't have this cold start chatter problem, nor do I now at 450,000+.
 
And was it 10X a normal oil-filled filter?

And I'm still trying to figure out how "junk" caused a rattle. I often wonder what people are doing to their engines on a regular basis to cause all this buildup.
No pics unfortunately, but no particle matter to see. I should have cut it open though.

First engine flush treatment in her 10 years and 200k, so probably a ****e show in there.
 
No pics unfortunately, but no particle matter to see. I should have cut it open though.

First engine flush treatment in her 10 years and 200k, so probably a ****e show in there.
Like I added later to my post, what happened in the years prior? None of my much older engines are a ****e show inside, whatever that is exactly.
 
Like I added later to my post, what happened in the years prior? None of my much older engines are a ****e show inside, whatever that is exactly.
I acquired the car 2 years ago at 121k. No history on the car via Carfax or nationwide Lexus database available at time of purchase but it ran solid and was 10K under Blue book so I took a chance. I assume it was not changed on the regular by the previous owners and sludged up quite a bit. In the 80,000 miles I put on the car I've not had a single problem, and amazingly she consumes no oil.
 
The anti drain-back valve(ADBV) is typically in conventional type oil filters. It is the black(nitrile rubber) or orange(silicone) piece the holds oil inside the filter to aid in preventing dry start ups, which can cause that start up rattle.
 
At 9 qts 2x cans of flush is recommended by LM.
 
Forgot to mention that I also replaced the oil filter canister housing....is the ADBV in that girl or further up the line?
The rubber ADBV is inside the oil filter. You can see it through the inlet holes around the base of the filter.
 
Curious...will 600ml of Engine Flush remove the Ceratec coating or leave it behind?
According to LM...no. 600ml/9qt is the normal dose here same as a more "normal" 300ml (1 can)/5qt. I've use Ceratec (2 cans) in my W8 which takes 9 qts and use 2 can of flush each change.
 
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