Liqui Moly Ceratec

[Revving2Redline]

Would be an interesting test to do is see what oils hold what specifications and then run them in real world intervals and every thousand miles test them and see if they fallen out of specification. We see a lot of people going off TBN as the way to explain how well an oil is holding off to acidity, but what if an oil has a better structure and doesn't need to have as high of a starting TBN. I myself would like to see the 5w-30s in a test to see how long they can actually stay in grade. If they fall out a grade then I can presume that they are out of specification at that time. As long as cost is still the primary thing that both the consumer looks at and the company who creates the product looks at then it's possible that you're never really going to get a great product that's going to last or hold up. I'm starting to see why people are using the oils of high performance lubricants, amsoil, redline oil and a few others. It just simply goes back to you get what you pay for.

 

[Revving2Redline]

That is correct for MoS2 per LM. Per LM, Ceratec is good for ~30K as the solid FM is drained but the chem FM remains so they recommend Ceratec followed by MoS2 after for the 30K. Again, just reiterating what LM's instructions are.

I'm really tempted to call and ask why they sell both motor oil and additives. Of course they're going to have a lot of oils with very specific specifications on a lot of different oils that's a given. But I want to ask if their oils are so good how come they sell additives to be used with their oils. And then I would like to ask is there any reason why I shouldn't use an additive with their oils as well. I'm not trying to rub them the wrong way or anybody else I just want to know why they make these additives if they don't think that the oils would benefit from using them. I have a feeling they're going to revert back to people don't want to spend the extra money or some cost-related reasoning

 

[TiGeo]

I'm really tempted to call and ask why they sell both motor oil and additives. Of course they're going to have a lot of oils with very specific specifications on a lot of different oils that's a given. But I want to ask if their oils are so good how come they sell additives to be used with their oils. And then I would like to ask is there any reason why I shouldn't use an additive with their oils as well. I'm not trying to rub them the wrong way or anybody else I just want to know why they make these additives if they don't think that the oils would benefit from using them. I have a feeling they're going to revert back to people don't want to spend the extra money or some cost-related reasoning

It's simple - these additives are sold as "add-ons" for those that want the most "protection" and in no way does their sale indicate that there is anything wrong with their oils. Note that nobody knows exactly how much extra "protection" you are getting running Ceratec for example but that's a different dicussion. Do you think me tracking my car occasionally and generally "beating the crap out of it" is comparible to average joe bee-boppin to work and never hitting 3K RPM? This convo always leads down this path w/r to additives - I don't see the drama. Don't buy them if you don't want to or don't think you are gaining anything additional, easy.

 

[TiGeo]

Would be an interesting test to do is see what oils hold what specifications and then run them in real world intervals and every thousand miles test them and see if they fallen out of specification. We see a lot of people going off TBN as the way to explain how well an oil is holding off to acidity, but what if an oil has a better structure and doesn't need to have as high of a starting TBN. I myself would like to see the 5w-30s in a test to see how long they can actually stay in grade. If they fall out a grade then I can presume that they are out of specification at that time. As long as cost is still the primary thing that both the consumer looks at and the company who creates the product looks at then it's possible that you're never really going to get a great product that's going to last or hold up. I'm starting to see why people are using the oils of high performance lubricants, amsoil, redline oil and a few others. It just simply goes back to you get what you pay for.

Will be connected with the engine itself - some engines seem to chew up oil more than others so in one car your test may show they all stay in grade at the end of a 5K interval and some may show none of them do...

 

[Revving2Redline]

Will be connected with the engine itself - some engines seem to chew up oil more than others so in one car your test may show they all stay in grade at the end of a 5K interval and some may show none of them do...

Thanks for explaining that to me I appreciate it! I have a lot of time on my hands lately and I should do more reading than something on the hunting or fishing channel catches my attention and my attention span goes right out the window.

 

[OVERKILL]

Will be connected with the engine itself - some engines seem to chew up oil more than others so in one car your test may show they all stay in grade at the end of a 5K interval and some may show none of them do...

Yes, and the Euro marques run some extensive engine tests that have "stay-in-grade" requirements associated with them. The API? Not so much.

 

[TiGeo]

Yes, and the Euro marques run some extensive engine tests that have "stay-in-grade" requirements associated with them. The API? Not so much.

I think all of the out-of-grade issue on some of the turbo VW engines is fuel...at least that's the conclusion I've come to.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Yes, and the Euro marques run some extensive engine tests that have "stay-in-grade" requirements associated with them. The API? Not so much.

So would I be better to run something like the m1 0w30 ESP or like the red line 5W30 Euro in my GDI non-turbo engine? Is there any other maintenance that would be required of me by using these oils instead of a standard 5w30 or 0w30?

 

[OVERKILL]

So would I be better to run something like the m1 0w30 ESP or like the red line 5W30 Euro in my GDI non-turbo engine? Is there any other maintenance that would be required of me by using these oils instead of a standard 5w30 or 0w30?

I'd lean toward the Mobil product, personally. And I mean, if we are being objective, yes, I would say that the M1 ESP product is "better" than a non-Euro 5W-30/0W-30.

 

[Revving2Redline]

I'd lean toward the Mobil product, personally. And I mean, if we are being objective, yes, I would say that the M1 ESP product is "better" than a non-Euro 5W-30/0W-30.

Am I going to have to clean the throttle body every oil change as I've heard some of those oils have a sap level that might increase deposits maybe?

 

[OVERKILL]

Am I going to have to clean the throttle body every oil change as I've heard some of those oils have a sap level that might increase deposits maybe?

Shouldn't, the Euro oils also have lower Noack limits, typically around 10% vs 15% for API and I believe 13% for Dexos.

 

[Trav]

I'm really tempted to call and ask why they sell both motor oil and additives. Of course they're going to have a lot of oils with very specific specifications on a lot of different oils that's a given. But I want to ask if their oils are so good how come they sell additives to be used with their oils. And then I would like to ask is there any reason why I shouldn't use an additive with their oils as well. I'm not trying to rub them the wrong way or anybody else I just want to know why they make these additives if they don't think that the oils would benefit from using them. I have a feeling they're going to revert back to people don't want to spend the extra money or some cost-related reasoning

This is all you need to know.

From Liqui Moly.

MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment ensures immediate friction and wear reduction, adds an extremely protective and pressure-resistant boundary layer with low friction and lubricates during cold starts to prevent damage from lack of oil. Contributes to lower fuel consumption, longer engine life and less noise. Specifically designed for older engine designs with or without a turbocharger.

 

[TiGeo]

Am I going to have to clean the throttle body every oil change as I've heard some of those oils have a sap level that might increase deposits maybe?

No.

 

[kschachn]

Am I going to have to clean the throttle body every oil change as I've heard some of those oils have a sap level that might increase deposits maybe?

Wait, I'm confused here, the SAPS value is only relevant post-combustion isn't it? How would it affect deposits there in the throttle body?

 

[hrv]

Just another snake oil to waste you money on..

 

[Vil_Riker]

Just another snake oil to waste you money on..

Marginal improvement in claimed performance metrics according to this:

 

[kschachn]

Marginal improvement in claimed performance metrics according to this:

Irrelevant and stupidly performed parlor tricks don’t help the cause here.

 

[zyxelenator]

Just another snake oil to waste you money on..

Maybe if you keep repeating the same phrase in the same forum thread over and over again people will stop buying it

 

[Vil_Riker]

Irrelevant and stupidly performed parlor tricks don’t help the cause here.

There is nothing else out there by an independent party creating a suspicion that this is a snake oil.

 

[kschachn]

There is nothing else out there by an independent party creating a suspicion that this is a snake oil.

But the point here is that there’s nothing in that video that would dampen the suspicion that it isn’t.