Light Noise when cold start?

Originally Posted by burla
I believe Amsoil SS 0w40 is sn plus.

It may be "recommended" for SN plus, but it's definitely not SN Plus approved. None of the SS oils are API approved.
 
If that were my car, I would purchase the OE filter, fill it with OE oil, and if it continues, I would take it to the dealer and document what's going on.

At least it will be in the books without any fear of voiding your warranty. Not saying what you have in there would void it, but just cover all the bases.
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
I don't expect a new KIA to feel like a Mercedes but it shouldn't sound like clapped out beater either when started cold.



I do not consider a few seconds of lifter tick after a cold start abnormal or harmful. The lifters lose pressure, the check valves in the head do not seal 100%, the ADBV may not seal well to begin with. The OP can always try a different brand filter and see if that helps.
 
Originally Posted by Oro_O
What filter are you using and how long has it been in?

In my vehicles that always means the ADBV valve is leaking-down overnight and draining the oil journals above the filter. I use good filters, like Fram Ultra or Napa Platinum and have no issues. 10w-30 in Oman would be preferrable, you clearly don't need that extra pumpability from -20C to -25C the 5w-30 gets you.
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Do they market a high-quality straight 30 there? Do you ever get below freezing?



I'm using the original filter that it's provided by Kia Authorized Parts store from the dealer. It's been there for almost 4200KM.
I had the choice to buy the 10W-30 Pennzoil Platinum but I went with Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP Formula just because they are priced the exact same and no benefit of using 10W-30 instead of 5W-30. and we never reach 0 ti's rare in winter 5C.
 
Perfectly normal, unfortunately some engines are a bit louder than others. If the noise continued for more than few seconds I'd be concerned.
 
Originally Posted by burla
Look at high moly oils, will help quench lspi as well. All around it sounds like you need moly and low calcium. I'm not sure if moly in suspension would be good for di, but I'd look at high moly oils or additives that use oil soluble moly, there are a couple.

Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by John344
Originally Posted by vavavroom
Hydraulic valve lifters need a moment to get pressurized.


I'm really not advanced at Engines but just to be more accurate the car is Kia Cadenza 2019, I think it has a GDI engine.


GDI is not relevant to what he's stating. If it has hydraulic lash adjusters, they take a moment to "pump up" if they've bled down.


They shouldn't bleed down overnight and a new car shouldn't make harsh noises like that. Sounds like a production defect in the check valves in the lifters if so equipped. My 200,000 mile infrequently driven truck makes no such noise after sitting for weeks. Can you sit in and start up similar cars to see if they do that too?



I uploaded a video for the sound in one of the answers.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
No 0W40s with low Calcium and high Magnesium for TGDI / GDIs. Plus - being a 2019 model, likely no 0W40 listing in the Oil Section of his Owners Manual.



5W-40 is listed as one of the approved oils.
 
Perfectly normal. I didn't hear anything but GDI clatter and wouldn't worry about it, OP.
 
[censored] op I wouldn't worry at all, lol. Try coming to hemi forum and really hear clanging on start up. When you take a video with audio for tick, you want to put recording device under the engine, this will give you best audio with no wash out sounded like in open air. Having said that, there is nothing there.
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
The Lambda engine is known for having a short (a few seconds) lifter tick. If you have the proper oil, full sump and OE filter it could very well be benign (normal). My engine has always had it. Early on I took it in to have it looked at because some of those Lambda V6's had a timing chain tensioner issue but that was not the case with mine. That's when I learned that it was "normal". All flavors of the Hyundai Lambda V6 use a timing chain btw. 160k+ miles later I have the original timing chain and it still makes that short "tick-tick-tick" on cold starts.

I'm not aware that Hyundai has a problem anymore with the timing chain tensioner but since you're still under warranty take it in and get it documented at minimum.

Q: are you 100% certain the ticking sound is coming from the top end?? If it is, I'd bet dollars to pennies it's just the lifters needing that oil to start flowing.

(guess this is why they say most engine wear occurs in those first few seconds at start up. Use a quality oil per the OM and full flow filter and I bet you'll be just fine. But like I said, it can't hurt to get a 2nd opinion on it from the dealership)

Btw, congrats on the new ride. I'm jealous........ with it being a gdi, I'd personally take care to do everything by the book (owners manual) while ur under warranty.


Thanks, I noticed the ticking and was thinking it could be normal. I really like the car but don't know about this issue with the v6's Kia Engines. Just to make sure I have uploaded a video with the sound so you can compare it with your vehicle and see if it has the same sound. You can find it UP in one of the replies.
 
Originally Posted by wemay
Perfectly normal. I didn't hear anything but GDI clatter and wouldn't worry about it, OP.

Originally Posted by burla
[censored] op I wouldn't worry at all, lol. Try coming to hemi forum and really hear clanging on start up. When you take a video with audio for tick, you want to put recording device under the engine, this will give you best audio with no wash out sounded like in open air. Having said that, there is nothing there.



Thanks, guys for the answers, good to know that it's Normal in GDI's. I was thinking of changing to a lighter oil but I will stick with the 5W30 Mobil 1 ESP Formula. Thanks also for the recording advise I would definitely do it next time to get better sound.
 
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What you hear is before the engine is even running or in rotation. No lube is gonna change that noise. Likely normal function, I'm not familar enough to say for sure, but there is no lube issue.
 
I listened a bunch of times, it's almost like something is shaking before the starter has finished it's turn. I'd say nothing burger for sure, good news.
 
Originally Posted by burla
I listened a bunch of times, it's almost like something is shaking before the starter has finished it's turn. I'd say nothing burger for sure, good news.


I was thinking that it's a dry engine until the pump send the oil to the engine parts because if you notice in the other video inside the car, the sound went off after the oil icon in the gauge cluster went off.
 
Originally Posted by wemay
Perfectly normal. I didn't hear anything but GDI clatter and wouldn't worry about it, OP.

I would agree.

I could make out that faint, rapid "tick tick tick" and that is exactly the same tick tick tick I get for a few seconds but it always goes away shortly.

OP - if it doesn't go away or happens under load, take it in. Heck, take it in if you want peace of mind but I would bet that the dealership is gonna say that's "normal" and to their credit I haven't had any issues on mine in 160+k miles, as previously mentioned.

(the basic design of the Hyundai lambda engine has been around for nearly 15yrs now and it's been a very good engine for Kia/Hyundai, mfg right here in the USA. On the Kia forums I'm not aware of any chronic performance issues with the PI version. Early on they had that chain tensioner issue and a "metal flakes" problem that could impede oil flow but those have largely been resolved for some time now. By now Hyundai has long since worked out the kinks on the PI version but your (t)GDI is a relatively new iteration of the Lambda engine so I think the jury is still out on it's reliability/performance. Although Hyundai would def' argue there's no "jury is still out" concern, some owners in the Kia forums aren't exactly on board (fully) with that. But hey, you got a looong warranty... follow your OM and don't lose sleep at night as you got your back covered for the next 100k miles. ...)
 
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Originally Posted by John344
I was thinking that it's a dry engine until the pump send the oil to the engine parts because if you notice in the other video inside the car, the sound went off after the oil icon in the gauge cluster went off.

With your ambient air temps and you using a 5w40 it ain't gonna take but a few seconds to get the blood flowing. And correct me if I'm wrong, you should have a residual film of oil on the metal parts even if it's been sitting for hours. I think this is where using a quality oil with a good anti wear pkg comes into play. Those elements provide a sacrificial layer between the metal parts in those few seconds it takes to get the blood flowing throughout the engine. I'm sure the oil gurus will find something to correct in that, but I think the basic idea is true. ...
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by John344
I was thinking that it's a dry engine until the pump send the oil to the engine parts because if you notice in the other video inside the car, the sound went off after the oil icon in the gauge cluster went off.

With your ambient air temps and you using a 5w40 it ain't gonna take but a few seconds to get the blood flowing. And correct me if I'm wrong, you should have a residual film of oil on the metal parts even if it's been sitting for hours. I think this is where using a quality oil with a good anti wear pkg comes into play. Those elements provide a sacrificial layer between the metal parts in those few seconds it takes to get the blood flowing throughout the engine. I'm sure the oil gurus will find something to correct in that, but I think the basic idea is true. ...


It is true, oil is supposed to "stick" to the moving parts/oiled sections of the rotating assembly for residual something to be on the moving parts until the oil pumps it back up, which on a hot start is within a second or faster and on a cold morning is usually very fast if using a nice thin oil with very good cold flow properties.

I remember reading somewhere that a Group 5 oil had the best properties of sticking to the parts..
Group 4 had the worst cold-flow properties..
And Group 3 has become very, very good, leading to questions on whether boutique Group 4 or 5 oils are worth it.

I would think that gravity would drain all the oil down eventually, there may be some things in the oil that make it sit on the oiled sections so it is not a dry start.

And "tick tick tick" sometimes called typewriter sound on start up they call that Lifter Tick, it is so common.
 
I don't think pao has worst cold properties, but rather the best. Am I wrong?

Group 4 had an issue with lspi events compared to group 3, last thing I heard that group 4 didn't outperform 3, I would always welcome other info you if you can find it.
 
That's the same noise my neighbor's Genesis makes when she starts it on a cold morning. It reminds me of what a car with dangerously low oil sounds like. That definitely doesn't sound like lifter tick,it's too deep of a frequency.

Try a different oil,because that's what my 3000GT sounded like on Castrol Syntec. With dino oil,it made no dry start noise at all. Completely smooth and silent.
 
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