Let's Talk About Oil and Lawn Mowers

[tasch72]

Doesn't need to be thicker, just wondering what would provide better protection. All of these replies are just what people have been using. I'm looking for an explanation of which oil would be "better".

Ah okay. Everyone's going to have a different opinion on what they value in a motor oil and think is "better" than something else. I think the most objective thing to do would be to look at the different certifications and their correlating tests.

Lubrizol has a tool that compares the different requirements needed to get an approval. BMW LL-01 (2018) is a very high standard, exceeding API SP, Dexos 1, Dexos 2, VW 502.00/505.00, nudges out Porsche A40, and requires an HTHS of >/= 3.5.

My local walmart stocks both Quaker State and Castrol Edge Euro 5w-40, which both meet BMW LL-01.

Or, if you want a 5w-30, BMW LL-04 includes additional standards for fuel economy and aftertreatment compatibility that LL-01 doesn't require, and you should be able to find Pennzoil Platinum Euro L pretty easily.

 

[jeepman3071]

There is no correct answer as far as "better" as a blanket statement for all types of OPE.

The oil I put in my brand new Toro Super Recycler with a Honda GCV160 might not be ideal for my 1960's Gravely Walkbehind tractor or my snowblower. The only answer that I think fits every scenario, is oil that is thin as possible but thick as necessary. Meaning whatever provides good start-up protection while also not burning off too quickly. In short, as a small engine mechanic I have found changing the oil at the proper intervals as well as keeping the level full has a much greater impact on lifespan over oil brand or grade used. You could run el-cheapo 5w20 and have no issues if you keep the level topped up, and I have customers who have been doing exactly that for years.

 

[BMW Dom]

Ah okay. Everyone's going to have a different opinion on what they value in a motor oil and think is "better" than something else. I think the most objective thing to do would be to look at the different certifications and their correlating tests.

Lubrizol has a tool that compares the different requirements needed to get an approval. BMW LL-01 (2018) is a very high standard, exceeding API SP, Dexos 1, Dexos 2, VW 502.00/505.00, nudges out Porsche A40, and requires an HTHS of >/= 3.5.

My local walmart stocks both Quaker State and Castrol Edge Euro 5w-40, which both meet BMW LL-01.

Or, if you want a 5w-30, BMW LL-04 includes additional standards for fuel economy and aftertreatment compatibility that LL-01 doesn't require, and you should be able to find Pennzoil Platinum Euro L pretty easily.

Hmm. Maybe I should go with an a40/ ll-01 approved oil.

 

[#18FAN]

Hmm. Maybe I should go with an a40/ ll-01 approved oil.

Or Amsoil ASF

 

[RazorsEdge]

Don't overthink everything

Put a 30-40 weight oil in, change the air filter,fuel filter,good blades and start cutting that turf!

 

[tundraotto]

I'll make this simple
Mobil 1 15W50 - HTHS 4.5
15W40 HDEO - HTHS usually 4.1-4.3
0W-40 - HTHS around 3.7
Mobil 10W-30HM - HTHS 3.5

 

[Zaedock]

Worrying about HTHS on a splash lubed 6 or 7:1 compression ratio engine. LOL

 

[gman2304]

I have used Rotella 15w40 T5 in my 1998 JD JX75 with the Kawasaki 160V for years. 23 years old and runs like a top.

 

[JC1]

I was just reconsidering my options since now Walmart raised the price to almost 5 dollars a quart.
Thanks for the replies!

Are you buying oil by the quart? Just buy a jug and you're set for the whole season.

I picked up hour meters off eBay for $10 each and they are easy to set up.

 

[ka9mnx]

10w-40 SuperTech conventional in all my OPE (and my standby generator). None use or leak oil and they are averaging 20+ years. Usually the deck gets so bad I pitch them but on the garden tractor I've rebuilt (and repaired) the deck and pulley bearings several times. Oil gets changed when it looks dirty which is every 2+ years.

 

[FordMan59]

I'm in agreement that keeping a good quality oil in it and keeping it changed/topped off is the biggest concern. The 20HP Kohler I spoke about in my previous post got an oil/filter change every 50 hours as recommended. At somewhere between 700-800 hours I was usually adding 4-6 ounces between changes. Lots of people disagree with my usage of 10w40 in my vehicles but I've used 10w40 since the '70's and never had an issue with it's use in temps from negative single digits to around 105*F. Even had 10w40 in my car in Dec. 1989 when temps here hit -28*F. I retired a 1.9L Ford engine with 518K miles and the head was never off of it. Until about 250-300K miles it didn't lower the oil enough to top it back off between changes. Yes, by the time I retired it it was burning/leaking quite a bit but I'm really not sure how much was leaking and how much was burning. The only time I ever saw it smoke was when it was first started up in the mornings and then it only lasted a couple seconds. I always kept an eye on the oil level and when it got down 1/2 quart I'd top it back off. It only had a 4 quart capacity so a quart down would have been 25% of it it's total capacity.

My mom's mower has a 15.5 HP Kohler engine and I change oil/filter every 100 hours as recommended and usually add about 3-4 ounces between changes. It usually takes about 3-4 years to accumulate 100 hours since her yard is only a 1/2 acre. I'm not sure but I think her mower is a 2003 model. I just changed the oil in her trimming push mower a few weeks ago for the first time in 2 years and the oil still looked nearly unused, not black at all. I figure it gets somewhere between 10-15 hours use per summer.

 

[Hermann]

Valvoline Maxlife Full Syn 10w-30. One of the lowest NOACK numbers around. Have used for over 10 years and no mower has burned off or leaked anything. My 2¢

 

[Malo83]

30w Whatever.

 

[Hermann]

your way over thinking it, use whatever weight the manufacturer recommends and OCIs what the manufacturer recommends, any certified API oil will work

Yes, you can do that. But this is BITOG and anything about oil and its robustness, must be discussed ad-nauseum. Otherwise there would be no reason for BITOG to exist.

 

[Eddie]

10w30 Synthetic up to 100F. If over 100, I don't mow. Ed

 

[RazorsEdge]

10w30 Synthetic up to 100F. If over 100, I don't mow. Ed

That's funny! I'm not going outside either if it's 100 degrees

 

[BMW Dom]

Don't overthink everything

Put a 30-40 weight oil in, change the air filter,fuel filter,good blades and start cutting that turf!

I just worked outside for 3.5 hours, lol. Ya, I know, I'm overthinking this.

 

[BMW Dom]

Are you buying oil by the quart? Just buy a jug and you're set for the whole season.

I picked up hour meters off eBay for $10 each and they are easy to set up.

Yes, I am. That's why I was looking for advice so I know what to buy a jug of.

 

[RazorsEdge]

I just worked outside for 3.5 hours, lol. Ya, I know, I'm overthinking this.

I just re-seeded the entire lawn today

I ran 5w30 RP HMX in the rider last summer - no issues. Because I'm curious, I have switched to Amsoil 0w40 4 stroke oil. The tractor is running cooler so it's ok to experiment,but at the end of the day,as long as the oil is full I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[wpod]

Interesting that they say "Vanguard 15w50 provides the best protection"

Because it does. Thicker oil at high temperatures protects better