Just wondering if this a complete waste of time. Car is 5 years old and more than likely, but not a certainty,the bleeder screws would break off. I want to do a drain and fill (with a turkey baster) of the master cylinder reservoir. Good enough? I'd think that new fluid would eventually work its way throughout the system, kinda-sorta.
lazy man's brake flush
- Thread starter Nayov
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I did this to the Dakota a couple of months ago. IMO, it falls into the "a little better than nothing, *Absolutely* can't hurt anything" category.
If I had a car where the bleeder screws would probably break off from rust- Wow, road salt must really be nasty stuff- the turkey baster method is exactly what I'd do. JMO.
If I had a car where the bleeder screws would probably break off from rust- Wow, road salt must really be nasty stuff- the turkey baster method is exactly what I'd do. JMO.
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No, a drain and fill with a turkey baster of the master cylinder reservoir is not good enough. You need to do a complete flush via the bleeder screws. The bleeder screws are hard metal and it's very difficult to break it.
No, it's not "good enough." It won't hurt, but the fluid just doesn't circulate. You're not getting any benefits by changing just the fluid in the reservoir. Get a helper and flush and bleed the system properly. Or buy a pressure bleeder if you want to do a one-man bleed.
Originally Posted By: Rooy
No, it's not "good enough."
LOL, it was good enough for that part of the used car certification at the Honda dealer I used to work for.
We sucked out the yellow fluid and put in nice new clear fluid....in the reservoir where you could see it.
No surprise at a place that would up-sell "paint sealer" to the customer for $300.
The paint sealer was a bottle of touch up paint thrown in the glove box. That's right, $300.
No, it's not "good enough."
LOL, it was good enough for that part of the used car certification at the Honda dealer I used to work for.
We sucked out the yellow fluid and put in nice new clear fluid....in the reservoir where you could see it.
No surprise at a place that would up-sell "paint sealer" to the customer for $300.
The paint sealer was a bottle of touch up paint thrown in the glove box. That's right, $300.
do a real flush
Aren't bleeder screws nickel coated brass?
Sure seemed like it when I replaced them on my Ford F-150 a month or 2 back.
Sure seemed like it when I replaced them on my Ford F-150 a month or 2 back.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
The bleeder screws are hard metal and it's very difficult to break it.
Oh my Gosh you live in salt-free California so you can't imagine. Also, the caliper is made of aluminum and the screw, obviously steel -- not a good marriage of metals.
The bleeder screws are hard metal and it's very difficult to break it.
Oh my Gosh you live in salt-free California so you can't imagine. Also, the caliper is made of aluminum and the screw, obviously steel -- not a good marriage of metals.
Originally Posted By: Nayov
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
The bleeder screws are hard metal and it's very difficult to break it.
Oh my Gosh you live in salt-free California so you can't imagine. Also, the caliper is made of aluminum and the screw, obviously steel -- not a good marriage of metals.
True, we have no problem with rusting because of salt on the road in winter. It was very easy to loosen and tighten the 16-17 years old bleeder screws on the Lexus LS400.
Anyway, lazy brake flush is not a good idea, a complete flush should be done every 2-3 years, if you are lazy then 4-5 years is max.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
The bleeder screws are hard metal and it's very difficult to break it.
Oh my Gosh you live in salt-free California so you can't imagine. Also, the caliper is made of aluminum and the screw, obviously steel -- not a good marriage of metals.
True, we have no problem with rusting because of salt on the road in winter. It was very easy to loosen and tighten the 16-17 years old bleeder screws on the Lexus LS400.
Anyway, lazy brake flush is not a good idea, a complete flush should be done every 2-3 years, if you are lazy then 4-5 years is max.
How many cars on the road do you think "ever" had a Brake fluid flush-Really? Because I can never remmember doing one on any car, I ever had and some where well over 10 to 15 years old. I dont know one person that ever did a brake fluid flush, except on here which, I dont have to remind you is filled with alot of anxiety friendly people. I hardly even know any people that flush their cooling systems. Most cars you pass on the road are lucky iif they even change their oil. Do the turkey baster, feel good about yourself and sleep relaxed. Its more than alot of people do.
If this were my car and I was nervous about the bleed screws breaking then I would buy a set of speed bleeder screws and swap them in while doing a full brake fluid flush. Then future brake fluid flushes would be done with new bleed screws that would be less likely to break and the new bleed screws would allow me to do the flushes myself.
I agree with the others that a full brake fluid flush should be carried out, and no short cuts should be taken.
In my opinion I don't think the 5 year old brake bleed screws would break when loosened/tightened. I have cars more than 3x older and my area uses chemicals on the roads in the winter when we get snow accumulations, and I don't have any issues with breaking the bleeders when bleeding my brake systems.
I agree with the others that a full brake fluid flush should be carried out, and no short cuts should be taken.
In my opinion I don't think the 5 year old brake bleed screws would break when loosened/tightened. I have cars more than 3x older and my area uses chemicals on the roads in the winter when we get snow accumulations, and I don't have any issues with breaking the bleeders when bleeding my brake systems.
Never broke a bleeder but, I tap them with a sharp rap on the top before loosing them. In addition; I spray with blaster or similar before the tap. I also use the correct box wrench and NOT a crescent or pliers or other tool.
turkey baster in the master done 2-3 times over a 3 week period . then pull the furthest bleeder screw if you can and let it drain by itself. refill. done
same with power steering fluid. use synthetic the last time... done.
if your brakes are spongy , that is a different ball game.
you nervous nellies are getting too paranoid.
same with power steering fluid. use synthetic the last time... done.
if your brakes are spongy , that is a different ball game.
you nervous nellies are getting too paranoid.
Originally Posted By: river_rat
Originally Posted By: Rooy
No, it's not "good enough."
LOL, it was good enough for that part of the used car certification at the Honda dealer I used to work for.
We sucked out the yellow fluid and put in nice new clear fluid....in the reservoir where you could see it.
LOL at least your dealership did that. The Honda Dealership where I worked, all cars certified or not got the same once over. A very quick once over. What a scam!
OP crack the bleeders and do the right job, or get a one man bleeder. Squirt a little PB blaster on those bleeders a day or two before opening the bleeders, then hit them again and tap them to set up vibration when you're ready to bleed them. If all else fails a little heat usually works.
Originally Posted By: Rooy
No, it's not "good enough."
LOL, it was good enough for that part of the used car certification at the Honda dealer I used to work for.
We sucked out the yellow fluid and put in nice new clear fluid....in the reservoir where you could see it.
LOL at least your dealership did that. The Honda Dealership where I worked, all cars certified or not got the same once over. A very quick once over. What a scam!
OP crack the bleeders and do the right job, or get a one man bleeder. Squirt a little PB blaster on those bleeders a day or two before opening the bleeders, then hit them again and tap them to set up vibration when you're ready to bleed them. If all else fails a little heat usually works.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
If you are going to do it...... do it the right way and flush all of it.
+1. Brake fluid doesn't circulate through the system well if at all, since there is no return line from the calipers. This was fairly obvious when I was doing brake work a few weeks ago... the first few pumps were much darker and a bit cloudy. It cleared up very rapidly from there.
If you see rust at the bleeder screws, there would be cause for concern... but mine were OK after 4 years. They have had minimal salt exposure which helps, since in NC we just shut everything down if there's an inch of snow.
In any case, PB Blaster plus a *gentle* tab on the bleeder screw may help get it to come loose with less risk of breaking.
If you are going to do it...... do it the right way and flush all of it.
+1. Brake fluid doesn't circulate through the system well if at all, since there is no return line from the calipers. This was fairly obvious when I was doing brake work a few weeks ago... the first few pumps were much darker and a bit cloudy. It cleared up very rapidly from there.
If you see rust at the bleeder screws, there would be cause for concern... but mine were OK after 4 years. They have had minimal salt exposure which helps, since in NC we just shut everything down if there's an inch of snow.
In any case, PB Blaster plus a *gentle* tab on the bleeder screw may help get it to come loose with less risk of breaking.
Note to self, avoid used car/SUV from people in Daytona, Florida.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Note to self, avoid used car/SUV from people in Daytona, Florida.
Perfect example would be company vehicles, my current company truck has 148,000 miles and I know the brake fluid has never been changed, I dont even think the transmission fluid ever has. Not one truck, out of about 50. I am betting 80% of the vehicles on the highway, have never had brake fluid flushes, from being put in service till they eventaully die or are wrecked, unless there has been a brake problem. Brake fuid, unless contaminated, should really never wear out, its a hydraulic oil in a sealed system. Again, compulsive disorder taking over.
Note to self, avoid used car/SUV from people in Daytona, Florida.
Perfect example would be company vehicles, my current company truck has 148,000 miles and I know the brake fluid has never been changed, I dont even think the transmission fluid ever has. Not one truck, out of about 50. I am betting 80% of the vehicles on the highway, have never had brake fluid flushes, from being put in service till they eventaully die or are wrecked, unless there has been a brake problem. Brake fuid, unless contaminated, should really never wear out, its a hydraulic oil in a sealed system. Again, compulsive disorder taking over.
Search for gravity bleed. In my case, Ford advises against the brake fluid flush altogether. Unless one had critical parts replaced.
I keep vehicles for a LONG time... so brake fluid flushes are worthwhile to me.
I flush brake fluid every several years or when it looks nasty. I use a turkey baster to refresh what's in the reservoir, then gravity-bleed at each wheel. I usually do this when the wheels are off for some other reasons (replacing/checking brakes or something), so it's easy to get to the bleeder screws. If I've never messed with them before, I'll remove, clean, and antiseize each bleeder screw- makes life much easier in the future.
And for folks who only deal with newer vehicles and/or vehicles in non-rusty areas... bleeder screws can and do break. It isn't uncommon on old/rusty vehicles. A whack with hammer definitely helps- and antiseize can prevent it entirely.
I flush brake fluid every several years or when it looks nasty. I use a turkey baster to refresh what's in the reservoir, then gravity-bleed at each wheel. I usually do this when the wheels are off for some other reasons (replacing/checking brakes or something), so it's easy to get to the bleeder screws. If I've never messed with them before, I'll remove, clean, and antiseize each bleeder screw- makes life much easier in the future.
And for folks who only deal with newer vehicles and/or vehicles in non-rusty areas... bleeder screws can and do break. It isn't uncommon on old/rusty vehicles. A whack with hammer definitely helps- and antiseize can prevent it entirely.
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