Brake Flush Methods

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Another vote for the Motive bleeder, although I just flushed out our 01 Cavalier brakes using a Mityvac. This was the first flush and man that old fluid was nasty looking.

Don't monkey around using a turkey baster to swap out a few ounces of fluid in the MV reservoir - the real crud is in the lines and especially in the caliper and/or drum brake reservoirs. Also, by doing a real flush you are introducing clean fresh fluid into the ABS which is a good thing.
 
How was it using the Mityvac? I have been contemplating getting one, but was not sure of its break bleeding performance...

Which model do you have? Any pump problems?
 
Mityvac Silverline 04000 is the one you want. There is a huge difference in the price though, depending on who you by from.


Forget about Speed Bleeders; they are junk. If anyone wants to know the full story on them, just PM me.
 
Pzev, I have the basic Mityvac pump kit - no gauge or anything, but it has worked fine for many years. It works very well on drawing a vacuum on any brake system that I have used it on. You will be happy with it. The kit comes with a reservoir and hoses to draw the fluid out with.

Gotta agree with Goldenrod - I have tried Speedbleeders on 2 cars and wound up taking them off and throwing them away.
 
BEANOIL which version of the Motive product do you use? Is the master cylinder cap universal for all cylinders or do you have to buy one that is appropriate for your car?

Thanks
 
Just my 2 cents, but I use my hand to pump the pedal and only move it an inch each stroke. It takes lots of strokes, but it eventually gets good clean fluid.

Plus to open an old bleeder, I use PB Blaster a few days before I'm going to do this, being careful to only spray the bleeder. Then using a 6 point socket on my 1/4" drive rachet, I try to open it. Some tapping with a small ballpeen helps.

I've never done an 11 year old car, but I've done some 6 year old ones, and I've never had a problem.
 
I agree about the speed bleeders. And the pressurized Mite Vac that has the hose you need to insert into the MC orifice is worthless for a one man job. Just replaces the leg and pumping the pedal.

11 year old fluid is way contaminated. It will rust up the wheel cylinders and deteriorate the hoses. And getting the bleeders loose will be fun. Use some heat from a propane torch first and be sure to use the correct sized 6 sided box wrench.

Here's how I do it and at least twice a year or before a bit of Road racing.

What I do is take a length of appropriate sized clear vinyl hose, insert a short bolt in the drain can end and put a hose clamp around it. Then just above the bolt cut a 1/2" slit in the hose.

At the caliper end put the hose on and use a hose clamp to secure to the bleeder screw.

Then pump the brakes as you normally would. As the fluid is pushed out the hose the slit opens, when the pressure is off the hose the slit seals up. Works great.
 
if i know i have all the air out of the system, i just gravity bleed. sure it takes a while, but its the safest way to prevent air from re-entering the system.
 
SHOZ has the right idea. I bought a commerical unit that is this same thing but with a little one way floating ball valve in the end. I and and my son have used it and done brakes alone for years. The only problem I have is that for some odd reason my front and real brake nipples are different size and I need a size adaptor hose.
 
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Observation: labman must be on vacation.
 
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