Lamborghini Murcielago

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Hey Joey, Where in West Orange did you live? I live in North Caldwell, about two towns over. Why did you move? more open road?
 
When you change the oil in the Lamborghini put 10 quarts back in the oil tank and 2 quarts into the valve cover port.

Currently I am using Renewable Lubricants Incorporated, RLI, motor oils in all my cars. The Enzo gets 0W-30 and the others get 0W-20, including the Murcielago and Maybach 57s AMG-with Renntech upgraded chips for even more zip.

My wife did not want to move from the Red Line 5W-20 from her Murcielago but immediately fell in love with the RLI after the change.

aehaas
 
Originally Posted By: JoeyM
...i am a cheap [censored].


You came to the right place
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Originally Posted By: JoeyM

i just ordered the parts. oil filter = $55. 2 crush washers and one rubber plug = another $40. so $95 for an oil filter (just regular screw on type, 2 crush washers, and a rubber plug. ha!


Get your parts from http://www.ricambiamerica.com/index.php?cPath=75
less than a buck for the crush washers. All OEM stuff too
 
Originally Posted By: JoeyM
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02


How much oil does it take?


it takes about 12 quarts. which i thought wasn't that bad, considering the watercooled porsches take about 9 and are a little over half of the displacement.


Be careful not to overfill. The entire system takes 12.5 qt but you won't get all of it out. Some will remain in the oil cooler and oil lines, some will cling to the engine. I'd figure about 1.5 qt won't drain
 
Originally Posted By: tonycarguy
Originally Posted By: JoeyM
...i am a cheap [censored].


You came to the right place
56.gif


Originally Posted By: JoeyM

i just ordered the parts. oil filter = $55. 2 crush washers and one rubber plug = another $40. so $95 for an oil filter (just regular screw on type, 2 crush washers, and a rubber plug. ha!


Get your parts from http://www.ricambiamerica.com/index.php?cPath=75
less than a buck for the crush washers. All OEM stuff too



ricambi is actually where i ordered from. $95 was their oil change kit for the murc. maybe it included a new drain plug too. it hasnt come yet, so i guess i'll see.

thanks for the info though!
 
Something makes me feel like we are all missing the point by arguing over which oil to use when there are many more fragile, expensive components on that car which break more often than an engine with whatever parts you choose and also require more care and attention (and fat wallet)
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I'm sure Redline will be just fine in whatever weight makes you happy.

Maybe I'm just crazy?
 
Does stuff really break on those cars any more? For some reason, I thought the main reason they are expensive to own is that the regular maintenance is frequent, elaborate, and expensive.
 
The car is motor and body/chassis to get power to wheels. My wife has had the Murcielago since delivery in January of 2004 and has had nothing but fluid changes to date. Ok, maybe I replaced the wiper blade - at something like $200!

A four tire change is not far off. Actually it has been the car requiring the least amount of upkeep of any we own, and the most reliable sans 2 batteries.

We are now at around 10,000 miles and 90 % is city driving.

aehaas
 
One of my friends owns a 328 and it is reliable. It is not as exotic as the newer iron but the labor to do any thing is time consuming. I have done the cam belt services etc. on it. They sure are pretty. Though my hot Italian blood would for some reason own a Porsche. I really am not a car person though.
 
My friend orders from Ricambi and is really happy with their service. In fact after the cambelt ,Air conditioning hose, reciever dryer various hose replacement I got the Ricambi hat!!!.
 
The oil you need to use can be determined by the instruments in the car itself. The Murci has both oil temp and oil press gauges.

A: if on one of your back road trips, the oil temps never get above 235dF, then you can easily go down 2 SAE weights. If you oil temps never get above 270dF you can easily go down one SAE weight.

B.1: if you oil pressure gauge is reading more than (10 + 10,000/RPM) PSI when completely warm then you are running a thick enough oil.
B.2: If your oil pressure is reading more (20 + 20,000/RPM) PSI then there is a good chance you are running an oil that is thicker than you need.
B.3: until the oil pressure gets high enough to blow the pop off valve and pressure rises no more.

The only way I can get my Ferrari (recommended 10W-40 Shell UH) oil sufficiently hot to be above B.1 and to be below B.2 is when I have spend at least 20 minutes running on race tracks and the oil is about 300dF. This takes R-compound tires, I can't get this oil above 285dF with street tires (B S03s). With 10W-30 Redline I remain above B.1 (barely) while running the living snot out of the car in Texas summer heat on street tires--oil temp right at 285dF.

I suspect your Murci has sufficient oil cooling to enable you to operate one grade below recommended (maybe even two--depending on how you drive), but you must take responsibility to WATCH the TEMPERATURE gauge rather continuously. As long as the temps remain below 260 there is nothing to worry about 1 grade thinner, between 260dF and 285dF you need to watch carefuly, but there is no need to alter your driving style. Between 285dF and 305dF is where you should remain concerned as to whether your choice of one grade lighter is worthy, and adjust you riving style so that the oil returns below 285dF.

Why 285dF? This is my edumacated guestimate as to where one grade lighter oil has an HTHS reading equal to the spec grade oil at 305dF. For example: Redline 10W-30 oil has an HTHS of 3.8, the Factory spec oil has an HTHS of 4.2 at 305dF. When RL 10W-30 is around 285dF its going to have about that 4.2 cP of High Sheer viscosity that that 10W-40 oil had at 305dF.
 
It is always amazing how Mitch can use just a few sentences to say what takes me a book to describe. He uses real live racing data to illustrate his points, nothing random here. Thank you.

aehaas
 
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what are the advantages for running a thinner oil?

fuel economy? the car is rated at 9mpg city, so i dont think it matters much to me.

hp? again, if i was beating on the car and wanted every last hp, i think i would be concerned about the oil temps and want a thicker oil.

less wear on startup? this i wonder about too, because if u read the ferrari chat thread that was blasting AEHaas, there is a ferrari mechanic on there that said in 30 years of wrenching on ferrari's he never saw wearing of parts due to failure of the oil. i also doubt too, that even if i own this car for my entire lifetime, it probably will never reach even 75k miles.

so forgive my ignorance, as i stated earlier, i am no oil expert, i am just learning here.

but y again do i want a thinner oil?
 
Let's take a step back even further: Why do you want any oil other than the factory oil?
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No oil will give you any more than slight gains here and there. If that's not convincing for you, stick with what Lamborghini recommends.
 
"...the advice I give to all BITOG readers is to use a lubricant of the correct viscosity that is specified by the Manufacturer and Listed by them as Approved – especially when under any form of Warranty"... Doug Hillary
 
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Originally Posted By: Steve S
My friend orders from Ricambi and is really happy with their service. In fact after the cambelt ,Air conditioning hose, reciever dryer various hose replacement I got the Ricambi hat!!!.
The AC hoses were made up at a local hose shop and the A/C parts can be found local for way lower that any car specific parts store.
 
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