Lake Speed jr. Thick vs. Thin video.

Stick around b/c I am about to learn how to pre-fill a cartridge filter that is in the vertical position on top of the engine. Very much looking forward to this. I guess I could install the filter on the housing, exposed w/no case, then pour oil all over like hot-fudge on a sundae, then put the cover on? :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
The obvious solution hasnt been verbalized yet.

Flip the car upside down.

Or, shoot the car into space, then gravity has new problems.
 
I disagree actually. I know guys with a list of patents as long as your arm (that are actually used not just registered) that are very good listeners. In fact they compose there thoughts and answer very concisely.
That's a learned and refined behaviour, FWIW, particularly for somebody with ADD/ADHD. I used to talk a mile a minute; basically a brain dump at an insanely high rate of speed and would, when a thought came to mind, mid conversation, have a tendency to interject and talk over. Taking control of that behaviour, slowing down, waiting for the other person to finish, it's challenging, but can definitely be done, but you have to work at it.
 
I own a crosstrek with upside down filter I still pre fill.
And the filter will be empty when you start it in the morning.

But I get it; I prefill ours also during the OC; it is the draw of the upside-down filter mount on these F series engines staring up at me!

A Diesel Mechanic (associate and partner in hot rod repair and refurbishment crime) yelled "that's a fire-able offense in his shop" when he saw me pouring bottled oil down the outlet spud. I also pour it down the drill and convoluted machined passages to the to the pump. I had to head to the shop and get the thing on a lift to do my wife's OCI as the dealer monkey wailed on the drain plug. Then I was watched doing my BITOG dirty work!

Subaru F series oil pump in the front TC engine cover -

FB oil pump2.jpg
 
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Race cars run water so if there's a spill it's easy to clean up from the track surface. Anti-freeze is more slippery and persistent on pavement. They typically raise the boiling point by running higher coolant pressures than production cars.
Water + water wetter is the way to go for a race engine and yes tracks often won't allow coolant b/c of how much of a mess it makes when it spills.
 
I would hope an engine is machined and assembled with tight tolerances in mind.
My old 65 Buick 401 Nailhead had a unilateral tol of +3 tenths (0.0003") on the conrod big ends way back some almost 60 years ago.

But even that is considered (by me) to be a modern engine compared to when we were pouring liquid babbitt into the shell to make a bearing.
 
Stick around b/c I am about to learn how to pre-fill a cartridge filter that is in the vertical position on top of the engine. Very much looking forward to this. I guess I could install the filter on the housing, exposed w/no case, then pour oil all over like hot-fudge on a sundae, then put the cover on? :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
People have mentioned flood mode, which is very simple on some cars like subaru. Our motors require disconnecting power from the fuel system (hpfp connector + LPFP fuse works) and coil packs then hitting the ignition to run the oil pump.

Once primed, the filter will stay filled with oil until you loosen the oil filter housing, which then opens up the relief valve and allows oil to freely drain back down.

Congrats, now you have learned how to pre-fill your filter.
 
Normal engines have tighter tolerances?
Well, according to the guy who was with Lake, the engine they used does have a “number of differences to a normal engine, not just in clearances and tolerances, but in materials as well”. None of us know what specs they built their engine to, so we have to take him at his word.

However, it’s not surprising at all that many purpose-built LSX engines are built to a main bearing clearance range of .0021-.0025 inches, whereas the fuel efficient but gutless 2.0L Nu engine in my Elantra has a spec of .00063-.00134 inches. Materials matter too, of course.
 
I wouldn’t go as far as saying that. I’m certainly not going to start running 20w50 in my Civic. And you’re forgetting about thinner oils performance in cold weather too. And for people who don’t drive hard, the thinner oils will protect their engines just as much as thicker ones but will give you slightly better MPG. Even if it’s only giving you 0.5-1 MPG more, over the life of your car that’s still a savings.

So you can’t just say it beats it in every way. LSJ even mentions in the video that the usage of a particular engine will determine what you should choose. There is no one size fits all with oil.
Come on 20-50. We know that’s not good for winter. But if I had an oil burning civic, and summer time temps over 100 and lows in the 70s. 20/50 would be fine. I know I had many jap cars where the owners manual stated 15/40 if you lived in the UAE. Otherwise select your favorite flavor. With 0/20 for most mpg
 
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