Kreen Experiences

Messages
7,930
Location
Hudson, NH
My order of Kreen shipped. Came with a free can of Aero Kroil. On the can: Directions Put a pint of Kreen in the gas and another in the oil every 1000 miles. Complete Purge Directions: When the motor is badly clogged with carbon and using an excess amount of oil, it needs a Kreen purge. Remove the plugs and squirt about an ounce of Kreen into each cylinder. Replace the plugs and turn the motor a few times with the starter. Then let it rest for at least half an hour-overnight if practical. Add a quart of Kreen into the old oil and a pint into each five gallons of gas in the tank, and run the motor half an hour or longer. drain and fill with fresh oil. Plan to use a pint and run for 1k at the end of the next OCI coming up shortly. Did anyone use it differently than the instructions? How did it work for people?
 
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Messages
19,686
Location
Sunny Florida
Fantastic product. I used it exactly as directed, 2 cups in the oil and 2 cups in the gas. Worked in less than 30 minutes of driving. I left it in for a full day and then changed the oil and filter. PRESTO! A 400k mile motor that is almost as quiet as when new.
 
Messages
35,818
Location
NY
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Fantastic product. I used it exactly as directed, 2 cups in the oil and 2 cups in the gas. Worked in less than 30 minutes of driving. I left it in for a full day and then changed the oil and filter. PRESTO! A 400k mile motor that is almost as quiet as when new.
Nice. I have an OCI coming up, and a 2 week job to start which is a 30 mile highway drive each way. I might just add a pint of Kreen to my E-150 before I start that job, and change the oil at some point after I finish the job.
 
Messages
25,985
Location
Upstate NY
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Fantastic product. I used it exactly as directed, 2 cups in the oil and 2 cups in the gas. Worked in less than 30 minutes of driving. I left it in for a full day and then changed the oil and filter. PRESTO! A 400k mile motor that is almost as quiet as when new.
How do you quantify "worked"? It would seem if an engine got to the point where it really needed some extra help, that there is enough crud in enough places that you want to get it removed slowly. I am suspect of something that can do wonders in the oil and gas.
 
Messages
19,686
Location
Sunny Florida
I quantify "worked" as removing the assorted tics and tacks this motor has made upon startup both hot and cold. YMMV. I recommend you not use it if you don't like it! It makes no difference to me.
 
Messages
35,818
Location
NY
SteveSRT8- As far as I can tell Kreen is not a fast flush, but an aggressive slow cleaner which works well on sludge and varnish. A lot of products seem to have a hard time with varnish, some do nothing at all to it. Nice to hear you had fast results. I've had MMO stop lifter ticks in fairly short order too, and it is also a slow cleaner. Not as potent or as aggressive as Kreen though. Sometimes it's a little bit of junk plugging up a lifter and it doesn't take much for a good cleaning product to unplug it.
 
Messages
2,183
Location
Lexington, KY
I use kreen on my BMW to stop a sticky lifter at warm idle. It seemed to help. Even so, I have since learned that a warm idle tick may be caused by low oil pressure as well. However it did not clean out years of varnish in my case. I think it is an excellent product when used properly
 
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Messages
19,686
Location
Sunny Florida
Good points. It's not a miracle in a can. But at least it does exactly what they said it would. I would say most high mileage motors would benefit from a dosage!
 
Messages
1,154
Location
Richmond, VA
My two friends have early miatas with hydraulic lifters and the Amsoil Engine Flush solved it for both of them. One had 2 ticks on cold start but that's it! We have a forum just for our group and here's what he posted for future posterity:
Quote:
Not too long ago, I purchased a bottle of the Amsoil engine/transmission flush treatment to hopefully ease the HLA tick common to Miatas. I should admit that I am one of the biggest skeptics when it come to those save-all/cure-all miracle engine treatments. Let me first explain the symptoms I see when driving my car. As I mentioned, I always get the cold startup HLA tick. Said tick in a well maintained Miata engine should only last 1-3 seconds, then dissipate as the oil pressure builds. Since we bumped my timing up to(a rather aggressive)16 degrees, I have noticed that one of the HLAs began to tick once the engine reaches operating temps, albeit only slightly. Also, if I let my engine idle long enough for the fan to come on, I'll get a rather noisy tick that some of you may have heard that same night we bumped my timing. It will only stop when I go for a drive, or stop the engine and allow it to cool. Yesterday, I replaced that Royal Purple [censored] with my usual Mobil1 10w-30, and used the Amsoil engine flush. Here are my impressions so far. The bottle said to run the engine for 10-15 minutes after adding it to your oil. I ran mine for 20 or so, then shut it down and allowed it to cool enough to work without being burned. When I removed the drainplug, I couldn't help but notice how dark the oil was for having only 1500 miles on it(why an oil change so soon? Royal Purple is waaay too expensive, and makes my HLAs chatter much more than they normally do), and it's water-like consistency. Normally my dirty oil has a well, oil-like consistency. Upon emptying my drainpan(which I clean to spotless after each use)I found small black specs of stuff in the pan. It wasn't a lot of stuff, but it was stuff nonetheless. After allowing my engine to sit for a few hours, I started it up and noticed that my usual startup HLA tick was virtually inaudible. I attributed this to oil being present on the valvetrain after the oil change procedure. The slight tick after the engine reaches temps was gone. The tick I get when allowing the engine to idle long enough for the fans to come on didn't occur. After I let the engine sit all night long then started it up first thing this morning, again the cold startup tick was virtually inaudible, and lasted for roughly 1 second as opposed to the normal 2-3. I should also note that the oil pressure is a bit lower, possibly because the oil pump isn't working so hard to push oil through possibly dirty passages. Understand that these are my results after 1 day, so I'll report back later with more long-term results.
 
Messages
25,985
Location
Upstate NY
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I quantify "worked" as removing the assorted tics and tacks this motor has made upon startup both hot and cold. YMMV. I recommend you not use it if you don't like it! It makes no difference to me.
My point was most of what BITOG members do is somewhat subjective. Hard to quantify if it was the additive that worked or a fresh oil change or different filter or getting colder so the windows are rolled up. On the one in a 100 or 1000 chance that something like Kreen or MMO would loosen a large enough piece of crud to block or partially block an oil galley, I feel its safer to use the cleaning additives in synthetic oil or something like Auto-Rx that from the get-go says its slow working to clean up an engine. You may feel differently and thats fine. I cannot even say that Auto-Rx works.
 
Messages
1,154
Location
Richmond, VA
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I quantify "worked" as removing the assorted tics and tacks this motor has made upon startup both hot and cold. YMMV. I recommend you not use it if you don't like it! It makes no difference to me.
My point was most of what BITOG members do is somewhat subjective. Hard to quantify if it was the additive that worked or a fresh oil change or different filter or getting colder so the windows are rolled up. On the one in a 100 or 1000 chance that something like Kreen or MMO would loosen a large enough piece of crud to block or partially block an oil galley, I feel its safer to use the cleaning additives in synthetic oil or something like Auto-Rx that from the get-go says its slow working to clean up an engine. You may feel differently and thats fine. I cannot even say that Auto-Rx works.
Why does auto-rx seem safer?
 

LeakySeals

Thread starter
Messages
7,930
Location
Hudson, NH
I stumbled onto Kreen after reading several posts about solving oil consumption from ring blowby, valve seals that didn't seat properly, and varnish removal. Thought I'd tried them all in the last 25 years, never heard of the stuff. The testimonials are buried in other posts. All very positive. Was hoping for one Kreen thread.
 
Messages
1,340
Location
Louisville,KY
^ I think they started Kreen(Kroil) for engines not so long ago. Auto-rx worked slower. In all results after ARX, MMO,Kreen I had some hard grits in my filters. Now, I heard and found some very good results about Luiqi/Lubro Moly flushes. As mentioned they liquefy deposits, and you drain soupy thick oil,not just washing it away in grits form. I have a can sitting in my closet, can't wait to test it.
 
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Messages
25,985
Location
Upstate NY
Originally Posted By: brandini
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I quantify "worked" as removing the assorted tics and tacks this motor has made upon startup both hot and cold. YMMV. I recommend you not use it if you don't like it! It makes no difference to me.
My point was most of what BITOG members do is somewhat subjective. Hard to quantify if it was the additive that worked or a fresh oil change or different filter or getting colder so the windows are rolled up. On the one in a 100 or 1000 chance that something like Kreen or MMO would loosen a large enough piece of crud to block or partially block an oil galley, I feel its safer to use the cleaning additives in synthetic oil or something like Auto-Rx that from the get-go says its slow working to clean up an engine. You may feel differently and thats fine. I cannot even say that Auto-Rx works.
Why does auto-rx seem safer?
My reasons would include reading about it on the Auto-Rx website and what its composed of and how it works, along with discussions on BITOG. In addition the fact that it works slowly and that you add a small amount, thus its not likely to dilute the oil which could effect how well the oil lubricates. I have used it in 3 engines and have not had any problems. While it gets mixed reviews here, no one has said it has harmed an engine. I also subscribe to the saying "jack of all trades, master of none/few". Thus if they say to use in both gas and oil, I have my doubts. (Doubts about MMO also). If one really wanted to remove sludge, one would need to remove a valve cover and observe what kind and how much. If its hard and crusted then Auto-Rx or synthetic oil would be my first choice. If it was slimy then Amsoil engine flush. If I had carbon in the cylinders, then Techtron would be my choice. And my using Auto-Rx in 3 vehicles was also subjective. I did not do any before/after observations or compression tests.
 
Messages
19,686
Location
Sunny Florida
Donald, almost seems you have a particular dog in this fight. Oil dilution? ANYTHING added is diluting the oil. So that's moot. 3 engines? That's great, but hardly indicative of anything specific. I've used Kreen in 2 so far, one is quiet as a mouse months later and the other stopped using oil! Both have been treated repeatedly with ARX with ZERO results. Why not in both gas and oil? If it's a solvent based cleaner it has benefits in both areas. In our trucks it cleans the problematic PCV setup that plugs with carbon over time. Plus my motors have known issues with carbon build up in the head. Once again no ARX is going to help here. Kreen did, and with dramatic results. I simply stated that Kreen worked exactly as advertised in my fleet trucks. ARX did not. It's up to you to try them both and see if it works for you. Just bad-mouthing it because of your "feelings" is not helping anyone here.
 
Messages
26,154
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Quote:
How did it work for people?
Check out my threads on Kreen in the oil additives section. My brother and i spent a lot of money on ARX and got no results whatsoever. Kreen has worked beyond anything i expected in the engines i have used it on.
 
Messages
1,340
Location
Louisville,KY
There is also threads with my sludge monster with Kreen used in oil and piston soak(did a dramatic improvement), also thread about ARX. Same car. Both will be updated with pics soon, ARX in the end of this OCI (700 miles left) and then Kreen left overs will be used for the next OCI.
 
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LeakySeals

Thread starter
Messages
7,930
Location
Hudson, NH
Originally Posted By: Trav
Quote:
How did it work for people?
Check out my threads on Kreen in the oil additives section. My brother and i spent a lot of money on ARX and got no results whatsoever. Kreen has worked beyond anything i expected in the engines i have used it on.
Trav is one of the people I was referring to with great info on Kreen buried in other threads. My results were the same with Auto-Rx, nothing noticeable. People would say use more, give it time. Same for seafoam. A "Seafoaming" (as seen on youtube) cost me a cat and hours of removing deep creep from my IAC and 02 sensors so they could function again. Been using MMO off and on for 25 years, best results were cars with noisy lifters, minimal cleaning results. Years of rumors about Mobil 1 causing gasket leaks kept me away from it. For the first time ever last year I tried Mobil 1 high mileage on the old Toyota I bought cheap that has sludge, burns oil, blue smoke startups. Amazing. After the second run the oil burning stopped, now the 4th I'm down to a light brown varnish. Still has blue smoke, but now I know its only a few drops. I read that the varnish and remaining carbon can prevent the seals from seating properly, and Kreen is the answer. So, another experiment on the old toyota. Put kreen in the last 1k, dump the M1 HM, go back to plain old M1. That will tell us that the oil consumption was a symptom of a dirty engine, not a mechanical problem.
 
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