I live in N FL. No such thing as too thick at start here unless it's some severely oxidized used oil
Kia K5 GT oil suggestions
- Thread starter SilverFusion2010
- Start date
I live in N FL. No such thing as too thick at start here unless it's some severely oxidized used oil
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Deleted member 89374
I live in North Carolina. It's hot here as well.
Red Line Oil 5W-30 is a very good oil for turbo applications. If money is no object, go for it. Noack is a solid 6% and HTHS is 3.7. The cSt is in the same range as most 0W-40 oils. And LSPI (not that it matters in your case) isn't an issue with this oil.
I took a look at the datasheets for M1 ESP 5w-30. It does look like a good oil. You're probably gonna want to bonk me on the head, but I don't see that it's that different from the M1 HM 10w-30.
Both are HTHS of 3.5. the 5w-30 has 11.8 cst at 100C and the 10w-30 has 12 cst at 100C.
So to get the 5w they probably went with more PAO as the base and added VI to get the HTHS and viscosity.
The 10w you say is basically Group III oil with a dash of VI. The additive pack numbers look very similar.
Your opinion is that 10w is too thick at start and will somehow harm the engine? Or is your concern just about power losses? At temp those two oils will perform identically, though I suspect that the 10w with less VI will be more resistant to shearing down over time, but that's pure speculation.
I live in FL and the coldest I've seen it get here in the past few years has been low 20s. Not a problem for a 10w. I'm sure the 5w would spin a little faster when you hit the button but as long as it cranks I'm happy.
So what does 5w-30 do besides crank faster?
I like everything about the red line oil except the pricing...
M1 is on rebate right now.
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Deleted member 89374
Your Turbo bearings need oil as fast as possible when you start the engine. Thicker oil won't help. I'm not sure that there is a good reason to use 10W-30 for anything these days. My top pick goes to 0W-40 instead of 10W-30. It's just a better oil. The Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is a low SAPS oil. It's the closest thing to what you said you wanted - something that has HTHS of at least 3.5 and is also API SP compliant. The only reason why Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is not API SP is that it's not an energy-conserving oil, however, I'm pretty sure that it beats any off-the-shelf 5W-30 oil that you can get at Walmart.
Congrats on the new wheels. I'd stick with the Kia recommended viscosity, but I sure wouldn't dump synthetic oil every 3,000 miles. That's just wasteful. I'd do religious 5K oil changes and not worry about it.
I am going to UOA after the first couple of changes after the engine is done wearing in and see how the oil holds up.
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Deleted member 89374
Make sure to use a quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Treatment with every oil change
/sSeriously though, let us know what you pick. Again, do a couple of quick oil changes to get out the metals. I did the first oil change on the Sonata at 3000 miles and regretted not doing it sooner. The filter was full of sparkly metals.
I originally was going to change at 1k, but arcographite said 2k. I have no idea if the factory oil has any break-in additives. If someone knows, please share.Make sure to use a quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Treatment with every oil change
Seriously though, let us know what you pick. Again, do a couple of quick oil changes to get out the metals. I did the first oil change on the Sonata at 3000 miles and regretted not doing it sooner. The filter was full of sparkly metals.
One more thought... a jug of Supertech 5w-30 should be fine for 100 miles right? just to get the last bits of metal out?
I'll buy what I'm going to run of course, but it seems silly to dump a full syn after 100 miles
One more more thought... I think this engine may have a variable oil pump... trying to confirm that. If it does, what does that do to my oil choices?
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Deleted member 89374
What's a jug of Supertech going to save you, $5~$7? Not worth it. I used Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 in the Sonata for the 50 miles I did, just because thicker oil will carry more contaminants than a thinner oil. Then I went back to 0W-20. I would get a jug of Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 if I were you for $22 and dump it after 100 miles. If you like it, stick with it. The only reason I recommended Castrol EDGE 0W-40 was because it has lower sulfated ash, 1.1%, vs. Mobil's 1.3%. Or you could do 100 miles with Castrol EDGE 0W-40. Whatever oil you use, some of it will be left behind when you change your oil. That's why I didn't recommend Supertech. I mean, it's okay oil, but it's not for performance engines, that's for sure.
That's fair enough, with the current rebates M1 won't hurt too much.
Any thoughts on a variable oil pump? I'm still trying to determine if the 2.5 has one or not. It looks like the 1.6 does.
Actually... I have 4qt of my M1 HM 10w-30 already. I'll just pick up one more jug and give it a test. Then I'll try the FS 0w-40
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Deleted member 89374
That's fair enough, with the current rebates M1 won't hurt too much.
Any thoughts on a variable oil pump? I'm still trying to determine if the 2.5 has one or not. It looks like the 1.6 does.
Actually... I have 4qt of my M1 HM 10w-30 already. I'll just pick up one more jug and give it a test. Then I'll try the FS 0w-40
Yes, it does have a variable oil pump, and for good reason.
I would just march the four quarts of M1 HM 10W-30 into Walmart, and at $9/quart, you can get almost two 5 quart jugs of M1 FS 0W-40 for that money. Or a 12-quart carton.
It's a 5qt jug with 4qt left in it.
I will try the FS 0w-40 after the 10w-30. 100 miles is 3 work days for me, so it will probably be more like 180 miles. I have to go to my local dealer to buy filters.
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Deleted member 89374
if you’re not going to use EP’s long drain interval just use supertech or QSUD.
pp, vanilla edge and m1 are generally overpriced
pp, vanilla edge and m1 are generally overpriced
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Deleted member 89374
As opposed to?
budget d1g2 oils, c3 oils and EP d1g2 oils
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Deleted member 89374
I don't know if saving a couple of bucks here and there on oil is really the way to go. I don't buy oil by the quart of course because that gets expensive fast. However, to it's worth spending $25 per 5 quart jug of M1 EP 0W-20 as opposed to $19 for QSUD. It's just a better oil, no question about it.
@SilverFusion2010 I think that this is the factory fill in your engine: https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/0f0d9c18-b1e6-4d5f-9e18-c2d76fef1988.pdf
Ironically, it's an API SN ACEA C2/C3 oil. It's what they put in the Genesis turbos.
Leave it up to the Liberal Arts graduates to write Hyundai's owner's manuals, specifically the motor oil section
No, it doesn't ship with any kind of special oil or additives from the factory. Mass produced engines never do.
@SilverFusion2010
I read in another thread here that M1 ESP is currently on sale for $6.99/qt at NAPA.
Can't go wrong there!
I read in another thread here that M1 ESP is currently on sale for $6.99/qt at NAPA.
Can't go wrong there!
Thanks for this. At 11.9cst hot this oil is very close to the M1 HM 10w-40 and M1 FS 0w-40. I doubt I’ll be able to tell the difference.I don't know if saving a couple of bucks here and there on oil is really the way to go. I don't buy oil by the quart of course because that gets expensive fast. However, to it's worth spending $25 per 5 quart jug of M1 EP 0W-20 as opposed to $19 for QSUD. It's just a better oil, no question about it.
@SilverFusion2010 I think that this is the factory fill in your engine: https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/0f0d9c18-b1e6-4d5f-9e18-c2d76fef1988.pdf
Ironically, it's an API SN ACEA C2/C3 oil. It's what they put in the Genesis turbos.
Leave it up to the Liberal Arts graduates to write Hyundai's owner's manuals, specifically the motor oil section
No, it doesn't ship with any kind of special oil or additives from the factory. Mass produced engines never do.
bought some oil filters at the dealer yesterday. I’ll take pics of the sparkly oil filter when I change it.
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Deleted member 89374
You could just use the same oil as the factory fill: Pennzoil Euro LX 0W-30 of it's Quaker State doppelganger. It's actually really good stuff. There is a UOA somewhere here from a guy who ran it for 10K miles in a Alfa Romeo Giulia (Turbo) and had very little a wear metals and no shearing whatsoever. It's great stuff.
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