Kia K5 GT oil suggestions

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Just bought a new Kia K5 GT. Lots of fun, best car I've ever owned.

2.5L turbo making 290HP. Manual says 0w-30 and synthetic oil only, SN+ or SP or GF-6. Manual also says 6k normal service and 3k severe service change intervals.

I'll be doing 3-4k changes I think, and I'm going to use M1 10w-30 HM unless the board can convince me otherwise. I'm in Florida and have absolutely no need for 0w or 5w. I feel this little turbo will benefit from oil that's a touch thicker.

let the opinions fly...
 
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Usually Kia has a chart showing different acceptable oil grades, 10w30 being one of them. If that's the case I'd surely run a 10w30 in Florida in a turbo car. Nice and shear stable.

Is that the case here or is 0w30 the only option given?
 
Valvoline Advanced 5W30 is the best "Walmart" oil I have ever used. the past few years - nothing comes close.

Is the M1 still A3 high HTHS? I might wait till after wear- in to run that maybe 15-20K
I know these big fours can be very noisy - the A3 could help there.

Let your factory sump go at least 2K miles before you dump it.
 
Usually Kia has a chart showing different acceptable oil grades, 10w30 being one of them. If that's the case I'd surely run a 10w30 in Florida in a turbo car. Nice and shear stable.

Is that the case here or is 0w30 the only option given?
Only option listed in the manual's temp chart is 0w-30. It does specify shorter change intervals for non-synthetic oils, including semi-syn.
 
Valvoline Advanced 5W30 is the best "Walmart" oil I have ever used. the past few years - nothing comes close.

Is the M1 still A3 high HTHS? I might wait till after wear- in to run that maybe 15-20K
I know these big fours can be very noisy - the A3 could help there.

Let your factory sump go at least 2K miles before you dump it.
pulled the data sheet (updated 2-2021) and the M1 HM 10w-30 is still AECA A3/B3 and API SP with a HTHS of (used to be 3.5) not listed on current sheet. I have submitted the question via the web form.

and I plan to change the oil at 3k intervals. so I'll dump it at 3k
 
The recommendation of a 0W30 seems to promote a specific oil. Wonder what they had in mind?
That 0W recommendation is region and climate dependent - nothing to do with performance per se.

Again "Synthetic" isnt a spec, I wish car makers would stop that particular nonsense.

I would of course run a "synthetic" on modern high output engines, as I buy oils by performance both measured and perceived
and my above rec is advertised as "fully synthetic"
 
pulled the data sheet (updated 2-2021) and the M1 HM 10w-30 is still AECA A3/B3 and API SP with a HTHS of (used to be 3.5) not listed on current sheet. I have submitted the question via the web form.

and I plan to change the oil at 3k intervals. so I'll dump it at 3k

Why on earth would you dump full syn at 3k, or even 5k? Is this car going to be tracked?
 
Why on earth would you dump full syn at 3k, or even 5k? Is this car going to be tracked?
Did you read my initial post where the manual says 6k for regular service and 3k for severe service and I'm in the severe category per what I read in the manual? I'm around dusty dirt roads and I like to use my right foot when traffic allows. These factory recommendations for OCI are with the recommended 0w-30

Do you know something I don't about this engine?
 
....and I plan to change the oil at 3k intervals. so I'll dump it at 3k

I wish everyone would change their oil more often than necessary. I work in the O&G Industry and I want to get back to the Boom times...haha

BTW, what is the advantage to running HM oil in a newer engine with less than 100K miles?
 
Yes familiar with Kia/Hyundai according to their manuals almost anybody who actually drives the car is under severe service. They've never been stellar at oil recommendations, at least now they are recommending full syn that is a fairly recent development but they are still recommending "conventional" length OCI's. Ridiculous.

If you can wear out any name brand synthetic in 3k other than tracking the car I'd love to see the UOA. I understand protecting your warranty but that is overkill. Not your fault then.
 
Based on UOA?

Can you elaborate with supporting evidence just so that others don’t think you are just giving an opinion.
It is my professional, well considered, opinion.
UOA don't tell the whole story, but I have one or two posted on our previous 2017 crosstrek
that I was extending the OCI to 9K miles from the factory recommended 6K.
The UOA showed much better than Universal ave for that engine - even with the OCI extended 50%.
Plus perceived engine response and torque was improved and fuel mileage as expected.
 
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Did you read my initial post where the manual says 6k for regular service and 3k for severe service and I'm in the severe category per what I read in the manual? I'm around dusty dirt roads and I like to use my right foot when traffic allows. These factory recommendations for OCI are with the recommended 0w-30

Do you know something I don't about this engine?
I'll jump in here too; Its not a pile on though. I'm even exited for you with this cool car! :)

I realise you are wanting to keep this baby healthy and it is a high output engine, but a good oil will certainly go longer than 3K.
I would get that break-in oil out at 2k then try to go 5K.
The oil will tell you when it is toast with engine racket and loss of smoothness in operation and fuel stench.

Know that across The first couple OCi the oil will get beat up bad by the wear- in process.
-Ken
 
Yes familiar with Kia/Hyundai according to their manuals almost anybody who actually drives the car is under severe service. They've never been stellar at oil recommendations, at least now they are recommending full syn that is a fairly recent development but they are still recommending "conventional" length OCI's. Ridiculous.

If you can wear out any name brand synthetic in 3k other than tracking the car I'd love to see the UOA. I understand protecting your warranty but that is overkill. Not your fault then.
I suspect it's more about fuel dilution than "wearing out" the oil. I'll run a UOA on the 2nd change and see what's what.
 
I wish everyone would change their oil more often than necessary. I work in the O&G Industry and I want to get back to the Boom times...haha

BTW, what is the advantage to running HM oil in a newer engine with less than 100K miles?
I'm not running it because it's "high mileage" oil. I have been running this oil for years because it's a thick 30 grade instead of a Resource Conserving 30 grade that's really just barely above a 20 grade for thickness. This M1 oil also has a higher HTHS than many other 30 grade oils on the shelf today. Viscosity at 100C is 12 cst, most 30s are closer to 10.

Basically that bottom end is under massive load when the boost comes on, and you have to allow for some fuel dilution from the GDI. At least I do.
 
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