Keep or Sell my 2008 Crown Vic?

Literally the best car ever made, because of Ford's striving to make the highest quality car they could for the use case of police intercept cruiser. Unfortunately for them (and the car), that proved to not be the most profitable way to sell cars to cops.
 
My Vic is still on the same plugs it came with when I bought it at 117,000 miles. I don't know when they were installed, but it runs like a new car. It passed the smog test yesterday. I re-registered it for another two years.
 
I second whoever said the A/C accumulator is the source of your leak. On that generation, they made the accumulator out of aluminum then covered it with a foam-lined hard plastic shroud. I assume to keep road grime off it, since it's mounted low on the passenger front frame rail. Unfortunately, accumulators naturally sweat during operation, and this foam lined shell would hold that moisture and rot out the accumulator from the bottom.

I ran in to this exact issue with my Marauder. The replacement units are made of steel, and don't require the shroud. Cheap part and an easy fix.

I also vote keep it. I sold my Marauder at 230k miles and it was just like your car: flawless. No leaks, no rattles, everything worked perfectly. The only reason I sold it was the fuel mileage and my inability to keep a car for more than 2 years out of pure boredom.
 
Well, that's nice to say, but for people who like that kind of big car, just what does one purchase to replace it? The choices are mighty thin. Even Chevy stopped making the Impala, which is a foot shorter and 6 inches narrower.

There is plenty of room in back seat of say a Hyundai Sonata That's the budget choice, Toyota Avalon, etc. There are plenty of good reason why they stopped making these behemoths. Of course you can't buy any of the cars I mentioned as Police surplus dirt cheap-the BITOG favorite ways to do things.
 
I second whoever said the A/C accumulator is the source of your leak. On that generation, they made the accumulator out of aluminum then covered it with a foam-lined hard plastic shroud. I assume to keep road grime off it, since it's mounted low on the passenger front frame rail. Unfortunately, accumulators naturally sweat during operation, and this foam lined shell would hold that moisture and rot out the accumulator from the bottom.

I ran in to this exact issue with my Marauder. The replacement units are made of steel, and don't require the shroud. Cheap part and an easy fix.

I also vote keep it. I sold my Marauder at 230k miles and it was just like your car: flawless. No leaks, no rattles, everything worked perfectly. The only reason I sold it was the fuel mileage and my inability to keep a car for more than 2 years out of pure boredom.
Apologies for not replying sooner. This is very good to know. If the problem returns I'll be sure to mention it to my mechanic. Thank you!
 
There is plenty of room in back seat of say a Hyundai Sonata That's the budget choice, Toyota Avalon, etc. There are plenty of good reason why they stopped making these behemoths. Of course you can't buy any of the cars I mentioned as Police surplus dirt cheap-the BITOG favorite ways to do things.
It's called being frugal. Avoiding debt. A long, long time ago in the era of the dinosaurs, frugality was considered a virtue.

Thanks for your help, everyone!
 
It's called being frugal. Avoiding debt. A long, long time ago in the era of the dinosaurs, frugality was considered a virtue.

Thanks for your help, everyone!
Then somebody figured out (me) that's life's too short and why should I leave my assets to my children? Take frugality to the garbage can....
 
I sold a 2009 this past year. It was nearing 400,000 miles. Yours has a ton of life left. I replaced my a/c / heat blend door actuator too. It was a pain, but doing it a second time would go a lot quicker. I would think you could get it done for way less than $1,000. I would think even a dealer would be less. Maybe you priced a dealer. I can’t remember.

I always used 5w30 and used Redline transmission fluid.
 
Have you ever replaced the intake manifold? It's really the only weak spot on that car. On my 2003 Grand Marquis
I replaced it twice. The only other problem I really had was the trans stumbled at about 40 mph.
Valvoline Max Life synthetic trans fluid cured that.
 
Then somebody figured out (me) that's life's too short and why should I leave my assets to my children? Take frugality to the garbage can....
Life is too short...to short to blow good money on cars that could be enjoyed elsewhere!

Lucky for me, I live life outside of my commute to work and therefore have no desire to spend money on it.
 
There is plenty of room in back seat of say a Hyundai Sonata That's the budget choice, Toyota Avalon, etc. There are plenty of good reason why they stopped making these behemoths. Of course you can't buy any of the cars I mentioned as Police surplus dirt cheap-the BITOG favorite ways to do things.
Derailing threads...

Lady doesn't trust mechanics and doesn't turn wrenches. Why the heck would she want to pay more for transverse complexity featuring a recurring, 60k mile timing belt, timebomb with less cabin room, a much smaller trunk and a worse ride?
 
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My 2010 has 206k on it with no issues other than the rust that is inevitable here in MN. Pretty solid car given the miles.

I just put the summer tires back on, but with new steel wheels off eBay and some cloned TPMS sensors. They look great, but the left front fender sure doesn’t... but I have a replacement waiting to go on it.

I’m considering selling it, but it won’t pull a lot of money unless I fix the spots of rust (no rust through). Then again, the Charger can draw a lot more if I sell it instead. I might switch up and sell the Charger, keep using the big white CVPI for a while and send my 2019 Ram back after the lease ends in a couple of months. There are a few options for me, but it’s nice knowing that the Ford is a safe choice, given how durable and reliable it’s been. 🙂

Like a lot of responses here, I’d keep it, especially since you’re located in my other hometown of Phoenix... no rust (but that sun sure bakes those interiors). 🌞
 
Derailing threads...

Lady doesn't trust mechanics and doesn't turn wrenches. Why the heck would she want to pay more for transverse complexity featuring a recurring, 60k mile timing belt, timebomb with less cabin room, a much smaller trunk and a worse ride?
Some of us have moved on from the dinosaurs of yesteryear. There are a lot of good automobiles made in the last 10 years or so. Of course-let's all gather around the VIC, join hands and sing "Kumbaya".
 
No car with any age on it is without maintenance costs and issues. The Panther is one of the THE longest lasting and robust chassis in operation; they are easily 400k mile cars if well cared for, with minimal investments. The BDA and the AC accumulator are the costly issues with these cars; other issues are known, but they're cheap and quick to fix, so no big deal. I've had three Panthers (one Vic, tow MGMs) and I miss them (accidents took them out of service). I've personally fixed the BDA myself; it's time consuming but not horrible, but if one is not inclined with tools then the task can be daunting. My vote is to fix the ol' girl and motor on!
 
No car with any age on it is without maintenance costs and issues. The Panther is one of the THE longest lasting and robust chassis in operation; they are easily 400k mile cars if well cared for, with minimal investments. The BDA and the AC accumulator are the costly issues with these cars; other issues are known, but they're cheap and quick to fix, so no big deal. I've had three Panthers (one Vic, tow MGMs) and I miss them (accidents took them out of service). I've personally fixed the BDA myself; it's time consuming but not horrible, but if one is not inclined with tools then the task can be daunting. My vote is to fix the ol' girl and motor on!
dnewton3, thank you for chiming in! I've decided to pretty much keep it until the wheels fall off. The A/C is staying cold. Hopefully all it needed was a simple freon recharge.

I'd like to ask if you have an opinion on this gadget? It's claimed to be an end-run around a broken blend door actuator. It installs under the hood; no dash removal necessary. I don't understand how it works or IF it works. Does it sound like it could work or is it snake oil?
Easy Fix Blend Door and Actuator Repair Kit
 
If you're in Arizona and it's been owned out there the whole time, it should be pretty much rust free, it's been well maintenance and you like it keep it, $500-1000 is a pretty average visit to a mechanic these days anyways.
 
It's called being frugal. Avoiding debt. A long, long time ago in the era of the dinosaurs, frugality was considered a virtue.

Thanks for your help, everyone!
I have 2 old cars a 2000 and a 2007 (both on my signature). I would cheerfully buy a new car if I found something that really appealed to me - but what can you get today, an I4 turbo in many nicer cars, a wonky transmission (a dual clutch or a CVT - there are very few manual transmissions left), no spare tire, no engine oil dip stick, and complicated electronics. I suppose I am a Luddite but I like it that way.

I'm not sure what I'd buy if either car was written off in a crash. A low miles Crown Vic maybe!
 
i would keep that car! in your climate the body should be next to perfect rust wise.
if its been as well maintained as you say the car is good for another 200000 miles .
even if you put $1000 bucks in it every six months that is only a couple payments on a new car.
Drive on !
 
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