K24 and 10k OCIs

[TomYoung]

They last a long time yes. But burn a lot of oil too.

Not in my experience with several k24s run 200k and farther. But definitely not with 10k changes

 

[Spring Break '92]

My '12 CRV has 275K miles and I have done every interval from 5K to almost 10K, and used every weight between 0W20 and 10W30, HM and regular, and all kinds of additives. I have used Castrol Edge, Castrol GTX blend, GTX FS, M1 AFE/EP, PP, PUP, and I think I used Amsoil once or twice. 80% highway miles. I usually add a quart over the course of an OCI upwards of 10K miles. In my experience, Castrol Edge never had me adding oil. I just recently used HP EC 30 for two consecutive OCI's and now I am on 0W20 M1 EP and going to go for 10K, then do another OCI with the same oil and do very first analysis for this particular vehicle. I am wondering if an ATF analysis would be worth doing.

 

[cammyfive79]

I'll probably end up running (after the salvo of VRP OCIs) HPL No VII Euro 5w30 and change every 5k miles.

 

[Bullwinkle007]

I’m doing a few relatively short OCIs of VRP on my low mileage TSX with the K24 and 5 speed auto but am thinking down the road to hopefully doing 10k intervals. I don’t drive the car hard really and it’s my daily driver that will see 75-80% highway miles and trips of at least 8 miles to work 4 days a week and pleasure driving on weekends of longer distances. Naturally aspirated with no direct injection and used in a zillion cars over the decade or more it was in production, I assume 10k with a stout oil (HPL, PUP, etc) would be no problem but since I assume more than a few members here have this engine in use, I wanted to ask.

When doing an obligatory search it seemed that much higher mileage cars burn a bit, but that’s definitely not the case for me.

These engines don’t care what you put in them. I had one and I ran Mobil 1 0/40. The euro manual shows run whatever you want according to your climate.

 

[Spring Break '92]

These engines don’t care what you put in them. I had one and I ran Mobil 1 0/40. The euro manual shows run whatever you want according to your climate.

I'm about to switch to the Mag 1 FS 10W30, which actually is quite thin for its grade. I decided just to look into on a whim, before buying a case of HPL PPCMO or caving and buying Amsoil SS - with my opinion of Mag 1 for the past 20 years or more that I have known of the brand as just being some backwater small brand that you find at a place like Big Lots. I know differently now though.

https://mag1.com/products/34/pds/

From what I can find, it's probably a Group III base oil. I am sure it's good for at least a 7500 mile interval with a Fram Endurance filter every other change.

 

[SimpleSyrup]

I'm about to switch to the Mag 1 FS 10W30, which actually is quite thin for its grade. I decided just to look into on a whim, before buying a case of HPL PPCMO or caving and buying Amsoil SS - with my opinion of Mag 1 for the past 20 years or more that I have known of the brand as just being some backwater small brand that you find at a place like Big Lots. I know differently now though.

https://mag1.com/products/34/pds/

From what I can find, it's probably a Group III base oil. I am sure it's good for at least a 7500 mile interval with a Fram Endurance filter every other change.

I appreciate how much detail they have on their website. I've seen this at random hardware stores. Fleet Farm type places. Always a super good price. I needed a quart of cheap synth 5w-30 for a generator. Paid maybe $3 for it recently.

 

[Spring Break '92]

I appreciate how much detail they have on their website. I've seen this at random hardware stores. Fleet Farm type places. Always a super good price. I needed a quart of cheap synth 5w-30 for a generator. Paid maybe $3 for it recently.

Yep, you see it at places like that. Tractor Supply and feed & seed type stores. I found 5 quart jugs on Zoro.com for $25 on sale, but $3/quart is a steal.

 

[Astro_Guy]

I decided just to look into on a whim, before buying a case of HPL PPCMO or

C'mon man - you know you want to do it. What's stopping you?

 

[hrv]

Not in my experience with several k24s run 200k and farther. But definitely not with 10k changes

I changed mine at around 7000 miles and had 368000 on my 07 Accord with no issues at all...K24 was a great engine.. I wich I had that in my 21 HRV... The 1.8 is aslo agood engine but the K24 in my opinion is better...more power...

 

[K24Z7&M20AFXS]

It's a great way to turn your engine into an oil burner. The K24's tend to burn significant amounts of oil when they get older and the ones that see long OCI's are almost always the worst offenders.

2012 Si with a 300k miles K24 here.. might "perhaps" burn a cup of oil per OCI.. always followed Maintenance Minder until now with Redlune HP, AMSoil SS and more recently PUP. Now, i change it every spring but i put more or less 1000 miles per summer on it so...

However, i have a coworker with an Accord that is a heavy oil burner.. i think the oil rings a cooked with extra long OCI and the cheapest supply of bulk dyno juice..

YMMV but your choice of oil and weight will influence i do think..

 

[TomYoung]

I changed mine at around 7000 miles and had 368000 on my 07 Accord with no issues at all...K24 was a great engine.. I wich I had that in my 21 HRV... The 1.8 is aslo agood engine but the K24 in my opinion is better...more power...

I think that the newer, smaller Honda engines have a power advantage. The K24 brings incredible durability and reliability to the table.

 

[Spring Break '92]

I think that the newer, smaller Honda engines have a power advantage. The K24 brings incredible durability and reliability to the table.

I can only reference the fuel dilution of the L15 turbo engines - which may or may not have been corrected - but if you address the flaws of the K24, they will be my go-to Honda power plant.

 

[Spring Break '92]

Extractors work very well on the K24 and make the oil change quick, easy and cheap.

Huh??? I tried this before and at least the setup I have does not allow my smallest tube to get through the dipstick port past the valve cover. I became convinced it just wasn't possible on the K24.....please tell me more.

 

[Danh]

Huh??? I tried this before and at least the setup I have does not allow my smallest tube to get through the dipstick port past the valve cover. I became convinced it just wasn't possible on the K24.....please tell me more.

I use the smaller tube from a Griot’s extractor I bought a number of years ago. It’s able to remove essentially all oil in the sump (I do a conventional drain every other OCI). Maybe your K24 is of a different vintage?

I also have a 2025 CRV hybrid with the 2.0 engine and this tube was too large. But I found that a Pella extractor (the spherical one) has a smaller tube that works on this engine and may work on yours.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Huh??? I tried this before and at least the setup I have does not allow my smallest tube to get through the dipstick port past the valve cover. I became convinced it just wasn't possible on the K24.....please tell me more.

I've had great luck with the MityVac smaller tube on K24 engines. Get the oil hot.
I use the dip stick length as a guide for the proper tube depth.

Good luck.

 

[Spring Break '92]

I've had great luck with the MityVac smaller tube on K24 engines. Get the oil hot.

Lucky you, you got one of the K24 engines with an aluminum intake manifold. I imagine you have VTC on both cams, is that correct?

 

[TomYoung]

I can only reference the fuel dilution of the L15 turbo engines - which may or may not have been corrected - but if you address the flaws of the K24, they will be my go-to Honda power plant.

What flaws are we talking about. The engine is one of the all time best.

 

[Spring Break '92]

What flaws are we talking about. The engine is one of the all time best.

Oh but nothing in this world is perfect. Rattling VTC actuators, failing timing chain tensioners, stretched timing chains, premature exhaust cam lobe wear, gunked up VTEC and VTC strainers, and stuck piston rings. Pretty much all caused by people doing 10K oil change intervals dictated by the maintenance minder and not keeping their oil topped up. Really comes down to 0W20 being the specified grade.

 

[supton]

Ours (2003 CRV) seems to have arrested its cam wear on 5W30 and cut oil consumption too. I think it was getting 5W20 for its first 160 or 170k, 3 to 8k (maybe a couple at 10k+), and was using a quart over its 5k OCI. Still using a bit at 190k but it's no spring chicken. Might have been better on 5W30 and 10k OCI's with highway travel; or 5W20 for suburb runs at 5k. Who knows. It's 20 years old and in a couple more something will rust through.

Has a rattle at cold start now, takes a couple seconds before it starts in. Then rattles for several seconds before dying down (might still be there but not as bad). No idea what that is.

 

[K24Z7&M20AFXS]

Likely your valves clearances needs to be a adjusted!