JX75 / Kawasaki Engine - Carb emulsion tube screw stripped

[JHZR2]

Enough said. Tried to remove it, even with a lot of force on it the screwdriver cammed out. Busted the brass screw. I obviously got it out and cleaned, but I’m kind of concerned about the issue. I’m sure I can snug it back in.

I’d like to order the part but I can’t seem to find that jet screw or whatever it is called. The parts diagrams seem to show that emulsion tube and the screw as a single part.

Any recommmendations? I guess maybe I could get a Chinese counterfeit and the screw would be the same.

 

[fantastic]

maybe the tube seats after installation? I really have no idea but I feel your pain. Those Kawasaki's must of used some HD loctite & I've stripped one off the mower too. I just ended up getting a whole China made carburetor. As long as you fine tune them they can be an excellent buy. I bought a "Kipa" branded carb & I was able to tune it in just fine. Unfortunately, the prices you pay for some of those OEM engine parts to rebuild doesn't make sense after a cost analysis.

https://www.fix.com/parts/engine/kawasaki/fix8982095/nozzle-main-49121-7018/
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=kipa

 

[spasm3]

Take a thin cutting wheel on a dremel or angle grinder and cut a new slot 90 degrees to the damaged screw slot. the jet orifice looks ok.

 

[Trav]

That will go in with no problem but removing it again without cutting a slot as spasm3 suggest would be a bit of a bugger. Clean any burrs with a small file and use a little blue loctite.

 

[SHOZ]

Look for new carbs made in Japan on eBay or Amazon.

 

[JHZR2]

Look for new carbs made in Japan on eBay or Amazon.

The rest of the carb is clean and perfect, despite the fuel that came out.

Take a thin cutting wheel on a dremel or angle grinder and cut a new slot 90 degrees to the damaged screw slot. the jet orifice looks ok.

Yes the orifice looks fine. I have a tiny wheel on my dremel. I’ll try to cut that. I’m a bit concerned that removing too much will leave me with nothin to gram onto though…

 

[Cujet]

That looks to be the main jet.

 

[Eddie]

Just buy a new carb and save yourself a lot of frustration. I know this through first hand experience with ~ 5 engines. Ed

 

[JHZR2]

Just buy a new carb and save yourself a lot of frustration. I know this through first hand experience with ~ 5 engines. Ed

What frustration?

I got the screw out, and when I put it all back together, opened the fuel valve, and it literally started first pull. Granted I need to verify full hot performance. Carb was very clean.

Look for new carbs made in Japan on eBay or Amazon.

I may for parts, but this one is generally fine. I serviced it because it will bog down or stall when I engage the blade clutch when full hot. Never when cold. Runs beautifully otherwise.

That will go in with no problem but removing it again without cutting a slot as spasm3 suggest would be a bit of a bugger. Clean any burrs with a small file and use a little blue loctite.

I gave it a try removing it at increasingly higher torques, and it grabbed enough to get out each time. I then added some blue loctite, and didn’t make it super tight. What’s the worst thst can happen? I figure an ez out of similar item. I like the idea of a slot, but got the willies thinking about how much material is left once I make even a small slot.

 

[jeepman3071]

Take a thin cutting wheel on a dremel or angle grinder and cut a new slot 90 degrees to the damaged screw slot. the jet orifice looks ok.

This +1

I have successfully done this a few times, just go really easy with the dremel tool.

Fixing the original carb is the way to go over buying a cheap Chinese carb for these engines.

 

[JHZR2]

This +1

I have successfully done this a few times, just go really easy with the dremel tool.

Fixing the original carb is the way to go over buying a cheap Chinese carb for these engines.

I may get one of those Chinese carbs just to swap parts. Like that stupid screw.

 

[spasm3]

I may get one of those Chinese carbs just to swap parts. Like that stupid screw.

If you have a large drill bit set, see you can find a jet from a junk carb that screws into your carb. Maybe even a local mower shop. Use drill bits to find the size of your existing jet, and drill the other jet to match.

 

[DemoFly]

FJ180V the main jet is #M151342
FC150V the main jet is #M131703 and it's screwed on the side of the emulsion tube tunnel exactly as pictured in your diagram. The only thing removable from the emulsion tube tunnel on an FC150V Mikuni is the emulsion tube itself.

I could be totally wrong but I believe your JX75 is an FJ180V. The FC150V was very early model JX75s. They do look very similar.

I personally don't even attempt to remove a jet like this unless I have a gunsmithing/hollow bore/jet screwdriver. The tips are fatter and much less prone to stripping.

 

[JHZR2]

FJ180V the main jet is #M151342
FC150V the main jet is #M131703 and it's screwed on the side of the emulsion tube tunnel exactly as pictured in your diagram. The only thing removable from the emulsion tube tunnel on an FC150V Mikuni is the emulsion tube itself.

I could be totally wrong but I believe your JX75 is an FJ180V. The FC150V was very early model JX75s. They do look very similar.

I personally don't even attempt to remove a jet like this unless I have a gunsmithing/hollow bore/jet screwdriver. The tips are fatter and much less prone to stripping.

The sticker shows it to be a 150.

The videos I saw online about cleaning the jx75 carb also showed the jet separate from the tube. I can’t find a parts diagram that shows that though.

 

[SHOZ]

Here's the service manual. Ha well some of it....



This looks to be the parts you can still get from JD for it.

ARIMain - WEINGARTZ

Find parts for your john deere carburetor repair kit: engine fc150v gu10118 with our free parts lookup tool! Search easy-to-use diagrams and enjoy same-day shipping on standard John Deere parts orders.

www.weingartz.com

 

[DemoFly]

For that engine code I get these.

Kawasaki 92063-2336 JET-MAIN,#62.5

Kawasaki 92063-2336 JET-MAIN,#62.5

www.scagmowerparts.com

Kawasaki #60 Main Jet 92063-2350 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Kawasaki #60 Main Jet 92063-2350 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[The_Eric]

I may for parts, but this one is generally fine. I serviced it because it will bog down or stall when I engage the blade clutch when full hot. Never when cold. Runs beautifully otherwise.

Have you checked/adjusted valve clearance? Tight valves, especially exhausts will act up as the engine gets hot.

 

[JHZR2]

Have you checked/adjusted valve clearance? Tight valves, especially exhausts will act up as the engine gets hot.

Not yet. We only bought this towards the end of last season. Worth a look I’m sure, regardless. That said, running today, there was no stalling..l

 

[JHZR2]

For that engine code I get these.

Kawasaki 92063-2336 JET-MAIN,#62.5

Kawasaki 92063-2336 JET-MAIN,#62.5

www.scagmowerparts.com

Kawasaki #60 Main Jet 92063-2350 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Kawasaki #60 Main Jet 92063-2350 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Thanks! What’s the difference between a #60 and #62.5 jet? I assume orifice size, but what are the ramifications for changing it?

Though it. Any not matter. Those numbers are wrong. The one linked looks like this:

But the one I pulled was the same diameter throughout…

 

[DemoFly]

I need more pictures of the carbs guts, but if you already put the mower back together who cares. There's only 2 mikunis that ever came on a JD kawi push mower. The newer style that's on the FJ180V and the older style that is on the FC150V. It's likely they put the newer style on late model FC150V engines, as it is superior.

Educated guesses are you either broke the threads off the emulsion tube (which would look exactly like a main jet once removed) or you have the newer mikuni.