Just did my first oil change by myself...

Status
Not open for further replies.
quote:

Originally posted by racer12306:

congrats on changing the oil for the first time. as you now see, its not too hard (except for those darn 2.4 frontier filters) and you will save a lot of money over time. i use synthetic oil and it costs me $27 w/filter. the same thing at a quick lube place costs >$55. instant $28 savings each time. i currently average ~25000 miles per year, so thats $140 saved for the year plus you get the piece of mind knowing exactly what you did, instead of trusting what someone else says they did on your expensive vehicle.


Yeah, I figured I'll save about $17 per change using TropArtic 5W-30 with a ST filter. At 30K miles/year at 5K oci, that's about 6 changes @ $17 each = $102/year. Plus I still have the wife's minvan, and that will be even more savings, I think!
 
quote:

Originally posted by BlazerLT:
Also remember to only put in the amount of oil stated in your manual, do NOT go by the dipstick.

If I go to the full level on my 4.3L dipstick on my Blazer, I will overfill it by almost a quart and will cause lifter clattering issues seeing the crank slaps the oil and introduces air into the oil system which migrates up into the lifters.

Trust me on this, ONLY the amount specified in the manual.


Yes, I was very careful about that...3-3/4 quarts exactly with the filter, just like the manual said!
smile.gif
 
Washers, Plugs, smauschers, shplugs, forget ALL of that..

Get a Fumoto Valve.

You kiddin me?
lol.gif


What's with the plugs and washers, I cannot be the only Fumoto user here he11, I heard about em HERE first! I think I threw away my 17MM wrench when I got a Fumoto valve..

They have a deal on em, Lou, they're $23 shipped. Highly recommend it. Turn the valve, drain the oil, close the valve, no more fishing expeditions, magnets, washers, ahhh, my dream comes true.

Just in time to go to 10K OCI!
lol.gif
 
I have never been impressed with the fumuto valve.

The threaded portion would stick too far up into the oil pan and not allow all of the oil out of the pan.

And that fraction of an inch remaining in the pan is the horrible stuff.

**** even with just the plug removed I still put a small amount of oil down the fill tube with the plug out to get all of the crap out of the pan.
 
Shhhh..ok, ok, I didn't tell that part, I did whack about three-eighths off the end..Then a couple of washers to get the valve where I wanted it.

There IS that. When I put this car up a foot in the air so I can get under it, I suppose the oil drains out anyway.. It's a simple enough problem. But then, like I said, I went to long OCI anyway. To me, with this car, it's worth it..
 
On a lot of vehicles there is a paint mark on the plug and oil pan that tells you how much to torque the plug past hand tight. My F-150 has a mark and it is barely a 1/4 turn past hand tight. Same on my 1998 Cavalier, hand tight then 1/2 turn. Most newer vehicles with copper/aluminum seal washers you torque in the in-lbs range because so little torque is needed. Also the washers last a very long time as you are only putting enough torque to seal and not deform them to the point you put a gouge in them.
 
quote:

Originally posted by toocrazy2yoo:
Shhhh..ok, ok, I didn't tell that part, I did whack about three-eighths off the end..Then a couple of washers to get the valve where I wanted it.

There IS that. When I put this car up a foot in the air so I can get under it, I suppose the oil drains out anyway.. It's a simple enough problem. But then, like I said, I went to long OCI anyway. To me, with this car, it's worth it..


With the alterations you have proposed I think the valve would be a good thing.
cheers.gif
 
Well, just use the washers to bring it out a little further. I took the dremel to it, and used a nut of the same thread and size to clean it up. It's in deeply enough, positioned just so, and I tightened it but good. 8000 miles later, it hasn't budged..

But like I said, it was pointless unless I got back to 3K OCI. Except for my UOA I'm doing in a bit, it's handy for that. But for someone that changes a lot, man, ya can't beat it.

Word of caution however. If you do one of these, it DOES stick out an inch or so, maybe a little less. If it becomes the low point under the car, it's a bad idea. Whack some debris or bottom the car, and this thing could break off, dumping your oil. In my case the frame is lower (closer to the ground that is) than the plug as I suspect it is on most cars, but it wouldn't hurt to check.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top